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#1
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
Hey Everyone!!
So I bought a camera about 2 weeks ago.. I sold Digital Cameras for a little while, when I was working for Samsung, and I know that I'm no expert, but nonetheless, I can still take some pretty good pictures.. Anyways the camera I just bought is a 35mm Camera, which- apart from having those disposable Kodaks for camping trips in elementary -I've never really used. I was just wondering if you guys could maybe help me out a little.. Do I have a decent camera? Am I missing equipement? I'd love to soak in as much information as I can get!! So this is what I've got: - Ricoh KR-10 body - Yashika CS-22 Auto flash - Vivitar MC Tele-Converter 2X-22 (What is this anyways??) - Ricoh XR Rikenon 1:2 50mm s - Sigma Zoom - Phototec 1 A 52mm lens - Vanguard 52mm Polarizer lens - Sigma Achromatic Macro lens .. among that he gave me stuff to clean the lenses, some batteries for the camera, a carrying case, and cases for some lenses.. Can anyone help me?? It's very much appreciated!! Alex |
#2
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
Alexandria07 wrote:
Do I have a decent camera? If it is in good working order, a Ricoh SLR should be a decent camera. Am I missing equipment? No, all you need to get started is the camera, the 50mm lens and a roll of film. You may have to buy a new battery for the light meter, and hope that the old battery hasn't made a mess. The first thing to do is to familiarize yourself with the camera. Make sure you know how to load film, and also how to rewind the film when you finish the roll. (There is a manual available on the net at www.butkus.org/chinon/ricoh/kr-10/kr-10.htm. People who have used 35mm SLRs before don't need a manual because it is basically the same as a whole bunch of cameras.) I would suggest forgetting the flash and filters and the zoom lens for the first few rolls. Get some 100 speed negative film and shoot outdoors with the 50mm lens. - Vivitar MC Tele-Converter 2X-22 (What is this anyways??) It goes between you lens and the camera. It will turn a 50mm f/2 lens (like your Rikenon) into an 100mm f/4 lens. The combination might make a passable portrait lens. Peter. -- |
#3
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
"Alexandria07" wrote in message ... Hey Everyone!! So I bought a camera about 2 weeks ago.. I sold Digital Cameras for a little while, when I was working for Samsung, and I know that I'm no expert, but nonetheless, I can still take some pretty good pictures.. Anyways the camera I just bought is a 35mm Camera, which- apart from having those disposable Kodaks for camping trips in elementary -I've never really used. I was just wondering if you guys could maybe help me out a little.. Do I have a decent camera? Am I missing equipement? I'd love to soak in as much information as I can get!! So this is what I've got: - Ricoh KR-10 body - Yashika CS-22 Auto flash - Vivitar MC Tele-Converter 2X-22 (What is this anyways??) - Ricoh XR Rikenon 1:2 50mm s - Sigma Zoom - Phototec 1 A 52mm lens - Vanguard 52mm Polarizer lens - Sigma Achromatic Macro lens . among that he gave me stuff to clean the lenses, some batteries for the camera, a carrying case, and cases for some lenses.. Can anyone help me?? It's very much appreciated!! Alex Welcome to the wonderful world of film! You'll never go back to "the Dark Side" (digital)! On a scale of 1 to 10, the Ricoh is probably a 7 or 8. Download AND READ! the instruction manual, get a cheap roll of 100 or 200 speed film, and go outside. The easy outdoor exposure system is the "Sunny 16" rule: Set the shutter speed equal to the film speed- for ISO 100 speed film set the shutter to 1/125. For bright sunny scenes, set the f-stop to 16. For partly cloudy skies, use f/11. For open shade, use f/8. For deep shade, set the f-stop to 5.6. There are three exposure controls: the film speed- whatever film type you buy, the shutter speed- how long the shutter is open, and the f-stop- the amount of light that gets through the lens. The higher the film speed, the larger the film grain (fewer and bigger pixels for digital users!). The faster the shutter speed, the better the motion stopping. The smaller the lens opening (larger f-number) the