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#1
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Shooting In Snow
Any tips for exposure when shooting on a snow covered mountain during the
daytime? For people shots I am thinking of using hotshoe flash, possibly with positive FEC (on Canon 20D). For scenery, I am thinking of using exposure bracketing and seeing what works best by looking at the histogram. However, I am interesting in any tips from people that have shot these types of scenes before. |
#2
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Shooting In Snow
"Jeremy" wrote in message ... Any tips for exposure when shooting on a snow covered mountain during the daytime? For people shots I am thinking of using hotshoe flash, possibly with positive FEC (on Canon 20D). For scenery, I am thinking of using exposure bracketing and seeing what works best by looking at the histogram. However, I am interesting in any tips from people that have shot these types of scenes before. With snow, the camera auto-exposure algorithm will meter for neutral gray and thus under-expose. You can compensate by boosting the exposure. |
#3
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Shooting In Snow
Jeremy wrote:
Any tips for exposure when shooting on a snow covered mountain during the daytime? For people shots I am thinking of using hotshoe flash, possibly with positive FEC (on Canon 20D). For scenery, I am thinking of using exposure bracketing and seeing what works best by looking at the histogram. However, I am interesting in any tips from people that have shot these types of scenes before. Snow is tough, and experience helps a lot. It appears you know enough to get it right. I would suggest shooting RAW in this situation to allow for some additional adjustment post exposure. Do it enough and you will get the "feel" for where you need be and you may decide RAW is not necessary. -- Joseph Meehan Dia 's Muire duit |
#4
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Shooting In Snow
Jeremy wrote:
Any tips for exposure when shooting on a snow covered mountain during the daytime? For people shots I am thinking of using hotshoe flash, possibly with positive FEC (on Canon 20D). For scenery, I am thinking of using exposure bracketing and seeing what works best by looking at the histogram. However, I am interesting in any tips from people that have shot these types of scenes before. If there's a lot of white in the scene you'll typically need to overexpose by + 1 to + 2 stops. The exact amount will depend on which metering mode you use, how much snow is in the frame (ie, how much is white vs mid-tone) and how bright the light so you'll want to shoot a couple (or bracket) at first and adjust after looking at the histogram. If you shot just the snow at the normal meter reading it would come out gray (mid-tone). So the more snow in the frame the more you have to adjust the meter reading. |
#5
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Shooting In Snow
"Jeremy" wrote in message
... Any tips for exposure when shooting on a snow covered mountain during the daytime? For people shots I am thinking of using hotshoe flash, possibly with positive FEC (on Canon 20D). For scenery, I am thinking of using exposure bracketing and seeing what works best by looking at the histogram. However, I am interesting in any tips from people that have shot these types of scenes before. Use mirror lock-up or you may cause an avalanche : ) John |
#6
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Shooting In Snow
A polariser filter will cut down snow glare-reflections and give a bluer
sky , if your shutter isnt real fast it will also help 1 stop to reduce light. |
#7
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Shooting In Snow
On 11/19/06 10:47 PM, "JohnR66" wrote:
Use mirror lock-up or you may cause an avalanche : ) John Once again, it depends on how much snow. :-) -- Rick http://fixupix.tripod.com/ http://www.backprint.com/cnypix |
#8
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Shooting In Snow
m Ransley wrote:
A polariser filter will cut down snow glare-reflections and give a bluer sky , if your shutter isnt real fast it will also help 1 stop to reduce light. Actually, you need to INCREASE exposure(!) beyond what your meter will think is correct. You DON'T want to reduce light...rather, the exact opposite. -- Images (Plus Snaps & Grabs) by Mark² at: www.pbase.com/markuson |
#9
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Shooting In Snow
"Jeremy" wrote:
Any tips for exposure when shooting on a snow covered mountain during the daytime? For people shots I am thinking of using hotshoe flash, possibly with positive FEC (on Canon 20D). For scenery, I am thinking of using exposure bracketing and seeing what works best by looking at the histogram. However, I am interesting in any tips from people that have shot these types of scenes before. Ignore the light meter, and use either a histogram or (best) a "blinking overexposure" LCD display. It doesn't make a lot of difference what the average light from a scene with snow in it is, set exposure to get the highlights just below clipping level. A light meter reading combined with a guess for exposure compensation is unlikely to be close, but use of a blinking overexposure display easily puts it within less than 1/3 of an fstop. However, people's faces may well show up basically in the shade (with not enough reflected light from the snow illuminating them, which will be far worse if the snow is all in back of them), which is not the best lighting if it is the people you want to stand out! One option is to reposition the people, which of course might not be at all possible. Another is to simply overexpose the snow, and let it blow out and lose detail, which may be acceptable in a few situations. But the best solution by far is to use a flash for fill light. The problems with using flash are typical. They recharge slowly, so you won't likely be able to fire off rapid sequences, and the flash will leave a reflection in the eyes and maybe other reflective surfaces (sunglasses are the most common offenders, but windows and painted surfaces are bad too). Fill light with flash works best for scenes where the snow is some distance from the subject where the light from the flash will not also increase the brightness of the snow. If the snow is relatively close, changing focal lengths to adjust the ratio of the camera to subject distance compared to the camera to snow distance can be dramatic. But for an object that is right in the snow, that won't work either... Using flash in snow country usually means bumping into the problem of cold batteries too. Bring enough spare batteries. (And if it is cold, don't throw away "dead" batteries either. Just save them for use in a warmer place, where the rest of the charge will still be available.) I do a significant amount of shooting in cold weather, so it was well worth it to locate a couple of Quantum lead-acid battery units. Each can power two flashes and with optical triggers I can actually use up to four flash units in two different positions. They are not as convenient as simply using alkalines in most circumstances. But they are much cheaper in places where freight costs make alkalines very expensive. And for an all day outing in the snow, where you might be shooting hundreds of shots, not having to stop and change batteries and not having extended charge times as they go slowly dead is well worth it. -- Floyd L. Davidson http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) |
#10
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Shooting In Snow
Jeremy wrote:
Any tips for exposure when shooting on a snow covered mountain during the daytime? For people shots I am thinking of using hotshoe flash, possibly with positive FEC (on Canon 20D). For scenery, I am thinking of using exposure bracketing and seeing what works best by looking at the histogram. However, I am interesting in any tips from people that have shot these types of scenes before. If it's any help, a friend who used to shoot snowboarding said they used a "5/50/500" rule for shooting in bright sunlight: f/5, 50 ISO, 1/500s. Compared to the "sunny-16" rule, that would be overexposing by about a stop... |
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