If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Is selenium worth the effort
"Mike" wrote in message news When I desire a nice brown-toned print, I've been using Kodak Brown Toner. However when I want strictly B&W, I don't tone at all. Is Kodak Rapid Selenium worth the effort? I hear that it makes prints "glow" by increasing the Dmax. Depends upon the paper and your desires. I've realized a deeper black with Agfa MCP and MCC and like the look alot. Looked OK on Cache FB Plus and on Ilford MG IV RC was stunning. This is in addition to the archival qualities it imparts on the print as well. I think it's worth it for the extended life it gives the print alone. KRST is not the cheapest chemical on the dealer's shelf, but it won't break the bank either. Might I suggest you buy a bottle and give it a try. If you are really skeptical, tone one of your work prints first and see what the result is. It may convince you right there. I've ended up with work print looking better than what I thought was a good final after dunking it in KRST (did this to make sure it was still good). |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Is selenium worth the effort
Hi Mike,
A year or two ago, I posted in this newsgroup a chart of what effects Selenium has on what papers given various developers. You may want to look it up. Some papers do not change color, some have radical changes. A study of increase in contrast was published in Photo Techniques USA a couple years ago. It found that for the maximum increase in contrast, 2 - 4 minutes in selenium is desireable, and that after that there is a slight drop off from the gains achieved. For some papers, a tonal shift will already have started by 4 minutes, however. You have to know which is which. Another consideration is archivability. It is generally accepted that 2-4 minutes in a 1:9 solution of KRST does not give full protection to a paper. For that 10-11 minutes is probably needed. Even at that, it seems that some protection that used to be achievable with KRST is now longer available because "contaminants" are no longer in the KRST. The "contaminants" turned out to be the principal ingredient in Kodak Brown Toner. This leads to the interesting possibility of intentionally contaminating your KRST with minute amount of Brown Toner - just enough that some protective effect is had, but not enough to affect tonality in a 2-4 minute bath. Francis A. Miniter Mike wrote: When I desire a nice brown-toned print, I've been using Kodak Brown Toner. However when I want strictly B&W, I don't tone at all. Is Kodak Rapid Selenium worth the effort? I hear that it makes prints "glow" by increasing the Dmax. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Is selenium worth the effort
"Francis A. Miniter"
This leads to the interesting possibility of intentionally contaminating your KRST with minute amount of Brown Toner This used to be sold as Kodak Polytoner, no longer available, now you have to mix your own. Linda Butler is a current proponent of Polytoner: http://www.lindabutlerphoto.com/ She does it to split-tone with pink highlights and brown shadows. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Is selenium worth the effort
"Francis A. Miniter" wrote
This leads to the interesting possibility of intentionally contaminating your KRST with minute amount of Brown Toner - just enough that some protective effect is had, but not enough to affect tonality in a 2-4 minute bath. Francis A. Miniter You may have read the same article I read. Sodium sulfide at a 1:9,999 dilution imparted excellent protection to microfilm. Of course print paper is not the same thing. Even though, it may work. Perhaps the IPI could be coaxed into testing print paper. Dan |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Is selenium worth the effort
Is Kodak Rapid
Selenium worth the effort? I hear that it makes prints "glow" by increasing the Dmax. Its effect depends on the dilution, paper, and the amount of time you leave the print in the solution. Higher dilutions (1:20 or greater) have little or no effect on D-max and are used to make the silvered image more permanent. Lower dilutions (1:5 or less, usually,) can have an effect on D-max and/or image color, but it depends on the paper. Since you use it in light, keep an eye on the print and pull it when you get the effect you like. Keeping an identical reference print (wet) to compare it to can be of some help in judging the changes that have occurred. Obviously, all the above are generalities: your mileage may vary. Experiment and have fun! mjs C program run. C program crash. C programmer quit. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|