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ISO settings Minolta Dynax



 
 
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  #11  
Old July 30th 07, 05:55 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Geoffrey S. Mendelson
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Posts: 450
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Pudentame wrote:
I pretty much limit it to rating color print (C-41) about 1/3 stop lower
(i.e. ISO 400 film rated at ISO 320) and slide film (E-6) about 1/3 stop
higher (ISO 64 film rated at ISO 100).

No need to adjust processing to get slightly denser negatives or
slightly more saturated slides.


Color print film designed for the mass market is very happy when overexposed
1 or 2 stops. It produces less highlight detail, more shadow detail
and more saturated colors.

Many people like the results, and set the color level on their TV and
computer monitors to match. If the newscaster on the evening news on
YOUR TV looks like Homer Simpson, then you will be happier that way.


You can also use it to Push/Pull whole stops, but you then have to
remember to tell whoever processes the film what you've done ... "I shot
this roll of ISO 400 film at ISO 1600" (2 stop push).


There is some black and white film that is processed as color negative
film (called chromogenic), for example Ilford XP2, that can be exposed
at ISO's from 100 to 1600 and produce a useable negative. The film itself
is actually a high speed and a low speed film sandwiched together.

Agfa's product was similar. I have never used the Kodak chromogenic
films in that way, so I can't speak about them.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at
http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/
  #12  
Old July 30th 07, 08:57 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Gerard
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Posts: 3
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Thanks to all for your enlightening replies.

I still got a question.Does that mean when I go through the developing
of the film I don't necessarily have to tell the developers that I
pushed or pulled the film or does that apply only to cases for high
ISO changes above a third as Pudentame says?

Gerard

On Jul 30, 6:55 am, (Geoffrey S. Mendelson) wrote:
Pudentame wrote:
I pretty much limit it to rating color print (C-41) about 1/3 stop lower
(i.e. ISO 400 film rated at ISO 320) and slide film (E-6) about 1/3 stop
higher (ISO 64 film rated at ISO 100).


No need to adjust processing to get slightly denser negatives or
slightly more saturated slides.


Color print film designed for the mass market is very happy when overexposed
1 or 2 stops. It produces less highlight detail, more shadow detail
and more saturated colors.

Many people like the results, and set the color level on their TV and
computer monitors to match. If the newscaster on the evening news on
YOUR TV looks like Homer Simpson, then you will be happier that way.

You can also use it to Push/Pull whole stops, but you then have to
remember to tell whoever processes the film what you've done ... "I shot
this roll of ISO 400 film at ISO 1600" (2 stop push).


There is some black and white film that is processed as color negative
film (called chromogenic), for example Ilford XP2, that can be exposed
at ISO's from 100 to 1600 and produce a useable negative. The film itself
is actually a high speed and a low speed film sandwiched together.

Agfa's product was similar. I have never used the Kodak chromogenic
films in that way, so I can't speak about them.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel
N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog athttp://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/



  #13  
Old July 30th 07, 09:30 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Richard Polhill
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Posts: 447
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Gerard wrote:
Thanks to all for your enlightening replies.

I still got a question.Does that mean when I go through the developing
of the film I don't necessarily have to tell the developers that I
pushed or pulled the film or does that apply only to cases for high
ISO changes above a third as Pudentame says?

Gerard



yes yes yes you do have to tell them.

Read my other posts.

OK so C41 film has a very wide latitude and will cope with a stop or two but
the pictures will still end up crap if you don't overdevelop to compensate.
  #14  
Old July 30th 07, 09:34 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Richard Polhill
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 447
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Gerard wrote:
Thanks to all for your enlightening replies.

I still got a question.Does that mean when I go through the developing
of the film I don't necessarily have to tell the developers that I
pushed or pulled the film or does that apply only to cases for high
ISO changes above a third as Pudentame says?

Gerard


High? That's a THIRD of a STOP. Almost no change.

Always inform the lab if you are making a change of a stop or two. And believe
me, if you want to make a difference then you'll need to make it a whole stop
or two.

Of course you can use it for 1/3 stop compensation, but that's what the
exposure compensation setting is for.
  #15  
Old July 30th 07, 10:05 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Geoffrey S. Mendelson
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 450
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Richard Polhill wrote:
Always inform the lab if you are making a change of a stop or two. And believe
me, if you want to make a difference then you'll need to make it a whole stop
or two.


That depends upon the lab. Don't expect a "one hour photo" type place
to be able to do anything. You may also pay significantly more for
developing.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at
http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/
  #16  
Old July 31st 07, 03:59 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Pudentame
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,139
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Gerard wrote:
Thanks to all for your enlightening replies.

I still got a question.Does that mean when I go through the developing
of the film I don't necessarily have to tell the developers that I
pushed or pulled the film or does that apply only to cases for high
ISO changes above a third as Pudentame says?


Small variations +/- 1/3 stop won't matter.

For Color Print film, even one or two stops OVER Exposure won't be
insurmountable; i.e. if you over-ride the DX coding for 400 speed film
and shoot it at 200 or 100.

If you shoot 400 speed film at 800 or 1600, you need to tell the lab to
push process the film.

Most mini-labs, the one hour kind you find at Wallgreens, Eckerds,
Walmart ... won't be able to push process the film.

Slide film is less tolerant than print film. That one or two stop
OVER-exposure will ruin your slide film.

Slide film can also be pushed, but it must be push *processed* as well.
  #17  
Old July 31st 07, 04:13 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Pudentame
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Posts: 1,139
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Richard Polhill wrote:
Gerard wrote:
Thanks to all for your enlightening replies.

I still got a question.Does that mean when I go through the developing
of the film I don't necessarily have to tell the developers that I
pushed or pulled the film or does that apply only to cases for high
ISO changes above a third as Pudentame says?

