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best RAW converter to recover blown / overexposed highlights



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 2nd 04, 10:08 PM
digiboy
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Default best RAW converter to recover blown / overexposed highlights

Hi All

As above really! What the best RAW converter to recover blown /
overexposed highlights.

Cheers

Digi
  #2  
Old October 2nd 04, 10:22 PM
macro
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I've had good results from Breeze Browser, but nothing can save a totally
overexposed shot.

digiboy wrote:
Hi All

As above really! What the best RAW converter to recover blown /
overexposed highlights.

Cheers

Digi

  #3  
Old October 3rd 04, 05:20 AM
Jeremy Nixon
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digiboy wrote:

As above really! What the best RAW converter to recover blown /
overexposed highlights.


I haven't compared them, so I can't say which is "best", but Photoshop
Camera Raw is pretty good at pulling *something* out of blown highlights,
as long as all three channels aren't clipped, of course (if they are, then
there is no hope).


--
Jeremy |
  #4  
Old October 3rd 04, 06:29 AM
Mark M
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"digiboy" wrote in message
om...
Hi All

As above really! What the best RAW converter to recover blown /
overexposed highlights.

Cheers


C1 (Capture One) and Photoshop CS both do a great job at this.
It really is amazing what poorly metered shots you can rescue.


  #5  
Old October 3rd 04, 07:01 AM
MB
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The best RAW converter by a long way is Compact One by Phase One. It's not
freeware but it does a far better job than anything else currently
available.
Regards


"digiboy" wrote in message
om...
Hi All

As above really! What the best RAW converter to recover blown /
overexposed highlights.

Cheers

Digi



  #6  
Old October 3rd 04, 08:19 AM
Mark M
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"MB" wrote in message
...
The best RAW converter by a long way is Compact One by Phase One. It's not
freeware but it does a far better job than anything else currently
available.
Regards



Don't you mean "Capture One"??



"digiboy" wrote in message
om...
Hi All

As above really! What the best RAW converter to recover blown /
overexposed highlights.

Cheers

Digi





  #7  
Old October 3rd 04, 04:21 PM
John McWilliams
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Mark M wrote:
"MB" wrote in message
...

The best RAW converter by a long way is Compact One by Phase One. It's not
freeware but it does a far better job than anything else currently
available.



Don't you mean "Capture One"??

Could you define "best" a bit? And by what measures does it do anything
"far better"?

--
John McWilliams
  #8  
Old October 3rd 04, 09:48 PM
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In message h7M7d.12871$Hz.4901@fed1read04,
"Mark M" wrote:


"digiboy" wrote in message
. com...
Hi All

As above really! What the best RAW converter to recover blown /
overexposed highlights.

Cheers


C1 (Capture One) and Photoshop CS both do a great job at this.
It really is amazing what poorly metered shots you can rescue.


It is also nice that if you know this headroom is there, you can use it
to your advantage. The noise in the 10D due to amplification and
readout is low up until ISO 400, so if you are in a situation where you
have a very low contrast subject, and were going to shoot at ISO 100,
you might shoot at ISO 400 instead and "overexpose" by two stops, to get
two extra bits of precision in the image, with almost no extra noise.
--


John P Sheehy

  #9  
Old October 3rd 04, 10:14 PM
Michael Schnell
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As above really! What the best RAW converter to recover blown /
overexposed highlights.


You can use a RAW converter to convert the file to a 3*16 Bit format (e.g.
as TIFF or JP2, e.g. Thumbs + 2000 can do this). This does not lose any
brightness resolution and you can use a 16 bit aware appropriate editor
program (e.g. within Thumbs+) to tweak the lightness.

-Michael




  #10  
Old October 4th 04, 12:36 AM
Mark M
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wrote in message
news
In message h7M7d.12871$Hz.4901@fed1read04,
"Mark M" wrote:


"digiboy" wrote in message
. com...
Hi All

As above really! What the best RAW converter to recover blown /
overexposed highlights.

Cheers


C1 (Capture One) and Photoshop CS both do a great job at this.
It really is amazing what poorly metered shots you can rescue.


It is also nice that if you know this headroom is there, you can use it
to your advantage. The noise in the 10D due to amplification and
readout is low up until ISO 400, so if you are in a situation where you
have a very low contrast subject, and were going to shoot at ISO 100,
you might shoot at ISO 400 instead and "overexpose" by two stops, to get
two extra bits of precision in the image, with almost no extra noise.


Yes.
Sort of like pushing and pulling film...


 




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