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#1
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Manual focusing for moon picture
After getting some good responses for taking pictures of the moon, I gave it
a try last night with a half moon showing. I need to spend more time at this, but I did get one shot that was not bad. I was using a 300mm (actually 480mm due to 1.6x) telephoto (75-300mm lens) with my Rebel using f/5.6 and an exposure time of 1/30. The one good picture showed a surprising amount of detail. The problem was that it was slightly out of focus. Any suggestions on how to do a better job focusing in this situation? I was using manual focus. After taking the picture, I could use the LCD zoom feature and it looked reasonable. When I got the image on my computer, I could tell it was not as good as it could have been. I have found that with this camera, it does a much better job at auto-focusing than I can do manually. Should I auto-focus to some object in the distance and then switch it to manual leaving the focus alone for a moon picture? Maybe an f/8 with a slightly longer exposure time? I don't think my exposure time was too slow thereby allowing the moon to move because I didn't see any blurring around the edge. Jeff |
#2
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Manual focusing for moon picture
"Jeff Durham" wrote in message ... auto-focusing than I can do manually. Should I auto-focus to some object in the distance and then switch it to manual leaving the focus alone for a moon picture? Maybe an f/8 with a slightly longer exposure time? I don't think my exposure time was too slow thereby allowing the moon to move because I didn't see any blurring around the edge. Why not auto-focus on the moon itself? It's clear and bright enough. |
#3
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Manual focusing for moon picture
I am pretty certain I tried that and the camera failed to auto focus on it.
It was a half moon and I was doing this from my backyard with some light coming from neighboring houses and my own. I will try this again from a darker location and try out the auto focus again. Jeff "Mick Sterbs" wrote in message ... "Jeff Durham" wrote in message ... auto-focusing than I can do manually. Should I auto-focus to some object in the distance and then switch it to manual leaving the focus alone for a moon picture? Maybe an f/8 with a slightly longer exposure time? I don't think my exposure time was too slow thereby allowing the moon to move because I didn't see any blurring around the edge. Why not auto-focus on the moon itself? It's clear and bright enough. |
#4
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Manual focusing for moon picture
On Thu, 24 Jun 2004 14:08:03 GMT, "Jeff Durham"
wrote: After getting some good responses for taking pictures of the moon, I gave it a try last night with a half moon showing. I need to spend more time at this, but I did get one shot that was not bad. I was using a 300mm (actually 480mm due to 1.6x) telephoto (75-300mm lens) with my Rebel using f/5.6 and an exposure time of 1/30. The one good picture showed a surprising amount of detail. The problem was that it was slightly out of focus. Any suggestions on how to do a better job focusing in this situation? I was using manual focus. After taking the picture, I could use the LCD zoom feature and it looked reasonable. When I got the image on my computer, I could tell it was not as good as it could have been. I have found that with this camera, it does a much better job at auto-focusing than I can do manually. Should I auto-focus to some object in the distance and then switch it to manual leaving the focus alone for a moon picture? Maybe an f/8 with a slightly longer exposure time? I don't think my exposure time was too slow thereby allowing the moon to move because I didn't see any blurring around the edge. Jeff I have found that most tel-adapters are not afocal with the main lens (afocal meaning no-refocusing needed). Manually focusing the main lens to infinity while using a telephoto adapter is usually a sure way to get an out of focus picture. Rely on auto-focusing to confirm this, reading off what focal distance the camera found best. Then learn to use that setting for future shots. You might also want to bracket your focus a little as an experiment to see if you can do slightly better than auto-focus (I found this to be especially true on shots of the moon, even during an lunar eclipse. On my camera with a telephoto adapter, I found best infinity focus to be about 23-27 ft. varying with the f/stop and brightness/contrast of subject.) You will also get a sharper image if you don't use either an extremely small or large settings of the f/stop of your lens. The smaller f/stops in digital cameras are at the limits of the physics of light and softness will be introduced by diffraction of the wavelengths of light. The larger apertures incorporate more glass and are prone to error from more reflective scatter and (normally insignificant) errors in lens quality. It will be a process of trial & error to find the best settings in focus and f/stop for a telephoto image of the moon. (The above problems are also true when doing infra-red photography with the main camera lens alone. I found that on my camera I need to focus at about 28 inches for day-lit scenery normally needing an infinity setting. A surprising amount of compensation.) |
#5
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Manual focusing for moon picture
