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How to measure ISO



 
 
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  #81  
Old November 6th 15, 08:29 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
nospam
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Posts: 24,165
Default How to measure ISO

In article , PeterN
wrote:

If you always do as nospam suggested then you will always record the
maximum amount of detail with the least noise.

That is a good general rule, not only for exposure, but I find it gives
me the best color accuracy.


that's not what you said in another post just minutes ago.


Do learn to read.


i did, long ago. if only you would.

explain yourself out of this one:

In article , PeterN
wrote:
On 11/4/2015 10:59 PM, nospam wrote:
In article , Eric Stevens
wrote:
As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me
little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned
out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows.


ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any
highlights.


Most good photographers expose for the subject matter. But then we don't
know about you, since we have not knowingly seen anything produced by you.





As with generalities, there are situations where variance is called for.


imagine that.

BTW A few years ago I remember stating that rule, and nospam was giving
all sorts of reasons why it was a stupid thing to do.


you remember incorrectly. or you're outright lying.


Yet more proof of your well known reputation or being confrontational.


prove it or admit you made it up.
  #82  
Old November 6th 15, 09:03 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
Savageduck[_3_]
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Posts: 16,487
Default How to measure ISO

On 2015-11-06 18:59:47 +0000, PeterN said:

On 11/5/2015 6:52 PM, Alan Browne wrote:

snip


For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and
HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for
outdoor if the subject permits.


That depends on your camera. IIRC for the best HDR each exposure should
be two stops apart. While some Canons will do that auto bracketing, my
Nikon will only bracket one stop. Therefore, five exposures are
required, unless I do a manual exposure compensation.


When shooting exposure brackets for HDR anywhere from 3 to 9 bracket
shots with 1 stop intervals will work for most Nikon DSLRs. What has to
be taken into account is the scene & subject matter, and the camera
being used, as the buffer can play role in mking that cpture
succesful, particulrly if you are working hand held. Using a tripod and
manually adjusting for each frame is something else altogether.
With my D300S a 5 or 7 - 1 stop - shot bracket works best for NIK HDR
Efex processing. My X-E2 only gives me 3 shot brackets up to 1EV.
However, Fujifilm has a few DR stretching tricks in their firmware,
those I have yet to become fully familiar with.

Then there is what Lightroom gives you for photo Merge to HDR. With LR
and RAW/DNG you can work an HDR without the intermediate shots. If you
have a 5 shot exposure bracket you can take your +2EV and your -2EV and
merge those to HDR which will return a DNG with a dynamic exposure
range of -10 to +10 rather than the standard -5 to +5.

Then using LR you have another option. You can forego capturing the
exposure bracket altogether and gain that same HDR exposure adjustment
range much better than with any of the single exposure pseudo-HDR
methods found in NIK or Photomatix.
Take your original imported RAW/DNG create a "Virtual Copy"(VC).
With either the VC or the original in the LR Develop module, move the
Exposure slider to +2, or +3.
Then with the other VC/original, move the Exposure slider to -2, or -3.
Select both of these and right-click - Photo Merge - HDR. Your result
is a DNG with all the benefits of an HDR without the nastiness of
overcooked glowing HDRs.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1295663/FileChute/screenshot_380.jpg

This also gives me a way to stretch my 3 shot 1EV Fuji X-E2 brackets,
by adjusting the -1EV shot to -3, and the +1EV to +3, then Merging all
three. That also works very well.



--
Regards,

Savageduck

  #83  
Old November 6th 15, 09:37 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
Alfred Molon[_4_]
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Posts: 2,591
Default How to measure ISO

In article , Eric Stevens
says...
As I have already described I have been
exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they
advised.


But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped
highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only
will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels.
--
Alfred Molon

Olympus E-series DSLRs and micro 4/3 forum at
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MyOlympus/
http://myolympus.org/ photo sharing site
  #84  
Old November 6th 15, 09:40 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
Alfred Molon[_4_]
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Posts: 2,591
Default How to measure ISO

In article , Alan Browne
says...
See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...03/LR---19.jpg

St Peters in the 'old town' of Geneva. Hand held D300. 1/50 sec at
f/6.3. Processed with LR.


Looks crappy.


A bit noisy on the walls, but otherwise very nice.
--
Alfred Molon

Olympus E-series DSLRs and micro 4/3 forum at
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MyOlympus/
http://myolympus.org/ photo sharing site
  #85  
Old November 6th 15, 10:35 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
nospam
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Posts: 24,165
Default How to measure ISO

In article , Alfred
Molon wrote:

As I have already described I have been
exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they
advised.


