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#1
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Sony tells DSLR shooters they're idiots
Chris Malcolm writes:
In rec.photo.digital Trevor wrote: "David Dyer-Bennet" wrote in message ... Personally I don't have a problem shooting 90% of the time in full manual, but many do it seems, since it requires a little knowledge of what all the options mean :-) That's not, generally, the reason. Though I'm sure sometimes it is. The reason is often that it slows you down. If you're shooting fast-moving action in unstable light, it can slow you down significantly -- depending on how "fast-moving" the action is, even devestatingly. I find the opposite just as often. Trying to set overides every time I move the camera even if the light hasn't changed, simply because there is more backlight, or some other reason the camera gets it wrong. Why not simply hit the exposure lock button when it gets it right or you've adjusted the compensation to get it where you want it? Then you can move the viewpoint as much as you like without changing exposure. Lack of fingers. And I don't know if it even works right -- what happens if I change the exposure compensation while holding exposure lock? (And I'm using that finger, which is my thumb, to control the AF, it's not available for AEL.) -- Googleproofaddress(account:dd-b provider:dd-b domain:net) Snapshots: http://dd-b.net/dd-b/SnapshotAlbum/data/ Photos: http://dd-b.net/photography/gallery/ Dragaera: http://dragaera.info |
#2
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Sony tells DSLR shooters they're idiots
On 2012-12-14 00:06:00 -0800, David Dyer-Bennet said:
Chris Malcolm writes: In rec.photo.digital Trevor wrote: "David Dyer-Bennet" wrote in message ... Personally I don't have a problem shooting 90% of the time in full manual, but many do it seems, since it requires a little knowledge of what all the options mean :-) That's not, generally, the reason. Though I'm sure sometimes it is. The reason is often that it slows you down. If you're shooting fast-moving action in unstable light, it can slow you down significantly -- depending on how "fast-moving" the action is, even devestatingly. I find the opposite just as often. Trying to set overides every time I move the camera even if the light hasn't changed, simply because there is more backlight, or some other reason the camera gets it wrong. Why not simply hit the exposure lock button when it gets it right or you've adjusted the compensation to get it where you want it? Then you can move the viewpoint as much as you like without changing exposure. Lack of fingers. And I don't know if it even works right -- what happens if I change the exposure compensation while holding exposure lock? (And I'm using that finger, which is my thumb, to control the AF, it's not available for AEL.) Tongue. Perhaps nose. -- Regards, Savageduck |
#3
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Sony tells DSLR shooters they're idiots
Savageduck writes:
On 2012-12-14 00:06:00 -0800, David Dyer-Bennet said: Chris Malcolm writes: In rec.photo.digital Trevor wrote: "David Dyer-Bennet" wrote in message ... Personally I don't have a problem shooting 90% of the time in full manual, but many do it seems, since it requires a little knowledge of what all the options mean :-) That's not, generally, the reason. Though I'm sure sometimes it is. The reason is often that it slows you down. If you're shooting fast-moving action in unstable light, it can slow you down significantly -- depending on how "fast-moving" the action is, even devestatingly. I find the opposite just as often. Trying to set overides every time I move the camera even if the light hasn't changed, simply because there is more backlight, or some other reason the camera gets it wrong. Why not simply hit the exposure lock button when it gets it right or you've adjusted the compensation to get it where you want it? Then you can move the viewpoint as much as you like without changing exposure. Lack of fingers. And I don't know if it even works right -- what happens if I change the exposure compensation while holding exposure lock? (And I'm using that finger, which is my thumb, to control the AF, it's not available for AEL.) Tongue. Perhaps nose. True, the D700 at least is somewhat moisture-sealed :-). Nose might work out okay, I'm left-eyed so it's at least in the right neighborhood. -- Googleproofaddress(account:dd-b provider:dd-b domain:net) Snapshots: http://dd-b.net/dd-b/SnapshotAlbum/data/ Photos: http://dd-b.net/photography/gallery/ Dragaera: http://dragaera.info |
#4
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Sony tells DSLR shooters they're idiots
In rec.photo.digital.slr-systems David Dyer-Bennet wrote:
Chris Malcolm writes: In rec.photo.digital Trevor wrote: "David Dyer-Bennet" wrote in message ... Personally I don't have a problem shooting 90% of the time in full manual, but many do it seems, since it requires a little knowledge of what all the options mean :-) That's not, generally, the reason. Though I'm sure sometimes it is. The reason is often that it slows you down. If you're shooting fast-moving action in unstable light, it can slow you down significantly -- depending on how "fast-moving" the action is, even devestatingly. I find the opposite just as often. Trying to set overides every time I move the camera even if the light hasn't changed, simply because there is more backlight, or some other reason the camera gets it wrong. Why not simply hit the exposure lock button when it gets it right or you've adjusted the compensation to get it where you want it? Then you can move the viewpoint as much as you like without changing exposure. Lack of fingers. And I don't know if it even