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#21
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Dust control
On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 16:14:11 GMT, "Nicholas
O. Lindan" wrote: a teaspoon of dishwashing detergent in a bucket of water and wipe the walls down and let them dry so there is fine film of detergent on the wall -- this will keep the static electricity on the walls down. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio March 18, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick, Just when I think I know everything! This must be what they mean by the expression 'consulting engineer'... regards, --le ________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. voice: 416-686-0326 email: net: www.heylloyd.com ________________________________ -- |
#22
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Dust control
On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 16:11:33 GMT, "Tom
Gardner" wrote: I'll paint the cement floor with epoxy based paint. March 18, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick, Yet another area in which I've had experience. The epoxy coating will be tough and long lasting, but when it begins to fail it will be a mess. For a cement floor, I'd suggest some sort of sealer followed by a top-coat of floor wax. The sealer should be some sort of water-based glue-like substance. A good product for the job, which I've used, is called WeldBond. It looks like thick white glue, and it dilutes with water. To seal cement, dilute it quite thin and runny and pour on the floor. Squeegee it all over and make sure there are no puddles or areas where the stuff is on the surface. Work it in, let it soak in while you keep it moving, let it dry and repeat as many times as your l'il heart desires. After it's all dry, use a good grade of floor wax a few times until the surface of the floor is slick and non-absorbent. The wax is very easy to renew, and strips off easily if necessary (should go years ...) In areas of high stress, like in front of a processing sink or anywhere water might drip often (like under my print-drying area, where I sluice distilled water down the prints where they hang), it's easy to renew the sealer before re-waxing. Nothing will flake or peel or make any type of mess with this method. It's also cheaper than epoxy (lots cheaper) and does not entail breathing anything weird when applying it. regards, --le ________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. voice: 416-686-0326 email: net: www.heylloyd.com ________________________________ -- |
#23
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Dust control
On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 12:04:33 -0500, Lloyd Erlick Lloyd at @the-wire.
dot com wrote: In my place I need a humidifier in the winter and a dehumidifier in the summer. The readout tells me what the situation is, and how to set the machines as the outside temperature changes. regards, --le ________________________________ Do you have an 'ideal' humidity level that you aim for? Paul |
#24
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Dust control
In article ,
Lloyd Erlick Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote: On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 10:30:15 -0500, "Greg \"Blank\" - Lizard King." wrote: As for spiders who knows they creep me out. March 18, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick, They only do that becasue you should leave them alone. They eat other insects. For creepy, millipedes are hard to beat. Spiders eat them before they run across your face while you're asleep in bed ... regards, --le ________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. voice: 416-686-0326 email: net: www.heylloyd.com ________________________________ Let me go on public record saying I don't usually molest spiders, if they willingly don't annoy me I let them be. On the other hand I try to catch them and humanely place them outside. That way the millipedes and centipedes get caught outside my house -- The things we hate most in life often turn out to be a mirror image of ourselves. Better not to hate. Findmedirectly - "infoatgregblankphoto.com" |
#25
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Dust control
In article ,
Lloyd Erlick Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote: but anyone with a roach or flea problem should be motivated enough to do the research! I sure was ... & to think you started from "Scratch" ;-D -- The things we hate most in life often turn out to be a mirror image of ourselves. Better not to hate. Findmedirectly - "infoatgregblankphoto.com" |
#26
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Dust control
John spake thus:
On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 10:44:17 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote: Tom Gardner spake thus: It seems I am plagued with dust no matter what I do. When I built the new darkroom, I caulked every drywall seam, floor and ceiling joints, plumbing entrances and exits, filtered the air intake, don't smoke in the room and I still have a huge dust and spider problem. I can't figure how the critters get in yet alone what they eat. This room is almost air tight! I'm considering an ionic air thingy...thoughts? Yes: give up. Embrace the dust. All attempts at resistance are futile. Oh pooh ! Anyone can get rid of dust ! All you have to do is to run your hot water line into a fire extinguisher/sprinkler and let it bathe your darkroom in steaming hot water prior to your usage of said room. Hey, maybe you're onto something he the Really Wet Darkroom. In which all dry materials (negatives, paper) are pre-loaded into waterproof cassettes. The air continually sprayed with a fine mist of water. Dust wouldn't stand a chance! -- Second, Scientologists are like computers trying to run an emulation of another computer. It can be done, but the performance is awful. Scientologists are trying to run a bad copy of LRH. - Keith Henson, from alt.religion.scientology |
#27
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Dust control