But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped
highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops.


definitely not.

1/2 a stop only
will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels.


no.
  #86  
Old November 6th 15, 10:57 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
Eric Stevens
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Posts: 13,611
Default How to measure ISO

On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 21:37:59 +0100, Alfred Molon
wrote:

In article , Eric Stevens
says...
As I have already described I have been
exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they
advised.


But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped
highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only
will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels.


See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...-7500601-2.jpg
and
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R--7500957.jpg

Both of these were taken hand-held with the D750 set on -1/2 EV.
--

Regards,

Eric Stevens
  #87  
Old November 6th 15, 11:14 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
Eric Stevens
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Posts: 13,611
Default How to measure ISO

On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 07:57:19 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote:

On 2015-11-05 22:23, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 18:52:56 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote:

On 2015-11-05 18:33, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 16:57:34 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote:

On 2015-11-05 02:42, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 22:59:42 -0500, nospam
wrote:

In article , Eric Stevens
wrote:

That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop
than overexpose by a stop.

Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to
minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate
some overexposure).

As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me
little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned
out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows.

ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any
highlights.

Why?

What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights?


He's generally right as one treats digital like slide film ("expose for
the highlights"). I shoot 2.3 - 2.5 stops down from HL for my a900.
For the 7D, 1.7.. 2 stops down. (using spot metering in both).

That said, sometimes clipped HL are necessary to get the subject nicely
and exposed.

My recent problems have been due either to bright clouds or inside
lighting in buildings. Also stained glass windows viewed from the
inside of of buildings.

Scene DR is too high to get it all in both cases. Digital is better
than slide film, but the difference from mid tone to highlight remains
relatively slim. On the plus side you have much more range from mid
tone to shadow with digital v. slide.

For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and
HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for
outdoor if the subject permits.


See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...03/LR---19.jpg

St Peters in the 'old town' of Geneva. Hand held D300. 1/50 sec at
f/6.3. Processed with LR.


Looks crappy. You want a smooth glow to the walls. Shoot for the wall,
shoot for the glass. Two separate exposures (absent fill light).


That looks about the way I remember it. I cited it as an example of
the ability of -1/2 EV to cope with highlights (in this case the sun
coming through the glass).

As far as the stonework is concerned (and another kind of highlight)
see https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/LR--6366.jpg
Once again a D300 shot. Hand held 1/13 at f/6.3. Same church, same
day.

Example: if the light outside hitting the glass is raw sunlight, then
you would expose for sunny-16. There is no way the interior walls are
anywhere close to sunny-16.

--

Regards,

Eric Stevens
  #88  
Old November 6th 15, 11:35 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
sid[_2_]
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Posts: 385
Default How to measure ISO

nospam wrote:

In article , Alfred
Molon wrote:

As I have already described I have been
exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they
advised.


But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped
highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops.


definitely not.


Well that would be the case if one was metering on the highlights

1/2 a stop only
will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels.


no.


Again, it depends on what your are metering from.

--
sid
  #89  
Old November 6th 15, 11:46 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
sid[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 385
Default How to measure ISO

Eric Stevens wrote:


As I have already described I have been
exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they
advised.


But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped
highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only
will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels.


See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...-7500601-2.jpg
and
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R--7500957.jpg

Both of these were taken hand-held with the D750 set on -1/2 EV.


Without stating what your are metering from and what type of metering your
are using neither of your posts have any real meaning. Pointing your camera
at different parts of the scene you want to photograph will indicate
different exposure values as will different metering methods for example
spot metering as opposed to centre weighted or evaluative etc.

--
sid
  #90  
Old November 7th 15, 12:08 AM posted to rec.photo.digital
Eric Stevens
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Posts: 13,611
Default How to measure ISO

On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 22:46:38 +0000, sid wrote:

Eric Stevens wrote:


As I have already described I have been
exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they
advised.

But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped
highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only
will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels.


See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...-7500601-2.jpg
and
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R--7500957.jpg

Both of these were taken hand-held with the D750 set on -1/2 EV.


Without stating what your are metering from and what type of metering your
are using neither of your posts have any real meaning. Pointing your camera
at different parts of the scene you want to photograph will indicate
different exposure values as will different metering methods for example
spot metering as opposed to centre weighted or evaluative etc.


I can't say for certain but I was probably using matrix metering.
Irrespective of the mode of metering I would have been checking both
the captured image and the histogram as I went.
--

Regards,

Eric Stevens
 




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