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Night Photography



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 26th 04, 04:24 PM
Francis A. Miniter
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Default Night Photography

What I have found works well is to use Plus-X rated at EI 80 and develop
it in FX-37. I get good shadow separation that way.


Francis A. Miniter


Jan T wrote:

I did some experementing lately in order to find a way to overcome the huge
contrasts in night scenes.
I underdevelopped the film by some 25% for this purpose and compensated for
the loss of film speed by overexposing by abt. 2 stops.
Have a look at the result at http://home.tiscali.be/jant/04090301_75dpi.jpg
(or http://home.tiscali.be/jant/04090301_300dpi.jpg for larger image)

Film was Tri-X Prof 320 in D-76 at IE 100 and -25% dev. time.

Good luck!

Jan


schreef in bericht ...


I am a student at Utah State University, and am doing a portfoloio on


night


photography. I have always been mezmerized by the bright lights against a
black night sky, and being able to see what things are.

I was interested in getting some ideas for good subjects for my


photographs.


I would also be grateful for any technical pointers on exposure times and
printing, to come out with clean, detailed photographs.

Thanks

Curtis M
Utah State University
Logan Utah







  #13  
Old January 26th 04, 05:03 PM
Damir Sabalic
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Default Night Photography


wrote in message ...

I am a student at Utah State University, and am doing a portfoloio on

night
photography. I have always been mezmerized by the bright lights against a
black night sky, and being able to see what things are.

I was interested in getting some ideas for good subjects for my

photographs.

I would also be grateful for any technical pointers on exposure times and
printing, to come out with clean, detailed photographs.


http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/moonlight.html


  #14  
Old January 26th 04, 11:06 PM
Fred
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Default Night Photography

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 12:03:40 +0100, "Jan T"
wrote:

I did some experementing lately in order to find a way to overcome the huge
contrasts in night scenes.
I underdevelopped the film by some 25% for this purpose and compensated for
the loss of film speed by overexposing by abt. 2 stops.
Have a look at the result at http://home.tiscali.be/jant/04090301_75dpi.jpg
(or http://home.tiscali.be/jant/04090301_300dpi.jpg for larger image)

Film was Tri-X Prof 320 in D-76 at IE 100 and -25% dev. time.

(snip)


Was your example shot with a 35mm camera?
Fred
  #15  
Old January 27th 04, 02:56 AM
Mark in Maine
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Default Night Photography

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 17:28:23 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

So far as exposure times go, any decent light meter ought to at least get you
well within the ballpark. You do have a good tripod, don't you?


With night photography, there are two big things that you have to
concern yourself about that are different from most photography:

Light levels are lower (duh), which will lead to long exposures and
you need to worry about reciprocity failure.

Contrast tends to be very high - often exceeding what the film is
capable of handling even with compensation in how you develop it.

The combination of these two things means that there will be parts of
the image which are not exposed 'properly' things are going to be lost
in shadow, and other things are going to be blown out. This makes it
very important to really know before you press the shutter what you
want your image to look like, and to figure the exposure accordingly.
Matrix metering will probably not do the trick. - You will want to
use a good spot meter, and spend some time calculating exactly what
you want for an exposure.

Night photography is a good example of how you are likely going to
want to overexpose and underdevelop if working in B&W - If you haven't
done a lot of testing, rate your film a stop slower than the mfr, and
develop about 20% less time. This will help with the contrast.

And shoot lots of film, take notes on what you are doing as you shoot,
then decide what images you like, and refer to your notes to figure
out how to do it again.

  #16  
Old January 27th 04, 03:10 AM
Brian Kosoff
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Default Night Photography

On 1/26/04 8:56 PM, in article ,
"Mark in Maine" wrote:

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 17:28:23 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

So far as exposure times go, any decent light meter ought to at least get you
well within the ballpark. You do have a good tripod, don't you?


With night photography, there are two big things that you have to
concern yourself about that are different from most photography:

Light levels are lower (duh), which will lead to long exposures and
you need to worry about reciprocity failure.

Contrast tends to be very high - often exceeding what the film is
capable of handling even with compensation in how you develop it.

The combination of these two things means that there will be parts of
the image which are not exposed 'properly' things are going to be lost
in shadow, and other things are going to be blown out. This makes it
very important to really know before you press the shutter what you
want your image to look like, and to figure the exposure accordingly.
Matrix metering will probably not do the trick. - You will want to
use a good spot meter, and spend some time calculating exactly what
you want for an exposure.

Night photography is a good example of how you are likely going to
want to overexpose and underdevelop if working in B&W - If you haven't
done a lot of testing, rate your film a stop slower than the mfr, and
develop about 20% less time. This will help with the contrast.

And shoot lots of film, take notes on what you are doing as you shoot,
then decide what images you like, and refer to your notes to figure
out how to do it again.




Unless you're aiming a telephoto lens at the moon, you are not going to find
ANY lightmeter, with the possible exception of the discontinued calculite,
that will give you a proper night time reading. Unless of course you are
working in an illuminated area such as a city. You will need to experiment
and to calculate reciprocity failure for your film.

  #17  
Old January 27th 04, 08:50 AM
Jan T
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Default Night Photography

Fred,

I used a Mamiya C220 with 80mm 2.8

Jan

"Fred" schreef in bericht
...
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 12:03:40 +0100, "Jan T"
wrote:

I did some experementing lately in order to find a way to overcome the

huge
contrasts in night scenes.
I underdevelopped the film by some 25% for this purpose and compensated

for
the loss of film speed by overexposing by abt. 2 stops.
Have a look at the result at

http://home.tiscali.be/jant/04090301_75dpi.jpg
(or http://home.tiscali.be/jant/04090301_300dpi.jpg for larger image)

Film was Tri-X Prof 320 in D-76 at IE 100 and -25% dev. time.

(snip)


Was your example shot with a 35mm camera?
Fred



  #18  
Old February 6th 04, 01:47 AM
Daniel ROCHA
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Default Night Photography

, à écrit :
I was interested in getting some ideas for good subjects for my
photographs.


All is subjects ! I really like night photography.

I have done that :
http://www.monochromatique.com/extnuit/

Regards,


--
-- Daniel Rocha Photographie --
http://www.monochromatique.com


 




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