"Jeff Durham" wrote in message ... After getting some good responses for taking pictures of the moon, I gave it a try last night with a half moon showing. I need to spend more time at this, but I did get one shot that was not bad. I was using a 300mm (actually 480mm due to 1.6x) telephoto (75-300mm lens) with my Rebel using f/5.6 and an exposure time of 1/30. The one good picture showed a surprising amount of detail. The problem was that it was slightly out of focus. Any suggestions on how to do a better job focusing in this situation? I was using manual focus. After taking the picture, I could use the LCD zoom feature and it looked reasonable. When I got the image on my computer, I could tell it was not as good as it could have been. I have found that with this camera, it does a much better job at auto-focusing than I can do manually. Should I auto-focus to some object in the distance and then switch it to manual leaving the focus alone for a moon picture? Maybe an f/8 with a slightly longer exposure time? I don't think my exposure time was too slow thereby allowing the moon to move because I didn't see any blurring around the edge. Jeff You can't do better than setting the focus at infinity. |
#6
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Manual focusing for moon picture
"Jeff Durham" writes:
The one good picture showed a surprising amount of detail. The problem was that it was slightly out of focus. Any suggestions on how to do a better job focusing in this situation? I was using manual focus. After taking the This is a surprise. Did the moon look in focus when you were composing the photo? I'd look for other reasons for blur. I shoot 35mm slides, so I'm not sure how to make this formula work in digital: e = 600/fl where e is the exposure time in seconds and fl is the focal length of the lens. So for 35mm and a 480mm lens, e = 600/480 = 1.25 secs is the maximum time before the moon (and stars) begin to blur from movement. Your exposure _seems_ to be within that limit (again, whether this formula applies at all in LCDs with the magnification factor is a mystery to me, but it's a starting point). I'd look at the tripod. Did you kick it? Is it rock stable? When you triggered the exposure, did you jiggle the camera? The other thing is to take some photos of very distant objects after manual focussing. It may be that the camera or lens is slightly out of whack (my camera wouldn't focus on infinity, and the lens mount had a screw loose, making the mount itelf the wrong distance from the film plane). Maybe you thought you'd focussed on infinity and just missed it. Try, try again. -- Philip Stripling | email to the replyto address is presumed Legal Assistance on the Web | spam and read later. email to philip@ http://www.PhilipStripling.com/ | my domain is read daily. |
#7
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Manual focusing for moon picture
"Jeff Durham" wrote in
: After getting some good responses for taking pictures of the moon, I gave it a try last night with a half moon showing. I need to spend more time at this, but I did get one shot that was not bad. I was using a 300mm (actually 480mm due to 1.6x) telephoto (75-300mm lens) with my Rebel using f/5.6 and an exposure time of 1/30. The one good picture showed a surprising amount of detail. The problem was that it was slightly out of focus. Any suggestions on how to do a better job focusing in this situation? I was using manual focus. After taking the picture, I could use the LCD zoom feature and it looked reasonable. When I got the image on my computer, I could tell it was not as good as it could have been. I have found that with this camera, it does a much better job at auto-focusing than I can do manually. Should I auto-focus to some object in the distance and then switch it to manual leaving the focus alone for a moon picture? Maybe an f/8 with a slightly longer exposure time? I don't think my exposure time was too slow thereby allowing the moon to move because I didn't see any blurring around the edge. Focus on a distant treeline in daylight and use two pieces of masking tape, one on the fixed lens barrel, one on the focus ring, to make a matching mark between the two for 'infinity' focus. Use this as your starting point. Do not trust the stopping point of the focus ring. Most zooms nowadays extend beyond the optimal infinity mark and begin to defocus again. So you're going to semi-trust your eyes in good conditions. When the moon's out again, use this mark as your focus point. But also shoot a couple of frames slightly to either side of this mark, 'bracketing' it. This way you have a little bit of leeway in your original determination of infinity focus. Also, Canon's 75-300 is slightly soft wide open at 300mm, but it improves greatly as you stop the aperture down. Shoot a few frames at f8 and f11, adjusting shutter speed and/or ISO accordingly, and see if you don't coax some improvement from it. Use a flashlight to examine the lens frequently for condensation, too. If it's humid, do NOT switch the lens outdoors - you could introduce condensation onto an interior lens element and this takes forever to clear. Also, if it's a warm night and your equipment has been stored in cooler areas (like air conditioning), allow a half hour or better outdoorsm fully capped, for the lenses to reach ambient temperature before trying to use them. And don't assume this will prevent condensation - astronomers know glass will collect humidity in the right conditions no matter how long it's been acclimated to them. Good luck! - Al. -- To reply, insert dash in address to separate G and I in the domain |
#8
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Manual focusing for moon picture
I am very new to this camera and lens. Here is a dumb question. How do you
