Is HE-1 Safe to Use?

HE-1, hypo eliminator, is suggested when cloth contaminated
with fixer needs cleaning. Dilution of the usual full strength
is mentioned but not by what amount.

The hydrophobic separators used for the still water diffusion wash
I employ are kept in a weak solution of bleach. They are rinsed
prior to use.

Not so with the hydrophobic separators I use with my blotter
stack dryer. They are to be cleaned in a dilute HE-1. I know
the solution must be in an open container. Do I need to
wear gloves? Can it be dumped down the drain? Dan

a écrit :
HE-1, hypo eliminator, is suggested when cloth contaminated
with fixer needs cleaning. Dilution of the usual full strength
is mentioned but not by what amount.

The hydrophobic separators used for the still water diffusion wash
I employ are kept in a weak solution of bleach. They are rinsed
prior to use.

Not so with the hydrophobic separators I use with my blotter
stack dryer. They are to be cleaned in a dilute HE-1. I know
the solution must be in an open container. Do I need to
wear gloves? Can it be dumped down the drain? Dan


You have a thorough description of Kodak HE-1 formula in Kodak's
Publication J-1 (page 40).
A copy can be found here (warning, the PDF's size is 20MB):
http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/files/Kodak%20j-1.pdf

HE-1 contains ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde.
It must be used quickly after mixing and yes, while using it, it must be
kept in an open container.
There is no particular warning indicated with this formula except the
gaz it generates may breake a sealed bottle but ammonia has a strong and
suffocant odor and I suggest you use it in a well-ventilated area.
If you dilute it sufficiently, I think you can dump it down the drain.
Check with your local regulations if in doubt.

Best regards,
Claudio Bonavolta
http://www.bonavolta.ch

Claudio Bonavolta wrote:

They are to be cleaned in a dilute HE-1. I know
the solution must be in an open container. Do I need to
wear gloves? Can it be dumped down the drain? Dan


HE-1 contains ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde.,

Best regards, Claudio Bonavolta http://www.bonavolta.ch


Bleach is also suggested for cleaning screens and fabrics.
I think it must be less effective than HE-1. The ammonia present
in HE-1 will complex with any traces of oxidized silver. A chlorine
bleach might even hinder the removal of silver. The emphasis
is on the thiosulfate's conversion to sulfate.
What about the silver? Dan

wrote in message
oups.com...
Claudio Bonavolta wrote:

They are to be cleaned in a dilute HE-1. I know
the solution must be in an open container. Do I need to
wear gloves? Can it be dumped down the drain? Dan


HE-1 contains ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde.,

Best regards, Claudio Bonavolta http://www.bonavolta.ch


Bleach is also suggested for cleaning screens and
fabrics.
I think it must be less effective than HE-1. The ammonia
present
in HE-1 will complex with any traces of oxidized silver. A
chlorine
bleach might even hinder the removal of silver. The
emphasis
is on the thiosulfate's conversion to sulfate.
What about the silver? Dan


HE-1 will not complex some thiosulfate-silver complexes
without adding some bromide. For prints (I know you are
asking about clothes) its suggested that the print be
treated first with Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, washed for 10
or 20 minutes, then treated in HE-1 with bromide and finally
washed enough to wash out the HE-1. HE-1 is a pretty strong
oxidizer but probably no worse than laundry bleach.
If you are concerned with metallic silver I suppose you
could treat the cloth with Farmer's reducer and then HE-1.
Of course, bichromate tray cleaner is an even better silver
remover. I suppose one could use it, followed with a sulfite
or bisulfite clearing bath, but I am not so sure how well
the cloth would tollerate it.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

"Richard Knoppow" wrote in message
nk.net...

wrote in message
oups.com...
Claudio Bonavolta wrote:

They are to be cleaned in a dilute HE-1. I know
the solution must be in an open container. Do I need
to
wear gloves? Can it be dumped down the drain? Dan


HE-1 contains ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde.,

Best regards, Claudio Bonavolta
http://www.bonavolta.ch


Bleach is also suggested for cleaning screens and
fabrics.
I think it must be less effective than HE-1. The ammonia
present
in HE-1 will complex with any traces of oxidized silver.
A chlorine
bleach might even hinder the removal of silver. The
emphasis
is on the thiosulfate's conversion to sulfate.
What about the silver? Dan


HE-1 will not complex some thiosulfate-silver complexes
without adding some bromide. For prints (I know you are
asking about clothes) its suggested that the print be
treated first with Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, washed for
10 or 20 minutes, then treated in HE-1 with bromide and
finally washed enough to wash out the HE-1. HE-1 is a
pretty strong oxidizer but probably no worse than laundry
bleach.
If you are concerned with metallic silver I suppose you
could treat the cloth with Farmer's reducer and then HE-1.
Of course, bichromate tray cleaner is an even better
silver remover. I suppose one could use it, followed with
a sulfite or bisulfite clearing bath, but I am not so sure
how well the cloth would tollerate it.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA


Kodak Hand Stain Remover S-5
Solution No.1
Potassium permanganate 7.5 grams
Water 1.0 liter

Solution No.2
Sodium bisulfite 480.0 grams
Water 1.0 liter

Treat hands with solution No.1, then rinse and treat with
No.2.
Kodak also has a couple of Potassium permanganate silver
bleaches.

Kodak Tray Cleaner TC-2 (not for hands)
Solution A
Water 1.0 liter
Potassium permanganate 5.0 grams
Sulfuric Acid, concentrated 10.0 ml

Solution B
Water 1.0 liter
Sodium Bisulfite 10.0 grams

To use pour a small amount of Solution A into the tray and
swirl around for a few minutes. Then pour out and rinse
with water. Then apply Solution B and finally rinse
thoroughly.

For cleaning rotary dryer canvas and similar I think
plain household laundry bleach will work well enough.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA