How would you repair this?

On 12/9/2009 3:06 PM Cheesehead spake thus:

My old Kodak 2-D back has split, so there is a serious problem
developing.
See a pic of the issue at
http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/k2d.jpg

Would you
a) wood putty the corner
b) epoxy the corner
c) cut out the corner and put in a piece
or
d) something else

Wow; that looks almost exactly like the back to my ROC Universal camera.
Pretty much the same layout, with the brass pins and all.

So evidently that pin has broken through the wood. This makes using any
kind of filler kind of iffy. I was going to say that putty (even strong
epoxy filler) just plain wouldn't work, but looking at the picture
again, it seems to me that you might be able to get away with it.

What I'd do is to try to lay a piece of metal hardware in the space left
by the broken wood; say a small strip of steel, bent to go around the
pin and embedded in the filler.

I recently repaired a window frame (double-hung sash from a house) using
wood filler. I used some stuff called PC-Woody which worked very well.
Did basically the same thing the the entire corner of the window was
missing, so I embedded an angle bracket and some threaded rod into the
remaining solid wood, and the repair was rock-solid.

The trick is going to be to get just the right amount of goop into the
damaged area. I'd probably make a little form to go on both sides, so at
least the sides of the repair will be straight and level with the sides
of the back. Just use two small pieces of wood and put waxed paper on
the inside so the epoxy won't stick to them. Drill a hole the size of
the pin in the longer piece and fit the pin into it. Fill it as level as
you can (the stuff is the consistency of peanut butter). After it sets,
you can chisel, file or sand it level with the wood.

The other choice would be to fit in a piece of wood. This could result
in a very strong and unobtrusive repair, but it would be a lot more work.

Oh, and you ought to try to color the epoxy to match somewhat. You can
either mix in some dark sawdust, or use some solid color pigment of some
kind (probably oil-soluble rather than water-soluble). I'd experiment on
a scrap piece of wood first to try to get a good match. If you match it
carefully enough, the repair should be difficult to detect.

Good luck.


--
I am a Canadian who was born and raised in The Netherlands. I live on
Planet Earth on a spot of land called Canada. We have noisy neighbours.

- harvested from Usenet

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
s.com...
On 12/9/2009 3:06 PM Cheesehead spake thus:

My old Kodak 2-D back has split, so there is a serious
problem
developing.
See a pic of the issue at
http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/k2d.jpg

Would you
a) wood putty the corner
b) epoxy the corner
c) cut out the corner and put in a piece
or
d) something else

Wow; that looks almost exactly like the back to my ROC
Universal camera. Pretty much the same layout, with the
brass pins and all.

So evidently that pin has broken through the wood. This
makes using any kind of filler kind of iffy. I was going
to say that putty (even strong epoxy filler) just plain
wouldn't work, but looking at the picture again, it seems
to me that you might be able to get away with it.

What I'd do is to try to lay a piece of metal hardware in
the space left by the broken wood; say a small strip of
steel, bent to go around the pin and embedded in the
filler.

I recently repaired a window frame (double-hung sash from
a house) using wood filler. I used some stuff called
PC-Woody which worked very well. Did basically the same
thing the the entire corner of the window was missing,
so I embedded an angle bracket and some threaded rod into
the remaining solid wood, and the repair was rock-solid.

The trick is going to be to get just the right amount of
goop into the damaged area. I'd probably make a little
form to go on both sides, so at least the sides of the
repair will be straight and level with the sides of the
back. Just use two small pieces of wood and put waxed
paper on the inside so the epoxy won't stick to them.
Drill a hole the size of the pin in the longer piece and
fit the pin into it. Fill it as level as you can (the
stuff is the consistency of peanut butter). After it sets,
you can chisel, file or sand it level with the wood.

The other choice would be to fit in a piece of wood. This
could result in a very strong and unobtrusive repair, but
it would be a lot more work.