set this lens to infinity? It is a Canon 300D with a Canon EF 75-300mm lens. I can crank the focus ring all of the way down, but things at a distance are not in focus. I have to back it off some to go back to focus. Through the viewfinder, I got the moon in reasonable focus. It is only when I went to look at the image on my computer that I could see that it was slightly out of focus. Soon, I will have a website up to start posting pictures because the picture says it all. It is hard to see the detail through the lens with the camera mounted on the tripod looking up 45 degrees into the sky to know that it is in focus. :-) At this point, I would say it is my focusing ability rather than the lens and camera other than the lens being touchy to focus. The other evening, I took a few pictures of a distant object at night. With manual focus, I noticed the end result being slightly out of focus when reviewing the picture on my computer where the camera's autofocus was dead on. Jeff "Phil Stripling" wrote in message ... "Jeff Durham" writes: The one good picture showed a surprising amount of detail. The problem was that it was slightly out of focus. Any suggestions on how to do a better job focusing in this situation? I was using manual focus. After taking the This is a surprise. Did the moon look in focus when you were composing the photo? I'd look for other reasons for blur. I shoot 35mm slides, so I'm not sure how to make this formula work in digital: e = 600/fl where e is the exposure time in seconds and fl is the focal length of the lens. So for 35mm and a 480mm lens, e = 600/480 = 1.25 secs is the maximum time before the moon (and stars) begin to blur from movement. Your exposure _seems_ to be within that limit (again, whether this formula applies at all in LCDs with the magnification factor is a mystery to me, but it's a starting point). I'd look at the tripod. Did you kick it? Is it rock stable? When you triggered the exposure, did you jiggle the camera? The other thing is to take some photos of very distant objects after manual focussing. It may be that the camera or lens is slightly out of whack (my camera wouldn't focus on infinity, and the lens mount had a screw loose, making the mount itelf the wrong distance from the film plane). Maybe you thought you'd focussed on infinity and just missed it. Try, try again. -- Philip Stripling | email to the replyto address is presumed Legal Assistance on the Web | spam and read later. email to philip@ http://www.PhilipStripling.com/ | my domain is read daily. |
#9
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Manual focusing for moon picture
I will give your suggestions a try. I am in full manual mode and using a
tripod. I will also try the autofocus again. This could be just an overexposure situation. Thanks, Jeff "Jim Townsend" wrote in message ... Jeff Durham wrote: After getting some good responses for taking pictures of the moon, I gave it a try last night with a half moon showing. I need to spend more time at this, but I did get one shot that was not bad. I was using a 300mm (actually 480mm due to 1.6x) telephoto (75-300mm lens) with my Rebel using f/5.6 and an exposure time of 1/30. You should be using about 1/60 @ f/16 for a half moon at ISO 100.. I suspect your image is slightly overexposed rather than out of focus. (Canon has an excellent autofocus system).. Overexposure will blow out the white areas causing a lack of detail. Are you shooting in full manual ? You have to in order to photograph the moon. This is because of the way it meters light. Your camera doesn't have spot metering and a lot of black sky is being averaged into the automatic exposure system. The black sky makes the camera think there is less light despite the moon being very bright. Take a few shots starting at what I suggested and then some with increased and decreased exposure times. Keep the best ones :-) Finally, Are you using a tripod ? You *won't* get clear shots at 1/30 - 1/60 second without one.. |
#10
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Manual focusing for moon picture
"Jeff Durham" wrote in message . ..
After getting some good responses for taking pictures of the moon, I gave it a try last night with a half moon showing. I need to spend more time at this, but I did get one shot that was not bad. I was using a 300mm (actually 480mm due to 1.6x) telephoto (75-300mm lens) with my Rebel using f/5.6 and an exposure time of 1/30. The one good picture showed a surprising amount of detail. Can we see it? The problem was that it was slightly out of focus. Any suggestions on how to do a better job focusing in this situation? I was using manual focus. After taking the picture, I could use the LCD zoom feature and it looked reasonable. When I got the image on my computer, I could tell it was not as good as it could have been. That's a major problem with the Canon, it uses a 25% size JPEG thumbnail for the LCD display, making proper assement of focus impossible. The other major problem is auto focus play. Not a great combo. I have found that with this camera, it does a much better job at auto-focusing than I can do manually. Should I auto-focus to some object in the distance and then switch it to manual leaving the focus alone for a moon picture? Maybe an f/8 with a slightly longer exposure time? I don't think my exposure time was too slow thereby allowing the moon to move because I didn't see any blurring around the edge. Anytime you are on a tripod at night shoot desired daytime parameters if at all possible--i.e. always ISO 100 and generally f6.7-9.5, but that is lens dependent. |
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