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#81
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How to measure ISO
In article , PeterN
wrote: If you always do as nospam suggested then you will always record the maximum amount of detail with the least noise. That is a good general rule, not only for exposure, but I find it gives me the best color accuracy. that's not what you said in another post just minutes ago. Do learn to read. i did, long ago. if only you would. explain yourself out of this one: In article , PeterN wrote: On 11/4/2015 10:59 PM, nospam wrote: In article , Eric Stevens wrote: As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows. ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Most good photographers expose for the subject matter. But then we don't know about you, since we have not knowingly seen anything produced by you. As with generalities, there are situations where variance is called for. imagine that. BTW A few years ago I remember stating that rule, and nospam was giving all sorts of reasons why it was a stupid thing to do. you remember incorrectly. or you're outright lying. Yet more proof of your well known reputation or being confrontational. prove it or admit you made it up. |
#82
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How to measure ISO
On 2015-11-06 18:59:47 +0000, PeterN said:
On 11/5/2015 6:52 PM, Alan Browne wrote: snip For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for outdoor if the subject permits. That depends on your camera. IIRC for the best HDR each exposure should be two stops apart. While some Canons will do that auto bracketing, my Nikon will only bracket one stop. Therefore, five exposures are required, unless I do a manual exposure compensation. When shooting exposure brackets for HDR anywhere from 3 to 9 bracket shots with 1 stop intervals will work for most Nikon DSLRs. What has to be taken into account is the scene & subject matter, and the camera being used, as the buffer can play role in mking that cpture succesful, particulrly if you are working hand held. Using a tripod and manually adjusting for each frame is something else altogether. With my D300S a 5 or 7 - 1 stop - shot bracket works best for NIK HDR Efex processing. My X-E2 only gives me 3 shot brackets up to 1EV. However, Fujifilm has a few DR stretching tricks in their firmware, those I have yet to become fully familiar with. Then there is what Lightroom gives you for photo Merge to HDR. With LR and RAW/DNG you can work an HDR without the intermediate shots. If you have a 5 shot exposure bracket you can take your +2EV and your -2EV and merge those to HDR which will return a DNG with a dynamic exposure range of -10 to +10 rather than the standard -5 to +5. Then using LR you have another option. You can forego capturing the exposure bracket altogether and gain that same HDR exposure adjustment range much better than with any of the single exposure pseudo-HDR methods found in NIK or Photomatix. Take your original imported RAW/DNG create a "Virtual Copy"(VC). With either the VC or the original in the LR Develop module, move the Exposure slider to +2, or +3. Then with the other VC/original, move the Exposure slider to -2, or -3. Select both of these and right-click - Photo Merge - HDR. Your result is a DNG with all the benefits of an HDR without the nastiness of overcooked glowing HDRs. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1295663/FileChute/screenshot_380.jpg This also gives me a way to stretch my 3 shot 1EV Fuji X-E2 brackets, by adjusting the -1EV shot to -3, and the +1EV to +3, then Merging all three. That also works very well. -- Regards, Savageduck |
#83
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How to measure ISO
In article , Eric Stevens
says... As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. -- Alfred Molon Olympus E-series DSLRs and micro 4/3 forum at http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MyOlympus/ http://myolympus.org/ photo sharing site |
#84
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How to measure ISO
In article , Alan Browne
says... See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...03/LR---19.jpg St Peters in the 'old town' of Geneva. Hand held D300. 1/50 sec at f/6.3. Processed with LR. Looks crappy. A bit noisy on the walls, but otherwise very nice. -- Alfred Molon Olympus E-series DSLRs and micro 4/3 forum at http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MyOlympus/ http://myolympus.org/ photo sharing site |
#85
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How to measure ISO
In article , Alfred
Molon wrote: As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. definitely not. 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. no. |
#86
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How to measure ISO
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 21:37:59 +0100, Alfred Molon
wrote: In article , Eric Stevens says... As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...-7500601-2.jpg and https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R--7500957.jpg Both of these were taken hand-held with the D750 set on -1/2 EV. -- Regards, Eric Stevens |
#87
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How to measure ISO
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 07:57:19 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote: On 2015-11-05 22:23, Eric Stevens wrote: On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 18:52:56 -0500, Alan Browne wrote: On 2015-11-05 18:33, Eric Stevens wrote: On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 16:57:34 -0500, Alan Browne wrote: On 2015-11-05 02:42, Eric Stevens wrote: On Wed, 04 Nov 2015 22:59:42 -0500, nospam wrote: In article , Eric Stevens wrote: That said, I'd rather underexpose by half a stop than overexpose by a stop. Well, there is a general recommendation to expose to the right, to minimise noise (also taking into account that cameras nowadays tolerate some overexposure). As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows. ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Why? What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights? He's generally right as one treats digital like slide film ("expose for the highlights"). I shoot 2.3 - 2.5 stops down from HL for my a900. For the 7D, 1.7.. 2 stops down. (using spot metering in both). That said, sometimes clipped HL are necessary to get the subject nicely and exposed. My recent problems have been due either to bright clouds or inside lighting in buildings. Also stained glass windows viewed from the inside of of buildings. Scene DR is too high to get it all in both cases. Digital is better than slide film, but the difference from mid tone to highlight remains relatively slim. On the plus side you have much more range from mid tone to shadow with digital v. slide. For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for outdoor if the subject permits. See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...03/LR---19.jpg St Peters in the 'old town' of Geneva. Hand held D300. 1/50 sec at f/6.3. Processed with LR. Looks crappy. You want a smooth glow to the walls. Shoot for the wall, shoot for the glass. Two separate exposures (absent fill light). That looks about the way I remember it. I cited it as an example of the ability of -1/2 EV to cope with highlights (in this case the sun coming through the glass). As far as the stonework is concerned (and another kind of highlight) see https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...3/LR--6366.jpg Once again a D300 shot. Hand held 1/13 at f/6.3. Same church, same day. Example: if the light outside hitting the glass is raw sunlight, then you would expose for sunny-16. There is no way the interior walls are anywhere close to sunny-16. -- Regards, Eric Stevens |
#88
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How to measure ISO
nospam wrote:
In article , Alfred Molon wrote: As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. definitely not. Well that would be the case if one was metering on the highlights 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. no. Again, it depends on what your are metering from. -- sid |
#89
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How to measure ISO
Eric Stevens wrote:
As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...-7500601-2.jpg and https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R--7500957.jpg Both of these were taken hand-held with the D750 set on -1/2 EV. Without stating what your are metering from and what type of metering your are using neither of your posts have any real meaning. Pointing your camera at different parts of the scene you want to photograph will indicate different exposure values as will different metering methods for example spot metering as opposed to centre weighted or evaluative etc. -- sid |
#90
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How to measure ISO
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 22:46:38 +0000, sid wrote:
Eric Stevens wrote: As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...-7500601-2.jpg and https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R--7500957.jpg Both of these were taken hand-held with the D750 set on -1/2 EV. Without stating what your are metering from and what type of metering your are using neither of your posts have any real meaning. Pointing your camera at different parts of the scene you want to photograph will indicate different exposure values as will different metering methods for example spot metering as opposed to centre weighted or evaluative etc. I can't say for certain but I was probably using matrix metering. Irrespective of the mode of metering I would have been checking both the captured image and the histogram as I went. -- Regards, Eric Stevens |
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