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#51
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converting old negatives to digital
"jeremy" writes:
I find scratches all over the newly-developed film. It must be the processing machine. Without ICE3, I'd have given up on film. A film scanner without ICE3 is simply a waste of time. I had the same problem at a photo lab I used. They swore they'd checked and corrected that problem in their machine, but still I got the scratches. I then switched labs and have seen only one scratch in one picture during the last year. I don't know what equipment the previous one used, but the new one has Fuji Frontier equipment (older and newer machines during the last year I've used their services.) My house is very dusty no matter how much I try keep it clean, probably due to my two cats, so dust is my main problem with film. ICE3 makes the dust a complete non-problem for me on color negative and slide film. Black and white negative film must be handled very religiously to avoid excess dust. I wish they developed a "ICE3 for B/W film" technology already. |
#52
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converting old negatives to digital
In message , Toni Nikkanen
writes snip My house is very dusty no matter how much I try keep it clean, probably due to my two cats, so dust is my main problem with film. ICE3 makes the dust a complete non-problem for me on color negative and slide film. Black and white negative film must be handled very religiously to avoid excess dust. I wish they developed a "ICE3 for B/W film" technology already. I love b&w photography but only take colour slides (and colour digital images). I convert to b&w on my computer, and get a lot more options doing it that way than starting out with b&w film. Also D-ICE works a treat with Fujichrome! -- Surfer! Email to: ramwater at uk2 dot net |
#53
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converting old negatives to digital
Surfer! writes:
I love b&w photography but only take colour slides (and colour digital images). I convert to b&w on my computer, and get a lot more options doing it that way than starting out with b&w film. Also D-ICE works a treat with Fujichrome! That's a good option but I like the self-developing part, messing with chemicals and so on. Granted I could develope color slide film myself as well, but I have always told myself it's too much more troublesome to do myself. |
#54
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converting old negatives to digital
Toni Nikkanen wrote:
Surfer! writes: I love b&w photography but only take colour slides (and colour digital images). I convert to b&w on my computer, and get a lot more options doing it that way than starting out with b&w film. Also D-ICE works a treat with Fujichrome! That's a good option but I like the self-developing part, messing with chemicals and so on. Granted I could develope color slide film myself as well, but I have always told myself it's too much more troublesome to do myself. You certainly *can* develop slide film yourself. I've done it, to a total of probably over 100 rolls (with various friends; I never did it as my own primary way to get it done). Modern color emulsions are designed for automated processing -- so they depend on accurate temperature and time control to a degree that's hard to do manually, and very easy in automated equipment. Also, unless you shoot a lot, your chemicals my expire from old age before you get your full use of them, which runs the price up a lot. The amount of variation you can get by applying various B&W developers to various B&W films is so huge that I can see the attraction of continuing to do it. I've got the darkroom in boxes still, and I had planned to not give up the tanks and reels and basic developing stuff even if I did finally sell the enlarger (which is by now worth nothing; should have done it 20 years ago). |
#55
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converting old negatives to digital
On Sun, 28 Jan 2007 14:29:23 -0600, David Dyer-Bennet
wrote: THO wrote: In article , David Dyer-Bennet wrote: THO wrote: That's crazy. There is a century worth of slides and rollfilm from the 1900s that individuals and institutions will be moving to digital for many years to come. Stuff that old will be scanned using flatbeds with transparency adapters, mostly, rather than dedicated film scanners. And *certainly* not with 35mm film scanners :-). The stuff isn't that old. How many of us have 20-50 years worth of film? Hmm; 1900s meant solidly the first part of the century to me, and mostly the first decade. If you take it to mean the whole 20th century then it includes lots of 35mm stuff, sure, including most of mine. Then again, I don't think film that hasn't at least started moving to digital has much chance. I'm not *done* yet, but I'm on my second 35mm Why would you say it doesn't have much chance? The film will probably outlast the digital media on which its placed. Only if the digital information is properly caredfore and updated periodically will it sustain a long life. scanner (currently on loan to a friend for *him* to get caught up on old film). Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair) www.rogerhalstead.com |
#56
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converting old negatives to digital
In message , THO