Gerard



yes yes yes you do have to tell them.

Read my other posts.

OK so C41 film has a very wide latitude and will cope with a stop or two
but the pictures will still end up crap if you don't overdevelop to
compensate.



One or two stops OVER-exposed, I can still pull a good print from the
negative. But if it's under-exposed, there ain't a thing I can do.

I *run* a mini-lab, and only process a few dozen rolls of C-41 every day.

Trust me on this. If it's 400 speed film and you shoot it at 200, I can
still give you good images.

If it's 400 speed film and you shoot it at 800, I'm gonna send you to
the PRO LAB downtown where I know they can handle push processing C41.
You ain't gonna' get it in one hour, but you WILL get your film back in
usable condition.

Same deal if it's anything other than C-41 film.

Where the break-down occurs is if you arrive at the lab when I'm not
there. I don't have good help, and the corporation won't fire the idiots
and let me hire good help.

It don't matter what it is; what you tell them; if you leave the film,
they'll send it through the film processor.

If it was pushed, it's going to come out WAY under-exposed. If it's E-6,
you're going to get some strange looking negatives. If it's Tri-X, T-Max
or Plus-X, it's going to get ruined and I'm going to have to listen to
my clowns whining about how "This lady said we ruined her film."

That's an actual quote - the customer dropped off a roll of Tri-X, and
my idiots sent it through the C41 processor.
  #18  
Old July 31st 07, 04:20 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Pudentame
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,139
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Richard Polhill wrote:
Gerard wrote:
Thanks to all for your enlightening replies.

I still got a question.Does that mean when I go through the developing
of the film I don't necessarily have to tell the developers that I
pushed or pulled the film or does that apply only to cases for high
ISO changes above a third as Pudentame says?

Gerard


High? That's a THIRD of a STOP. Almost no change.

Always inform the lab if you are making a change of a stop or two. And
believe me, if you want to make a difference then you'll need to make it
a whole stop or two.

Of course you can use it for 1/3 stop compensation, but that's what the
exposure compensation setting is for.


The reason I recommend using the DX over-ride to rate C41 film about 1/3
under (so it'll OVER-expose by about 1/3 stop) is I deal with thin
negatives all day long. I get roll after roll of film in that's got more
than half the images so underexposed I can't even see where the frame
edge is located so I can sleeve the negatives, much less get a print
from it.

An underexposed negative cannot give a good print. For some reason
people are more likely to underexpose than to over-expose.

I recommend setting the metering to compensate for this, which is what
over-riding the DX coding is doing.
  #19  
Old July 31st 07, 04:26 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Pudentame
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,139
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
Richard Polhill wrote:
Always inform the lab if you are making a change of a stop or two. And believe
me, if you want to make a difference then you'll need to make it a whole stop
or two.


That depends upon the lab. Don't expect a "one hour photo" type place
to be able to do anything. You may also pay significantly more for
developing.

Geoff.


Expect a "one hour photo" lab to say "Ok, ok" and run it through the
film processor "AS IS".

99 out of 100 won't know what you're talking about. Bring 'em a roll of
E-6 and they'll run that through there anyway.

Bring 'em a brand new roll with the leader hanging out, and 99 out of
100 won't even ask "Are you sure this film has been exposed?"

Had a customer bring me a bunch of one use cameras the other day, and
one of them was UN-USED; still showing 27 exposures left.

After the customer left, I had one of my clowns ask "Why'd you give that
camera back? I'd of just run it through."
  #20  
Old August 1st 07, 07:54 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Richard Polhill
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 447
Default ISO settings Minolta Dynax

Pudentame wrote:
Richard Polhill wrote:
Gerard wrote:
Thanks to all for your enlightening replies.

I still got a question.Does that mean when I go through the developing
of the film I don't necessarily have to tell the developers that I
pushed or pulled the film or does that apply only to cases for high
ISO changes above a third as Pudentame says?

Gerard



yes yes yes you do have to tell them.

Read my other posts.

OK so C41 film has a very wide latitude and will cope with a stop or
two but the pictures will still end up crap if you don't overdevelop
to compensate.



One or two stops OVER-exposed, I can still pull a good print from the
negative. But if it's under-exposed, there ain't a thing I can do.

I *run* a mini-lab, and only process a few dozen rolls of C-41 every day.

Trust me on this. If it's 400 speed film and you shoot it at 200, I can
still give you good images.


But who would purposely overexpose it? If they didn't want to underdevelop it
to get those ghostly low-contrast effects?

I'm sure you can correct a mistake, but this guy was asking about overriding
DX coding. He was wondering if he'd get the effect of a slow film by
overexposing it (no) or can he just underexpose it (not without overdeveloping
in the lab).

If it's 400 speed film and you shoot it at 800, I'm gonna send you to
the PRO LAB downtown where I know they can handle push processing C41.
You ain't gonna' get it in one hour, but you WILL get your film back in
usable condition.


Yeah thanks for agreeing with me.

Same deal if it's anything other than C-41 film.

Where the break-down occurs is if you arrive at the lab when I'm not
there. I don't have good help, and the corporation won't fire the idiots
and let me hire good help.

It don't matter what it is; what you tell them; if you leave the film,
they'll send it through the film processor.


Thanks for the advice. Where is your lab so I can avoid it?

If it was pushed, it's going to come out WAY under-exposed. If it's E-6,
you're going to get some strange looking negatives. If it's Tri-X, T-Max
or Plus-X, it's going to get ruined and I'm going to have to listen to
my clowns whining about how "This lady said we ruined her film."

That's an actual quote - the customer dropped off a roll of Tri-X, and
my idiots sent it through the C41 processor.


Which is why you always take anything BUT C-41 to a decent lab.
 




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