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#1
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Converting daylight film to tungsten
Do you find the use of an 80A satisfactory when using daylight film
with 3200 K lights ? Is there "something missing"? Would tungsten film be better? Why? I have not problem with the speed loss. Is you 80A the same color as mine. My Tiffen is bluer than my Nikon, which is slightly greener, and called incidentally a B12. |
#2
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Gregory Blank wrote: In article . com, wrote: I'll also add this insight. Something I knew but didn't utilize, so managed to forget, and that is reciprocity effects. Daylight film with a 80A filter will do well, until one starts shooting at 1/2 or less exposure. Because daylight film is optimized for higher speeds than tungsten, the lower speeds will not only lose exposure but will shift around color wise. I got more green, so I gather that means the red spectrum falls short. Funny because long reciprocity exposures at night go purply. My favorite word, for those interested in my personal quirks. It might work to find just the right color correction, but I'm going to just buy the tungsten, and work it out from there. There as too many other color problems, ( aging tungsten lamps, less than pure white diffusion materials, color shift bounce from setup ) to waste money trying to save money bu shooting with less expensive Provia F. I don't know a while back I was making three minute exposures with Provia 100F and and 80A with a 4x5 and the color shift was not appreciable. Try those counting 1 Mississippi. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 This is why newsgroup "information" has the characteristic curve of a roller coaster. So was the subject something of known color? I'm shooting food, and a color chart, and have so far gone yellow green. All I can guess at this point is aged tungsten bulbs and/or reciprocity shift. Nothing else occurs to me. The film was in the freezer, is not outdated, and as far as I know never saw high temps. Obviously I should buy a brick and zero the color in, but I'm a regular ass when it comes to doing things the right way. |
#4
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On 2005-01-13 11:35:51 -0600, Gregory Blank
said: In article . com, wrote: This is why newsgroup "information" has the characteristic curve of a roller coaster. So was the subject something of known color? I'm shooting food, and a color chart, and have so far gone yellow green. All I can guess at this point is aged tungsten bulbs and/or reciprocity shift. Nothing else occurs to me. The film was in the freezer, is not outdated, and as far as I know never saw high temps. Obviously I should buy a brick and zero the color in, but I'm a regular ass when it comes to doing things the right way. I have very good color sense, nothing bugs me more than color shift, 5cc in printing can drive me crazy. I think the tungsten might be the root of the problem an 80A but usually warmer lights it will work OK with. It could be even who is processing it. A white background will show that shift quickly,.....if you have any fluorescent ambient light anywhere turn it off. Sometimes because I use long exposures I see the green shift also mostly on white backgrounds, but its hard to nail down,....my thoughts could be the lab and could be the film......or light. With out a color temp meter its hard to pin down. Don't forget that the tungsten lamps' color temperature changes slightly over the life of the bulbs. They shift as they age... best argon |
#5
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On 2005-01-13 11:35:51 -0600, Gregory Blank
said: In article . com, wrote: This is why newsgroup "information" has the characteristic curve of a roller coaster. So was the subject something of known color? I'm shooting food, and a color chart, and have so far gone yellow green. All I can guess at this point is aged tungsten bulbs and/or reciprocity shift. Nothing else occurs to me. The film was in the freezer, is not outdated, and as far as I know never saw high temps. Obviously I should buy a brick and zero the color in, but I'm a regular ass when it comes to doing things the right way. I have very good color sense, nothing bugs me more than color shift, 5cc in printing can drive me crazy. I think the tungsten might be the root of the problem an 80A but usually warmer lights it will work OK with. It could be even who is processing it. A white background will show that shift quickly,.....if you have any fluorescent ambient light anywhere turn it off. Sometimes because I use long exposures I see the green shift also mostly on white backgrounds, but its hard to nail down,....my thoughts could be the lab and could be the film......or light. With out a color temp meter its hard to pin down. Don't forget that the tungsten lamps' color temperature changes slightly over the life of the bulbs. They shift as they age... best argon |
#6
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... nothing bugs me more than color shift, 5cc in printing
... can drive me crazy. ... My Tiffen is bluer than my Nikon, which is slightly ... greener, and called incidentally a B12. ... I have the same impression that a conversion filter ... 80A is different depending from what supplier it ... comes. I find color conversion filters work fine for color negative. For transparencies an 80x/85x is just a starting point. Sometimes the resulting slide shifts to the yellow, sometimes to the green, sometimes to the ... I found a complete set of CMY/RGB 5/10/20 cc filters to be a necessity. Luckily I bought them when wratten gels were $3.50 each. Nowadays a set would run ~$450 - today I think I would use Rosco gels on the lights instead. For daylight Ektachrome with tungsten photofloods I find the additional correction needed is consistently 5cc Magenta. It got so that I had B&W make one up in glass. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ |
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