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#11
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Anti-Newtonion glass for 4x5
And the reason you put AN glass in a carrier in the first place are Newton
Rings which appear when two smooth surfaces contact, in this case the base side of the film and the glass plate. Since the emulsion side of the film is not as smooth and secondly even sheet film has a slight curve the base side is all that causes the problem. -- darkroommike "Bogdan Karasek" wrote in message .. . HI, I just want to thank all the people who responded. Some very interesting comments and information. Didn't know that you only put an AN on the top and regular good quality glass on the bottom. I've been shooting 4x5 on and off for the past few years, mostly do 120 and 35, but as I go on, I'm drawn to the larger format, bought a 5x7 Elwood enlarger which will differently need an AN, and have shot about 100 8x10 negs. I'm also drawn to the palladium print and thought that the AN would improve the quality of the negative. I have a heat absorbing glass in the filter drawer on my DIIv. But still, I like the idea of using just one neg holder for 35, 4.5x6, 6x6, 6x9 and 4x5 is very alluring. Point taken about possible dust problems but I'm very scrupulous, always "dust" both sides of the neg with compressed air and dust out the condensers at least once a month, if not more often if I'm using it heavily. So the dust problem would be taken care of. Another factor that I have to consider is that I often work with the same negative all day and night. Must take a beating being under the "lights" so long. ????. The AN might help there??? Anyway, You have been very helpful and I Thank You! Regards, Bogdan Greg "_" wrote: In article , (Thor Lancelot Simon) wrote: In article , Greg \"_\" wrote: The glass is used on the topside only of the carrier because if placed on the bottom side as well will print the pattern of the ridges onto the photo paper it will also produce a fuzzy image. Actually, the best solution I've found is to use anti-newton glass -- available from frame shops as "anti-glare" or "no-glare" glass; it is acid-etched to have a very very slight stippling -- above the negative, and coated glass, also available from frame shops, under it. If you are doing color work you will want to get the fancy low-iron coated glass for best results, and perhaps use it both above and below the negative. Frame shops often sell the "Denglas" brand of coated glass. A large shop can probably even seam the edges of this for you after cutting it to size so that you do not risk cutting your fingers when you install it in the carrier or remove it for cleaning. Its a good solution-you give. Noting however: "coated" does not equate to Ant newton,.....but still a good idea never the less for the bottom. -- __________________________________________________ ________________ Bogdan Karasek Montral, Qubec e-mail: Canada "Wovon man nicht sprechen kann, darber muss man schweigen" "What we cannot speak about we must pass over in silence" Ludwig Wittgenstein __________________________________________________ ______________ |
#13
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Anti-Newtonion glass for 4x5
In article ,
Greg \"_\" wrote: In article , If you mean that coated glass isn't the same stuff a photo supplier will sell you as "anti-newton glass", that's correct; the acid-etched "anti glare" glass sold by frame shops is, as far as I can tell, the exact same product, however. Meaning that coated implied clear glass with an anti reflective coating the same as eye glass- glass,...I would not put any frosted textured or otherwise non clear glass below the negative and expect a sharp result at the paper. Yeah, we're on violent agreement on this: anti newton glass under the negative is a very bad idea. But I have, in fact, seen newton rings on negatives that did in fact appear to come from the interface between the glass _under_ the negative and the negative -- and short of oiling both surfaces, which is what I did (using the entire bottle of immersion oil from a microscope kit I had stashed away in my basement, actually!) and which is quite a mess to clean up, the only real solution for that interface is coated glass. -- Thor Lancelot Simon "We cannot usually in social life pursue a single value or a single moral aim, untroubled by the need to compromise with others." - H.L.A. Hart |
#14
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Anti-Newtonion glass for 4x5
On Sun, 09 Apr 2006 20:06:22 -0400, "Greg \"_\""
wrote: Its a good solution-you give. Noting however: "coated" does not equate to Ant newton,.....but still a good idea never the less for the bottom I use it for both top and bottom though I admit that I only use the top if the negative is bowed. Suprisingly I find that my TXP negs are flat. Perfectly flat ? Nope. But with one glass on the bottom and only 2X enlargments .... adequate. == John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster www.legacy-photo,com www.xs750.net |
#15
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Anti-Newtonion glass for 4x5
On Sun, 09 Apr 2006 22:48:19 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote: Just for the benefit of my little brain, is that "coated glass" coated with the same stuff used on lenses (magnesium fluoride, etc.)? I believe it is. Looks green in reflected light. Amazing difference when used for print display. == John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster www.legacy-photo,com www.xs750.net |
#16
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Anti-Newtonion glass for 4x5
On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 12:45:52 +0000 (UTC), (Thor Lancelot
Simon) wrote: In article , David Nebenzahl wrote: Just for the benefit of my little brain, is that "coated glass" coated with the same stuff used on lenses (magnesium fluoride, etc.)? I don't know. The coating process is different -- it's some kind of dip process instead of the vacuum sputter used to deposit coatings on lenses. The resulting coating isn't as durable but it is a lot cheaper to do and still cuts reflections. One manufacturer (Tru-Vue) supposedly uses a sputter process for coating some of their framing glass but I don't know if this is really the same process used to coat lenses nor what the benefits are, in practice. -- Thor Lancelot Simon From the Denglass FAQ : The coatings on Denglas are fired onto the surface of the glass and are very durable. What is the difference between antireflective and non-glare glass? Non-glare glass is an acid etched glass that creates tiny pores in the surface of the glass. Also the little fact that they have a link to Denton Vacuum (http://www.dentonvacuum.com/) tells me that they are probably using that sputtering process as well. == John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster www.legacy-photo,com www.xs750.net |
#17
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Anti-Newtonion glass for 4x5
In article ,
John wrote: On Sun, 09 Apr 2006 20:06:22 -0400, "Greg \"_\"" wrote: Its a good solution-you give. Noting however: "coated" does not equate to Ant newton,.....but still a good idea never the less for the bottom I use it for both top and bottom though I admit that I only use the top if the negative is bowed. Suprisingly I find that my TXP negs are flat. Perfectly flat ? Nope. But with one glass on the bottom and only 2X enlargments .... adequate. == John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster www.legacy-photo,com www.xs750.net Anti newton??? Or just coated? -- The sometimes insomniac. www.gregblankphoto.com |
#18
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Anti-Newtonion glass for 4x5
On Wed, 12 Apr 2006 01:14:47 -0400, "Greg \"_\""
wrote: I use it for both top and bottom though I admit that I only use the top if the negative is bowed. Suprisingly I find that my TXP negs are flat. Perfectly flat ? Nope. But with one glass on the bottom and only 2X enlargments .... adequate. == Anti newton??? Or just coated? Just coated. I have some AN in an Omega 4X5 carrier but alas I haven't used it in 4 years now. == John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster www.legacy-photo,com www.xs750.net |
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