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#1
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ttl metering
Does anyone check the accuracy of the metering system in their camera?
Is it accurate through every ISO speed. Just curious. eric phillips |
#2
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Nope, haven't checked...but if it isn't ...what do you think you can do
about it? Adjust it for every shot? Just take the photo and it will be close enough in almost every case...close enough to adjust in your editing program. "eric phillips" wrote in message ... Does anyone check the accuracy of the metering system in their camera? Is it accurate through every ISO speed. Just curious. eric phillips |
#3
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On Sun, 06 Mar 2005 21:14:11 +0000, eric phillips wrote:
Does anyone check the accuracy of the metering system in their camera? Is it accurate through every ISO speed. Just curious. eric phillips Check against what ? Whether a picture is slightly over or underexposed is in the eye of the beholder. I compared D-Rebel against EOS300 using the same lens - Sigma 28-300. At the same ISO (100 - 400) both gave the same exposure throughout. However, at ISO 800 EOS300 consistently gave half a stop over the D-Rebel in various shutter speed - aperture combination. I took some pictures with D-Rebel in that setting and they looked OK. I did not take any pictures with EOS300 alongside D-Rebel for direct comparison. I never had any problem of underexposure with EOS300 & that Sigma lens, though I have never used a 800 ISO film. From this crude test I can say D-Rebel & EOS300 has very similar exposure system (no surprise, eh :-)) and to my eyes they are "accurate". -- Gautam Majumdar Please send e-mails to |
#4
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On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 05:41:43 GMT, "Gene Palmiter"
wrote: Nope, haven't checked...but if it isn't ...what do you think you can do about it? Adjust it for every shot? Just take the photo and it will be close enough in almost every case...close enough to adjust in your editing program. "eric phillips" wrote in message .. . Does anyone check the accuracy of the metering system in their camera? Is it accurate through every ISO speed. Just curious. eric phillips Well You could check it out by the method of trial and error. You have to have a sunny day to try this. The old days there was the 'Sunny f/16 rule where the correct exposure at f/16 would correspond to the ISO number. I.E. 100 = f/16 at 1/90. ISO 200 = f/16 at 1/180 .400 = f/16 at 1/500. Set the camera to manual ISO 100 f/16 at 1/90 set the lens to infinity aim at a portion of a tree trunk that is in full light and half depress the shutter and the pointer should be centred. Repeat this in every ISO and any anomolies will show up . Make a note of these and you should know exactly what settings to set up before shooting. eric phillips |
#5
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"eric phillips" wrote in message ... Does anyone check the accuracy of the metering system in their camera? Is it accurate through every ISO speed. Just curious. eric phillips Yes, every year or so I check to see that the metering system in all of my cameras is still giving correct results (according to the sunny 16 rule). Yes, they are all accurate enough. My cameras are 2 F3s, an N90S, and a D70. The film cameras have been placed on leave... Jim |
#6
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eric phillips wrote:
Does anyone check the accuracy of the metering system in their camera? Is it accurate through every ISO speed. Just curious. eric phillips The only tests I do, very occasionally: I Set up a grey card under difuse light. Meter it (spot preferably) with the lens axis perpendicular to the card. Incident meter it (with an incident meter) dome pointing where camera reading was taken. Should be within 1/3 of a stop. II ...very bright cloudless day. ...two hours before, or two hours after solar noon. ...Set ISO to 100 ...Set aperture to f/16 ...Put a white styrofoam coffee cup (clean, preferably) over the lens ...point at the horizon in the direction of the sun. Should read a shutter speed of 1/100. Acceptable would be 1/90 to 1/125. III If I have a few frames of slide film left to go, and I have nothing better to do, I shoot the frames at various apertures under a studio strobe using the meter to set for, eg, f/5.6. Then I shoot that and the apertures in 1/3 or 2/3 stops on each side of f/5.6 (steps according to the number of frames left. The target is something colorful plus a grey card). Note the frame numbers and settings. When I get the frames back, it is pretty clear which is the right exposure and compare to the notes. Cheers, Alan. -- -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. |
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