writes In article , David Dyer-Bennet wrote: THO wrote: In article , David Dyer-Bennet wrote: The long-strip scanning sounds interesting -- if you have your film in long strips, which nobody I know does. It's certainly not how non-photographers would have it. (I believe the original poster said I think you're talking about the primefilm scanners which have the ability to pull in an entire roll of negatives. They would be uncut because you'd ask your lab or local drug store to not cut the negatives. They'll usually deliver them in an old 35mm canister. Going this route, you avoid the cost of prints and may only pay $2 for C41 developing. And, in every case I've examined, have an *amazing* level of scratches on the film, from rubbing layers against each other. You can get develop-only film returned cut still. Of course, you can get it cut. And then you can't use one of the roll feeders (Nikon do one as well as PrimeFilm) to scan the whole lot in one go, which is where this bit of the thread came from. -- Surfer! Email to: ramwater at uk2 dot net |
#57
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converting old negatives to digital
Roger wrote:
On Sun, 28 Jan 2007 14:29:23 -0600, David Dyer-Bennet wrote: THO wrote: In article , David Dyer-Bennet wrote: THO wrote: That's crazy. There is a century worth of slides and rollfilm from the 1900s that individuals and institutions will be moving to digital for many years to come. Stuff that old will be scanned using flatbeds with transparency adapters, mostly, rather than dedicated film scanners. And *certainly* not with 35mm film scanners :-). The stuff isn't that old. How many of us have 20-50 years worth of film? Hmm; 1900s meant solidly the first part of the century to me, and mostly the first decade. If you take it to mean the whole 20th century then it includes lots of 35mm stuff, sure, including most of mine. Then again, I don't think film that hasn't at least started moving to digital has much chance. I'm not *done* yet, but I'm on my second 35mm Why would you say it doesn't have much chance? It'll be thrown out when the photographer dies, mostly. The film will probably outlast the digital media on which its placed. Not if it's color. Only if the digital information is properly caredfore and updated periodically will it sustain a long life. We'll see. Color film is often significantly faded in 50 years. I think good CDs and DVDs are going to turn out to mostly make that benchmark (accelerated aging tests are suggesting a couple of hundred years might work). Black and white silver-gelatine film lasts a lot better, and probably would outlast the digital media if both were unmaintained. |
#58
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converting old negatives to digital
"Toni Nikkanen" wrote in message ... Surfer! writes: I love b&w photography but only take colour slides (and colour digital images). I convert to b&w on my computer, and get a lot more options doing it that way than starting out with b&w film. Also D-ICE works a treat with Fujichrome! That's a good option but I like the self-developing part, messing with chemicals and so on. Granted I could develope color slide film myself as well, but I have always told myself it's too much more troublesome to do myself. Ah, brings back memories. Still got my old Nikor SS tanks and reels downstairs somewhere (probably even a can of Microdol-X too). Used to be able to load that 35mm reel in about 30 seconds flat. Always got a kick out of the static "glow" you got when you peeled the tape off the end of the film at the hub. Nothin like a good sniff of stop bath to clear the old nose @!@ mikey |
#59
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converting old negatives to digital
On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 10:34:39 -0600, David Dyer-Bennet
wrote: Roger wrote: On Sun, 28 Jan 2007 14:29:23 -0600, David Dyer-Bennet wrote: THO wrote: In article , David Dyer-Bennet wrote: THO wrote: That's crazy. There is a century worth of slides and rollfilm from the 1900s that individuals and institutions will be moving to digital for many years to come. Stuff that old will be scanned using flatbeds with transparency adapters, mostly, rather than dedicated film scanners. And *certainly* not with 35mm film scanners :-). The stuff isn't that old. How many of us have 20-50 years worth of film? Hmm; 1900s meant solidly the first part of the century to me, and mostly the first decade. If you take it to mean the whole 20th century then it includes lots of 35mm stuff, sure, including most of mine. Then again, I don't think film that hasn't at least started moving to digital has much chance. I'm not *done* yet, but I'm on my second 35mm Why would you say it doesn't have much chance? It'll be thrown out when the photographer dies, mostly. The film will probably outlast the digital media on which its placed. Not if it's color. The key in color processing is generally the wash. properly processed, washed, and stored negatives and slides should easily last 50 if not a 100 years. I have many that are over 50 in good shape. I have a few that are showing deterioration in 20. Only if the digital information is properly caredfore and updated periodically will it sustain a long life. We'll see. Color film is often significantly faded in 50 years. I I would not say often based on my own experience. I certainly do see a few, but not enough to come near saying often. Typically the stuff I've processed myself is in better shape than the commercial labs. OTOH the best is those of the Kodachrome lineage. I have maybe a half dozen of those that have shown a color shift, but those had led a hard life and spend a lot of time in a projector. With Ektachrome OTOH I've seen a number of rolls that have a definite darkening and blue shift. That has to be something in