works right -- what happens if I change the exposure compensation while holding exposure lock? Never thought to try that ... (fiddle fiddle) ... Wow! It works really cleverly! The exposure lock (I've set it to toggle) locks it at whatever the exposure was at that moment. Under the image in the viewfinder is a range of + & - exposure values with an arrow over the middle (0) in plan vanilla autoexposure mode. On activating exposure lock the arrow and scale is immediaely locked, and a seond arrow appears which tracks how much the actual exposure value has now deviated from the locked value. Exposure comepnsation still works, and adjusts the value of locked exposure setting appropriately. So I can lock exposure, still see where the real exposure level has moved to, and can indepedently adjust the locked value without unlocking it to auto. Very useful intelligent implenentation! Thanks for raising that question! I've only had this new camera for a few weeks. It takes me at least six months to discover most of the useful features of a new camera. Plus maybe another year to discover that a few of the silly features I never bothered to try are actually very useful in certain special circumstances. (And I'm using that finger, which is my thumb, to control the AF, it's not available for AEL.) Again may depend on your camera, but in order not to use up any of my digits holding buttons down I have set my buttons to toggle. Means I can adjust lots of things without taking my eye off the viewfinder. And I've set my default autofocus to drop into manual focus once it's found focus, so I don't need to press anything to start fine tuning with manual focus if I want. In fact some of the latest lenses drop into manual focus as soon as you move the focus ring on the barrel anyway, but this works with any AF lens. -- Chris Malcolm |
#5
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Sony tells DSLR shooters they're idiots
Chris Malcolm writes:
In rec.photo.digital.slr-systems David Dyer-Bennet wrote: Chris Malcolm writes: In rec.photo.digital Trevor wrote: "David Dyer-Bennet" wrote in message ... Personally I don't have a problem shooting 90% of the time in full manual, but many do it seems, since it requires a little knowledge of what all the options mean :-) That's not, generally, the reason. Though I'm sure sometimes it is. The reason is often that it slows you down. If you're shooting fast-moving action in unstable light, it can slow you down significantly -- depending on how "fast-moving" the action is, even devestatingly. I find the opposite just as often. Trying to set overides every time I move the camera even if the light hasn't changed, simply because there is more backlight, or some other reason the camera gets it wrong. Why not simply hit the exposure lock button when it gets it right or you've adjusted the compensation to get it where you want it? Then you can move the viewpoint as much as you like without changing exposure. Lack of fingers. And I don't know if it even works right -- what happens if I change the exposure compensation while holding exposure lock? Never thought to try that ... (fiddle fiddle) ... Wow! It works really cleverly! The exposure lock (I've set it to toggle) locks it at whatever the exposure was at that moment. Under the image in the viewfinder is a range of + & - exposure values with an arrow over the middle (0) in plan vanilla autoexposure mode. On activating exposure lock the arrow and scale is immediaely locked, and a seond arrow appears which tracks how much the actual exposure value has now deviated from the locked value. Exposure comepnsation still works, and adjusts the value of locked exposure setting appropriately. So I can lock exposure, still see where the real exposure level has moved to, and can indepedently adjust the locked value without unlocking it to auto. Very useful intelligent implenentation! Thanks for raising that question! I've only had this new camera for a few weeks. It takes me at least six months to discover most of the useful features of a new camera. Plus maybe another year to discover that a few of the silly features I never bothered to try are actually very useful in certain special circumstances. No idea how it works on mine, since I never use AEL myself. (And I'm using that finger, which is my thumb, to control the AF, it's not available for AEL.) Again may depend on your camera, but in order not to use up any of my digits holding buttons down I have set my buttons to toggle. Means I can adjust lots of things without taking my eye off the viewfinder. And I've set my default autofocus to drop into manual focus once it's found focus, so I don't need to press anything to start fine tuning with manual focus if I want. In fact some of the latest lenses drop into manual focus as soon as you move the focus ring on the barrel anyway, but this works with any AF lens. I've avoided the toggle settings because it's nearly certain I'd have it backwards a lot of the time, thus ruining evyerything I shot. Plus I really benefit from controlling the AF in real-time. I set my camera to continuous AF, but controlled only by the back AF-ON button, NOT by the shutter release. So I can get continuous AF up until the instant I want to stop, by modulating my thumb on the button. My lenses will mostly let turning the focus ring overide the AF, but I wish I could turn that off, I consider it largely a bug. It means if I bump it, I could disturb the focus and means I have to be much more careful how I hold the lens. -- Googleproofaddress(account:dd-b provider:dd-b domain:net) Snapshots: http://dd-b.net/dd-b/SnapshotAlbum/data/ Photos: http://dd-b.net/photography/gallery/ Dragaera: http://dragaera.info |
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