"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote in message link.net... "Tom Gardner" wrote I built a filter holder that uses a "High Efficiency" accordion style element that is mounted on the ceiling/wall that has a booster duct fan on the 6" duct coming from the AC/furnace. There is a switch on this fan. On the floor, under the sink area is a vent that dumps into the other part of the basement. There is a standard fiberglass furnace filter on this. Well, that _should_ keep dust down... have positive pressure...kinda'. How about I block the air dump partially or fully and increase the positive pressure? I don't want to run the booster fan continuously and rarely run it at all, only when it gets hot in there, no problem with it being too cold. If you run the fan continuously, as an experiment, does this take care of the dust problem? Does the darkroom ever get back-winded? If the room is unoccupied does dust accumulate? I would imagine the room 'breathes' through the exit filter and dust trapped in the exit filter may then go back into the darkroom -- this is pure speculation. But, what happens if the exit filter is blocked? A good coating with gloss enamel helps, obviously. Do you get dust sticking to the walls? If so then a teaspoon of dishwashing detergent in a bucket of water and wipe the walls down and let them dry so there is fine film of detergent on the wall -- this will keep the static electricity on the walls down. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com Fstop timer - http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm Great Idea! I think I found the biggest culprit. The dryer in the other part of the basement had the vent installed by HH Greg recently and they didn't fasten the ductwork to the base of the dryer correctly and it spews dryer exhaust into the basement under the dryer aimed right at the hallway to the darkroom. I found by accident when I opened the darkroom door into the well lighted hall I could see a cloud of dust get sucked into the darkroom. I fixed the vent duct and am cleaning the rest of the basement. I'd like to get to the point of not ever spotting prints...I'm dreaming aren't I? |
#28
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Dust control
"Lloyd Erlick" Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote in message ... On Sat, 18 Mar 2006 16:11:33 GMT, "Tom Gardner" wrote: I'll paint the cement floor with epoxy based paint. March 18, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick, Yet another area in which I've had experience. The epoxy coating will be tough and long lasting, but when it begins to fail it will be a mess. For a cement floor, I'd suggest some sort of sealer followed by a top-coat of floor wax. The sealer should be some sort of water-based glue-like substance. A good product for the job, which I've used, is called WeldBond. It looks like thick white glue, and it dilutes with water. To seal cement, dilute it quite thin and runny and pour on the floor. Squeegee it all over and make sure there are no puddles or areas where the stuff is on the surface. Work it in, let it soak in while you keep it moving, let it dry and repeat as many times as your l'il heart desires. After it's all dry, use a good grade of floor wax a few times until the surface of the floor is slick and non-absorbent. The wax is very easy to renew, and strips off easily if necessary (should go years ...) In areas of high stress, like in front of a processing sink or anywhere water might drip often (like under my print-drying area, where I sluice distilled water down the prints where they hang), it's easy to renew the sealer before re-waxing. Nothing will flake or peel or make any type of mess with this method. It's also cheaper than epoxy (lots cheaper) and does not entail breathing anything weird when applying it. regards, --le Cool! Great point about epoxy paint, I forgot what a bitch it is. |
#29
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Dust control
Various:
I'll paint the cement floor with epoxy based paint. sealer followed by a top-coat of floor wax. Cool! Great point about epoxy paint, I forgot what a bitch it is. When I had a basement darkroom I painted the floor with a thin-ish latex paint sold just for concrete floors. I never had any problem with paint flakes. The paint soon wore down from the peaks/sandgrains in the cement but stayed in the 'valleys', the resulting surface was semi-porous but smooth and cleanable. IB if moisture from the cement [and basement cement always has moisture] can't evaporate then it pools under the paint and spalls the cement and a thin layer of cement attached to a flake of paint comes loose. The people who had the house before me painted the garage floor with epoxy. Lasted about 1/2 a winter. It is a mess now and I think the only thing to do is to paint it with epoxy again when I sell the house so it looks presentable. Another very good coating for cement is Waterlox. You will need lots of ventilation, though. Waterlox is a tung-oil varnish used for gymnasium floors. My folks did the wood floor in their kitchen with a coat of it and it is still good after 40+ years. Lots of variations: the marine undercoat is a superb primer coat over new/weathered/painted wood. Expensive. Toxic. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com Fstop timer - http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm |
#30
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Dust control
In article . net,
"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote: Various: I'll paint the cement floor with epoxy based paint. sealer followed by a top-coat of floor wax. Cool! Great point about epoxy paint, I forgot what a bitch it is. When I had a basement darkroom I painted the floor with a thin-ish latex paint sold just for concrete floors. I never had any problem with paint flakes. The paint soon wore down from the peaks/sandgrains in the cement but stayed in the 'valleys', the resulting surface was semi-porous but smooth and cleanable. IB if moisture from the cement [and basement cement always has moisture] can't evaporate then it pools under the paint and spalls the cement and a thin layer of cement attached to a flake of paint comes loose. The people who had the house before me painted the garage floor with epoxy. Lasted about 1/2 a winter. It is a mess now and I think the only thing to do is to paint it with epoxy again when I sell the house so it looks presentable. You could do what what I did recently for the house I just bought, they had stuck indoor carpet on the basement floor, which their cats peed on, I ripped it out the day I took possession of the home. I then spent about two months scraping and eventually using an angle grinder on the floor to remove stuck on carpet backing. I painted the the floor with latex floor paint, most places are ok, but a few spots have come undone as a result of the problem you state....the sealer would have been a good idea in those areas. U. G .L is also probably an expensive permanent fix. Another very good coating for cement is Waterlox. You will need lots of ventilation, though. Waterlox is a tung-oil varnish used for gymnasium floors. My folks did the wood floor in their kitchen with a coat of it and it is still good after 40+ years. Lots of variations: the marine undercoat is a superb primer coat over new/weathered/painted wood. Expensive. Toxic. -- The things we hate most in life often turn out to be a mirror image of ourselves. Better not to hate. Findmedirectly - "infoatgregblankphoto.com" |
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