the processing. I'd guess (more than likely) it is due to either insufficient bleach or insufficient wash before the bleach. think good CDs and DVDs are going to turn out to mostly make that benchmark (accelerated aging tests are suggesting a couple of hundred years might work). Practice is already showing they have been highly optimistic in those tests. There have been some unexpected things such as a fungus, and layer separation without any real explanation as to why. The Kodak Gold CDs were probably the best by far, but they are no longer available as far as I know. Now we need something like that in DVDs and dual layer DVDs. Dual layer brigs up another "?". With the Blue Ray and HD DVDs coming on line what is going to happen to the regular dual layer DVDs? This also brings up the question: What good is a 100 year guarantee if you most likely will not be able to read the media in 20 years, or if the company changes hands, or goes out of business? http://www.rogerhalstead.com/scanning.htm Black and white silver-gelatine film lasts a lot better, and probably would outlast the digital media if both were unmaintained. Maintenance is one of the important tasks. The biggest problem with digital media besides an indeterminate life time is format. With the rapid changes in technology it's doubtful we'll be reading the same CDs and DVDs for much more than a decade which will require transferring the contents to new media. So we can probably plan on needing to transfer to new media about every decade even if the storage is perfect as in a short time the hard ware to read the media may no longer be available. BTW speaking of media: I have a computer in the basement that uses dual 8" floppy disks. I have the computer (OSI C2-8P), dual 8" drives, and two big boxes of disks. Finding something to read those big disks that hold all of 320K each could be a problem. OTOH I really don't have any need to read them, but today's media is facing the same sort of obsolescence. One other instance, last week I was backing up files. I had about 25 DVDs on a spindle that is about two years old. I went through 10 with five failures on file validation. I threw out the rest and used new ones with no failures. Speeds were set properly and all of the drives are relatively new. I had some old CDs on which they worked fine. Also storing on digital media is shifting to DVDs from CDs. I've scanned over 30,000 slides and negatives in the past couple of years. Most of these files are 68 to 130 Megs. I now shoot mostly digital but those files are on the order of 15 megs (give or take) each when uncompressed into TIFFs from NEFs. I end up shooting about 70 to 100 Gigs a year in recent years. At any rate the long term storage (CD or DVD) for the average user needs to be verified at the time of writing and again every few years at most. IF any deterioration shows up the checking time should be cut in half for safety. But once any deterioration shows up the entire batch needs to be moved onto new media. Keeping track of several hundred DVDs full of images is a job by itself. When you pass 500 it's work. Much more than a 1000 and it's nice to have help and that usually doesn't come free. About the only thing more boring than checking disks for data integrity is cultivating Navy beans the first time through. Only an old farmer would under stand that one. :-)) Magnetic media as well as DVD R/W and CD R/W disks are not viable media for long term storage. External HDs are good for short term storage and back up and more cost effective than DVDs or CDs even when they are free as my last batch of 50 were. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair) www.rogerhalstead.com |
#60
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converting old negatives to digital
On Sun, 28 Jan 2007 07:11:02 +0000 (UTC), (Geoffrey
S. Mendelson) wrote: jeremy wrote: Lots of families have tons of negs and slides--many probably that were taken by family members who have passed on by now--and there may not be enough interest in spending more for a film scanner than one could spend on items that are perceived to yield a lot more service to a lot more people. My wife's sister is a typical user. She has collected all the family photographs she could find, going back to her father's youth. She scans them at 300dpi on a flatbed scanner. She made up a CD-ROM of the jpegs and sent it to her brother and sisters. As she finds new ones she emails them. Might I suggest http://www.rogerhalstead.com/scanning.htm as a place to start for scanning, particularly the "old family slides and negatives", and go from there. At 300 dpi the pictures look fine on the screen and make decent same size prints. This can be done with almost any flat bed scanner. Negatives are another issue, Epson makes nice 4800dpi flat bed scanners with a slot for 35mm negatives (up to 6 at a time) and a place for slides. These scanners sell, AFAIK, for less than $200 in the U.S. Since most people have negatives cut in strips of six, a 36 or 40 roll film capability, APS, or medium format, are expensive items they never really need. 1200 DPI is more than sufficient for the average home user, it gives the equivalent of 2MP. 4800 gives you 16 times that, around 34MP. With those capabilites, relatively low price and added ability to scan prints, papers for faxing and copying, etc, no one wants to spend more for a dedicated film scanner. Geoff. Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member) (N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair) www.rogerhalstead.com |
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