more depth of field you have- more stuff is in focus near to far away. If you change the shutter speed to a faster speed, and change the f-stop to a larger lens opening (smaller number), the exposure stays the same, but you can stop motion more. Conversely, it you go the other way (slower shutter speed, smaller lens opening-bigger number), you get more depth of field- more near to far away focus. The 2X tele-converter goes between the camera and lens, and doubles the focal length. But it cuts the light in half. The easiest way to handle this is to divide the film speed by 2: ISO 200 becomes ISO 100. The polarizer filter is used to cut glare. Aim the camera at a window or body of water with sun shining on it and rotate the filter. At some point the glare from the sun will be minimized. The Phototec 1A 52mm lens is, I assume, a filter, probably a skylight filter that will improve the look of sky with clouds. It it commonly used to protect the lens. The Macro lens is used for closeup photos. You don't specify the focal length of the zoom lens. 50mm is considered a normal lens. 100mm would be two power, 200mm would be four power telephoto. 25mm would be one-half power wide angle. A zoom lens is more convenient, but usually not as sharp or as bright as a prime (single focal length) lens. Flash photography: Absolute Important Consideration: The shutter in an SLR is a focal plane type. It has two curtains. One curtain opens and after an interval, the second curtain closes. If the shutter speed is fast enough, the second curtain will start closing before the first is fully open. The film will be exposed as a moving slit from one side to the other. When you shoot with a flash, the shutter speed MUST be set slow enough so that the entire film is being exposed when the flash fires. The camera may have an "X" shutter speed; otherwise use 1/30 second as the shutter speed with strobe flash. The light from the flash falls off with distance from the flash. The further the flash is from the subject, the less light will reach the subject. An auto-flash should compensate for this light fall-off. The flash unit should have a chart on it telling you what f-stop to use for a particular film ISO speed, and what the maximum flash distance is. You don't say what the lens cleaning stuff is. If it is a liquid, trash it. The old fashioned 'breathe on the lens and wipe it with a lint-free cloth' works well. Hopefully this info is helpful to you. |
#4
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
K W Hart wrote:
You don't specify the focal length of the zoom lens. I would guess something like 75-150mm f/4 based on the vintage. At the teleconverter to this for 150-300mm f/6.3. |
#5
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
Alexandria07 wrote,on my timestamp of 14/03/2012 3:15 AM:
So this is what I've got: - Ricoh KR-10 body - Yashika CS-22 Auto flash - Vivitar MC Tele-Converter 2X-22 (What is this anyways??) - Ricoh XR Rikenon 1:2 50mm s - Sigma Zoom - Phototec 1 A 52mm lens - Vanguard 52mm Polarizer lens - Sigma Achromatic Macro lens . among that he gave me stuff to clean the lenses, some batteries for the camera, a carrying case, and cases for some lenses.. Can anyone help me?? It's very much appreciated!! Contrary to other recommendations here, I'd advise you to get some Fuji Xtra-400 film. It is widely available, scans into beautiful imagery and is nowadays the same if not better than most classic old 200 ISO films. Most of the advice you hear online is from past users of film who stopped using it 15 years ago and never progressed from that time. The film landscape nowadays is completely different from 3 years ago, let alone 15... Bear in mind that unlike digital cameras where the camera body is a big part of the imaging forming, with film cameras it's the film, the lens and you: the camera body is just a lens carrier and a black box with a shutter, whatever the make. Of course there are subtle differences but you'll learn about those later. As well, go to http://www.apug.org and have a look at some of the forums there. Make yourself a member, it's free and they don't spam. It is by far the best site for advice on film and its use. Although if you want to scan it into digital images, you'll have to ask advice somewhere else: the folks there are rabidly anti-digital in any form! I'm surprised how they even show their images online... :-) They have a sister site that allows digital discussions: http://www.dpug.org but I tend to stay away as it is also heavily populated by internet trolls and instant "experts" who claim all sorts of things about their "pro knowledge" without the slightest concrete proof of any of their claims. Much like the Usenet... Good luck and enjoy your purchase. And always remember: it's all about the photos, not the equipment. Cheers http://wizofoz2k.deviantart.com/ |