Oh, and you ought to try to color the epoxy to match
somewhat. You can either mix in some dark sawdust, or use
some solid color pigment of some kind (probably
oil-soluble rather than water-soluble). I'd experiment on
a scrap piece of wood first to try to get a good match. If
you match it carefully enough, the repair should be
difficult to detect.

Good luck.

I would second the use of a wood inlay. Use hardwood.
cut out the splintered part and any rotting wood around it
and fill the area in with a bit of hardwood cut
approximately to shape. I am not an expert on glue but would
use the strongest possible. When the patch is in place you
can sand it to be an exact fit and drill a pilot hole for
the pin so its a fairly tight fit. Then, before putting the
pin in permanently refinish the area to the best match you
can get. Then install the pin with some glue. That should
work and won't split again.
This is about the same technique that works on rotted
screw holes. You drill out the hole and fill it with a
hardwood peg.
The 2D is a strongly made camera and worth some effort
to fix.

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

On 09-12-11 6:18 , Richard Knoppow wrote:
"David wrote in message
s.com...
On 12/9/2009 3:06 PM Cheesehead spake thus:

My old Kodak 2-D back has split, so there is a serious
problem
developing.
See a pic of the issue at
http://www.brendemuehl.net/images/k2d.jpg

Would you
a) wood putty the corner
b) epoxy the corner
c) cut out the corner and put in a piece
or
d) something else

Wow; that looks almost exactly like the back to my ROC
Universal camera. Pretty much the same layout, with the
brass pins and all.

So evidently that pin has broken through the wood. This
makes using any kind of filler kind of iffy. I was going
to say that putty (even strong epoxy filler) just plain
wouldn't work, but looking at the picture again, it seems
to me that you might be able to get away with it.

What I'd do is to try to lay a piece of metal hardware in
the space left by the broken wood; say a small strip of
steel, bent to go around the pin and embedded in the
filler.

I recently repaired a window frame (double-hung sash from
a house) using wood filler. I used some stuff called
PC-Woody which worked very well. Did basically the same
thing the the entire corner of the window was missing,
so I embedded an angle bracket and some threaded rod into
the remaining solid wood, and the repair was rock-solid.

The trick is going to be to get just the right amount of
goop into the damaged area. I'd probably make a little
form to go on both sides, so at least the sides of the
repair will be straight and level with the sides of the
back. Just use two small pieces of wood and put waxed
paper on the inside so the epoxy won't stick to them.
Drill a hole the size of the pin in the longer piece and
fit the pin into it. Fill it as level as you can (the
stuff is the consistency of peanut butter). After it sets,
you can chisel, file or sand it level with the wood.

The other choice would be to fit in a piece of wood. This
could result in a very strong and unobtrusive repair, but
it would be a lot more work.

Oh, and you ought to try to color the epoxy to match
somewhat. You can either mix in some dark sawdust, or use
some solid color pigment of some kind (probably
oil-soluble rather than water-soluble). I'd experiment on
a scrap piece of wood first to try to get a good match. If
you match it carefully enough, the repair should be
difficult to detect.

Good luck.

I would second the use of a wood inlay. Use hardwood.
cut out the splintered part and any rotting wood around it
and fill the area in with a bit of hardwood cut
approximately to shape. I am not an expert on glue but would
use the strongest possible. When the patch is in place you

Epoxy is great with hardwood repairs of the sort mentioned, IMO.

Make the inlay, patch a snug fit if possible. Let the epoxy set for 24
hours before working it.

There may be more modern glues, but the above works fine.

can sand it to be an exact fit and drill a pilot hole for
the pin so its a fairly tight fit. Then, before putting the
pin in permanently refinish the area to the best match you
can get. Then install the pin with some glue. That should
work and won't split again.
This is about the same technique that works on rotted
screw holes. You drill out the hole and fill it with a
hardwood peg.
The 2D is a strongly made camera and worth some effort
to fix.

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA