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#91
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How to measure ISO
Eric Stevens wrote:
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 22:46:38 +0000, sid wrote: Eric Stevens wrote: As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...-7500601-2.jpg and https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R--7500957.jpg Both of these were taken hand-held with the D750 set on -1/2 EV. Without stating what your are metering from and what type of metering your are using neither of your posts have any real meaning. Pointing your camera at different parts of the scene you want to photograph will indicate different exposure values as will different metering methods for example spot metering as opposed to centre weighted or evaluative etc. I can't say for certain but I was probably using matrix metering. Irrespective of the mode of metering I would have been checking both the captured image and the histogram as I went. I downloaded the second of the two. Not bad on a technical basis. There are lots of "blown highlights" in the stained glass area, but the significance is that it doesn't matter! Who cares if there is visible detail or not, the whole point is to have bright colors. That is exactly what you got! The shot was made using center weighted metering, with EC set to -1. And Aperture Priority, so the shutter speed of 1/15 was set automatically. The only complaint I would have is the use of ISO 1250 and a wide open lens that isn't that good wide open. ISO 1600 or even as high as 3200 would have been virtually the same, and would have allowed stopping that lens down to a sharper aperture. That is almost knit picking though, and is only important if you are going to make a large print. Of course if a large print is the objective, then it is overexposed a bit too much too, as that lost detail would be visible in a large print. -- Floyd L. Davidson http://www.apaflo.com/ Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) |
#93
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How to measure ISO
On 11/6/2015 3:03 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On 2015-11-06 18:59:47 +0000, PeterN said: On 11/5/2015 6:52 PM, Alan Browne wrote: snip For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for outdoor if the subject permits. That depends on your camera. IIRC for the best HDR each exposure should be two stops apart. While some Canons will do that auto bracketing, my Nikon will only bracket one stop. Therefore, five exposures are required, unless I do a manual exposure compensation. When shooting exposure brackets for HDR anywhere from 3 to 9 bracket shots with 1 stop intervals will work for most Nikon DSLRs. What has to be taken into account is the scene & subject matter, and the camera being used, as the buffer can play role in mking that cpture succesful, particulrly if you are working hand held. Using a tripod and manually adjusting for each frame is something else altogether. With my D300S a 5 or 7 - 1 stop - shot bracket works best for NIK HDR Efex processing. My X-E2 only gives me 3 shot brackets up to 1EV. However, Fujifilm has a few DR stretching tricks in their firmware, those I have yet to become fully familiar with. Then there is what Lightroom gives you for photo Merge to HDR. With LR and RAW/DNG you can work an HDR without the intermediate shots. If you have a 5 shot exposure bracket you can take your +2EV and your -2EV and merge those to HDR which will return a DNG with a dynamic exposure range of -10 to +10 rather than the standard -5 to +5. Then using LR you have another option. You can forego capturing the exposure bracket altogether and gain that same HDR exposure adjustment range much better than with any of the single exposure pseudo-HDR methods found in NIK or Photomatix. I can agree as to NIK. I have no experience with Photomatrix. Take your original imported RAW/DNG create a "Virtual Copy"(VC). With either the VC or the original in the LR Develop module, move the Exposure slider to +2, or +3. Then with the other VC/original, move the Exposure slider to -2, or -3. Select both of these and right-click - Photo Merge - HDR. Your result is a DNG with all the benefits of an HDR without the nastiness of overcooked glowing HDRs. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1295663/FileChute/screenshot_380.jpg This also gives me a way to stretch my 3 shot 1EV Fuji X-E2 brackets, by adjusting the -1EV shot to -3, and the +1EV to +3, then Merging all three. That also works very well. There are indeed many ways of achieving an HDR effect. I just use the one that's most comfortable for me at the time. e.g. If I was shooting a moving critter I would use a different method that for a still object with the camera on a tripod. -- PeterN |
#94
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How to measure ISO
On 11/6/2015 5:35 PM, sid wrote:
nospam wrote: In article , Alfred Molon wrote: As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. definitely not. Well that would be the case if one was metering on the highlights 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. no. Again, it depends on what your are metering from. Did you expect a helpful answer, given in a non-confrontational manner. -- PeterN |
#95
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How to measure ISO
On 2015-11-07 01:58:41 +0000, PeterN said:
On 11/6/2015 3:03 PM, Savageduck wrote: On 2015-11-06 18:59:47 +0000, PeterN said: On 11/5/2015 6:52 PM, Alan Browne wrote: snip For things like stained glass inside buildings I'd suggest a tripod and HDR methods. 3 images is probably enough in most cases. Same for outdoor if the subject permits. That depends on your camera. IIRC for the best HDR each exposure should be two stops apart. While some Canons will do that auto bracketing, my Nikon will only bracket one stop. Therefore, five exposures are required, unless I do a manual exposure compensation. When shooting exposure brackets for HDR anywhere from 3 to 9 bracket shots with 1 stop intervals will work for most Nikon DSLRs. What has to be taken into account is the scene & subject matter, and the camera being used, as the buffer can play role in mking that cpture succesful, particulrly if you are working hand held. Using a tripod and manually adjusting for each frame is something else altogether. With my D300S a 5 or 7 - 1 stop - shot bracket works best for NIK HDR Efex processing. My X-E2 only gives me 3 shot brackets up to 1EV. However, Fujifilm has a few DR stretching tricks in their firmware, those I have yet to become fully familiar with. Then there is what Lightroom gives you for photo Merge to HDR. With LR and RAW/DNG you can work an HDR without the intermediate shots. If you have a 5 shot exposure bracket you can take your +2EV and your -2EV and merge those to HDR which will return a DNG with a dynamic exposure range of -10 to +10 rather than the standard -5 to +5. Then using LR you have another option. You can forego capturing the exposure bracket altogether and gain that same HDR exposure adjustment range much better than with any of the single exposure pseudo-HDR methods found in NIK or Photomatix. I can agree as to NIK. I have no experience with Photomatrix. P-h-o-t-o-m-a-t-i-x, not matrix. Take your original imported RAW/DNG create a "Virtual Copy"(VC). With either the VC or the original in the LR Develop module, move the Exposure slider to +2, or +3. Then with the other VC/original, move the Exposure slider to -2, or -3. Select both of these and right-click - Photo Merge - HDR. Your result is a DNG with all the benefits of an HDR without the nastiness of overcooked glowing HDRs. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1295663/FileChute/screenshot_380.jpg This also gives me a way to stretch my 3 shot 1EV Fuji X-E2 brackets, by adjusting the -1EV shot to -3, and the +1EV to +3, then Merging all three. That also works very well. There are indeed many ways of achieving an HDR effect. I just use the one that's most comfortable for me at the time. e.g. If I was shooting a moving critter I would use a different method that for a still object with the camera on a tripod. It is not so much as seeking an HDR "effect" as extending the exposure dynamic range (DR) to lift detail from shadows and protect the highlights. Most importantly, is gaining that boost in DR without suffering the inclusion of tonemapping artificiality, haloes, unreal glow, and unnatural saturation, the typical HDR signature of old. Today it is possible to get natural, realistic HDR images. When it comes to moving targets/subjects traditional exposure bracket HDR is just not possible. Now with what LR has to offer the door is open to shoot a single RAW exposure of a moving subject and process it to convert it to a natural HDR image. This is something I would have thought you would exlore. You can always take the new clean HDR into NIK ColorEfex Pro and apply Tonal Contrast to provide some of that tonemapping effect. -- Regards, Savageduck |
#96
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How to measure ISO
In article , Eric Stevens wrote:
Eric Stevens: As a general rule, I would also expose to the left. The D750 gives me little trouble with noise and I tend to have more trouble with burned out highs than I do with loss of detail in the shadows. nospam: ideally, it's best to expose to the right without clipping any highlights. Eric Stevens: Why? What do you do if, as I said, your problem *is* clipping highlights? nospam: then reduce the exposure. if you clip the highlights, they're gone. you don't want to clip highlights. Which is more or less what I said in the paragraph at the top of this article. Thank you for leaving it in. But the topic was over or underexposure, where the general rule is to overexpose (expose to the right) and you replied and said you'd rather underexpose (expose to the left) in order to not clip highlight, but the general rule of overexposure doesn't say "expose to the right, clip highlights", just expose to the right, so your reply didn't make any sense in the context. You are free to underexpose as much as you like, of course. In fact, I myself tend to underexpose rather than overexpose. But that's not because the "expose to the right" rule of thumb means clipped highlights. It doesn't. -- Sandman |
#97
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How to measure ISO
Eric Stevens wrote:
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 22:46:38 +0000, sid wrote: Eric Stevens wrote: As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...-7500601-2.jpg and https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...R--7500957.jpg Both of these were taken hand-held with the D750 set on -1/2 EV. Without stating what your are metering from and what type of metering your are using neither of your posts have any real meaning. Pointing your camera at different parts of the scene you want to photograph will indicate different exposure values as will different metering methods for example spot metering as opposed to centre weighted or evaluative etc. I can't say for certain but I was probably using matrix metering. Irrespective of the mode of metering I would have been checking both the captured image and the histogram as I went. Well that's the beauty of digital, the ability to instantly check your results. All I'm trying to point out is that your -1 ev could result in exactly the same exposure value as Alfreds -3 ev depending on how and where you metered the same scene. -- sid |
#98
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How to measure ISO
PeterN wrote:
On 11/6/2015 5:35 PM, sid wrote: nospam wrote: In article , Alfred Molon wrote: As I have already described I have been exposing to the left by deliberately underexposing by 1/2 stop as they advised. But if you are really serious/religious about avoiding clipped highlights, you should underexpose by 2 or three stops. definitely not. Well that would be the case if one was metering on the highlights 1/2 a stop only will usually leave you with lots of clipped pixels. no. Again, it depends on what your are metering from. Did you expect a helpful answer, given in a non-confrontational manner. Does the pope wear a silly hat? -- sid |
#99
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How to measure ISO
On 2015-11-06 13:31, PeterN wrote:
On 11/5/2015 10:09 AM, nospam wrote: In article , Eric Stevens wrote: How on earth do you set the diaphragm on your lens? same as usual, with the front control wheel. however, that has nothing to do with an exposure meter. That will be news to many. learning is a good thing. Try it sometime. You really are a **** Peter. |
#100
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How to measure ISO
On 2015-11-06 13:30, PeterN wrote:
Most good photographers expose for the subject matter. No, they expose for the light and the medium. Since digital cameras behave very much like slide film, one generally exposed for the highlights. Did ya learn anything from that? |
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