Nikon N65 taking a pic of the moon

Ok, I am not skilled in any way in photography... I just upgraded from a
decent point & shoot Nikon Zoom Touch 600 to a Nikon N65 (28-80 lens)...

I want to take a picture of the moon, but even when I change the setting
from auto to nighttime, when I push the shutter button it will autofocus
out, then in and refuse to take the picture. I would appreciate somebody
helping me figure out which settings to use.

thanks
tom

"IN Packer Fan" wrote in
news:H7xyb.268568$275.961188@attbi_s53:

Ok, I am not skilled in any way in photography... I just upgraded
from a decent point & shoot Nikon Zoom Touch 600 to a Nikon N65 (28-80
lens)...

I want to take a picture of the moon, but even when I change the
setting from auto to nighttime, when I push the shutter button it will
autofocus out, then in and refuse to take the picture. I would
appreciate somebody helping me figure out which settings to use.


Doing a Google search on moon photography will net you a ton of info.
Generally, there isn't any autofocus or autoexposure camera that is likely
to get a decent picture by itself - you'll have to override the settings.

It would take a significant focal length (500mm+) to get the moon big
enough in the frame to have the meter and AF work, and you'd have to be
spot-metering (otherwise it will compensate for all the blackness in the
frame). Go for manual focus. You will hear people suggest using the "Sunny
16" rule for a *full* moon (at f16, your shutter speed should be the
reciprocal of your film speed, 1/100 second for ISO 100); personally, I
think f11 works better. Mileage may vary, so bracket the exposure. And
you'll be increasing exposure the farther the moon is from full, because
the reflected light decreases. Same holds for lower on the horizon, hazy
skies, and so on.

This exposure is too low to catch much else in the frame, including
stars and foreground details unless brightly lit. If this is your
intention, you may have to do a multiple exposure (which means a firm
tripod and a remote release is recommended). Get the dim features before
the moon has entered the frame, or after it leaves, otherwise you'll
overexpose the moon into a featureless flare.

Good luck with it, and be creative!


- Al.

--
To reply, insert dash in address to match domain below
Online photo gallery at www.wading-in.net

Having done it on occasion (including last month's lunar eclipse) with
both film and digital cameras, I think I can give you an assist.

First, Al is exactly right -- you need a long lens to get a reasonable
image. 300 mm is the absolute minimum; to FILL a 35mm frame, you need
more like 3,000 mm! And with a long lens, better mount the camera on
a good tripod. Use a cable release (bulb) or a self-timer setting if
you can, so your hand isn't on the camera when the picture is taken.

Second, override the auto-focus and focus at infinity (find a street
lamp or some other outdoor lights at least 500 feet from where you
are).

Third, use an exposure about one stop longer than sunny sixteen (right
again, Al). Example: for ISO 200 film (or digital if your camera can
do that), f/16 for 1/125th would be pretty good.

Finally, practice... practice... practice!


On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 02:44:40 -0000, Al Denelsbeck
wrote:

"IN Packer Fan" wrote in
news:H7xyb.268568$275.961188@attbi_s53:

Ok, I am not skilled in any way in photography... I just upgraded
from a decent point & shoot Nikon Zoom Touch 600 to a Nikon N65 (28-80
lens)...

I want to take a picture of the moon, but even when I change the
setting from auto to nighttime, when I push the shutter button it will
autofocus out, then in and refuse to take the picture. I would
appreciate somebody helping me figure out which settings to use.


Doing a Google search on moon photography will net you a ton of info.
Generally, there isn't any autofocus or autoexposure camera that is likely
to get a decent picture by itself - you'll have to override the settings.

It would take a significant focal length (500mm+) to get the moon big
enough in the frame to have the meter and AF work, and you'd have to be
spot-metering (otherwise it will compensate for all the blackness in the
frame). Go for manual focus. You will hear people suggest using the "Sunny
16" rule for a *full* moon (at f16, your shutter speed should be the
reciprocal of your film speed, 1/100 second for ISO 100); personally, I
think f11 works better. Mileage may vary, so bracket the exposure. And
you'll be increasing exposure the farther the moon is from full, because
the reflected light decreases. Same holds for lower on the horizon, hazy
skies, and so on.

This exposure is too low to catch much else in the frame, including
stars and foreground details unless brightly lit. If this is your
intention, you may have to do a multiple exposure (which means a firm
tripod and a remote release is recommended). Get the dim features before
the moon has entered the frame, or after it leaves, otherwise you'll
overexpose the moon into a featureless flare.

Good luck with it, and be creative!


- Al.