#6
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
Robert Coe wrote,on my timestamp of 14/03/2012 12:17 PM:
: thing. Ricoh's were a good little camera. I think some of them had a : verticle traveling shutter, which was used in some of the Nikon's if I'm : not mistaken. All of my film Nikons had a horizontal shutter, but the shutter on my wife's Nikkormat was vertical. From the F4 onwards they all became vertical. So was the FE2/FM2/FM3/F100. Good for flash, lousy for stability and vibration... Although the pro models - F4/F5/F6 - have dampened shutters that hardly ever cause any vibration issues. |
#7
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
Paul Furman wrote:
K W Hart wrote: You don't specify the focal length of the zoom lens. I would guess something like 75-150mm f/4 based on the vintage. At the teleconverter to this for 150-300mm f/6.3. f/8 surely with a 2x teleconverter? -- Alex Monro Exeter, UK Running on Linux (Kubuntu 10.04) |
#8
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
On 2012-03-14, Robert Coe wrote:
All of my film Nikons had a horizontal shutter, but the shutter on my wife's Nikkormat was vertical. Nikon F, F2 and F3/F3AF have horizontally running shutters. Nikon F4, F5 and F6 have vertically running shutters. The FA, FE/FE2, FM/FM2/FM2n and FM3a have vertically running shutters. As far as I'm aware the autofocus bodies have vertically running shutters. The older Nikkormats had horizontally running shutters, while the autoexposure models had vertically running shutters. Bud |
#9
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
William Hamblen writes:
On 2012-03-14, Robert Coe wrote: All of my film Nikons had a horizontal shutter, but the shutter on my wife's Nikkormat was vertical. Nikon F, F2 and F3/F3AF have horizontally running shutters. Nikon F4, F5 and F6 have vertically running shutters. The FA, FE/FE2, FM/FM2/FM2n and FM3a have vertically running shutters. As far as I'm aware the autofocus bodies have vertically running shutters. The older Nikkormats had horizontally running shutters, while the autoexposure models had vertically running shutters. I believe all the Nikkormats had vertical shutters. The Ft, which was quite early, is described as having a vertical shutter and 1/125 sec flash sync in multiple online sources, for example. I remember the FTN as having 1/125 sync as well, and I believe that was always a sign of a vertical shutter. -- David Dyer-Bennet, ; http://dd-b.net/ Snapshots: http://dd-b.net/dd-b/SnapshotAlbum/data/ Photos: http://dd-b.net/photography/gallery/ Dragaera: http://dragaera.info |
#10
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First time owner of a 35mm Camera
David Dyer-Bennet wrote:
I believe all the Nikkormats had vertical shutters. The Ft, which was quite early, is described as having a vertical shutter and 1/125 sec flash sync in multiple online sources, for example. I remember the FTN as having 1/125 sync as well, and I believe that was always a sign of a vertical shutter. Yes. I think the Ft was the first. It's predecssor was the Nikkorex F, which was made by Mamiya for Nikon. I believe the shutter was made by Copal. The Nikkormat Ftn, was an Ft with center weighted metering. This matched the metering of the Photomic Ftn finder on the F. The same shutter was used in all the Nikkormats (Ft, FTn, Ft2, Ft3) and an electronicaly timed version was used in the EL and EL2. If not the same, very similar shutters were used in the FM and FE. The cameras with curtain shutters (F/F2/F3) had a top flash sync of 1/90th. Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM My high blood pressure medicine reduces my midichlorian count. :-( |
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