If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
Is Ilford Rapid Fix at 1+4 with Fuji Acros for 6 mins not enough?
Fresh mix came out pink and film appears to be re-fixed... Any help? ML |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
Using a water stop?
MJL Photo wrote: Is Ilford Rapid Fix at 1+4 with Fuji Acros for 6 mins not enough? Fresh mix came out pink and film appears to be re-fixed... Any help? ML |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
I use 1+4 for 5 mins on acros 100 and agitate thoroughly for almost the
entire time. Don't seem to have a problem after rinsing 4 times (first rinse comes out relatively clear, second rinse comes out purple, third rinse almost clear, fourth is crystal). I'm using 1+19 ilford stop. (I'm still new to developing so take this FWIW) |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
On 1 Mar 2006 07:13:57 -0800, "Dave the Guy"
wrote: I use 1+4 for 5 mins on acros 100 and agitate thoroughly for almost the entire time. Don't seem to have a problem after rinsing 4 times (first rinse comes out relatively clear, second rinse comes out purple, third rinse almost clear, fourth is crystal). 35mm or 120? The 120's very heavily dyed, and will chew up fixing capacity like crazy. Are you reusing your fixer, or is this fresh? I've not had any problems fixing 135/36 Acros in Ilford Rapidfix with normal time/agitation. -- Rob on the Web - Trouble In Paradise http://rob.rnovak.net |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
Yes, it was 120. I reuse fixer but this batch was a fresh one.
The fixer changed back from pink to original colout a short while after. Should I only use the fixer in this situation once - even though it's back to the original colour? How many cycles should I reuse fixer in this situation? ML "Rob Novak" wrote in message ... On 1 Mar 2006 07:13:57 -0800, "Dave the Guy" wrote: I use 1+4 for 5 mins on acros 100 and agitate thoroughly for almost the entire time. Don't seem to have a problem after rinsing 4 times (first rinse comes out relatively clear, second rinse comes out purple, third rinse almost clear, fourth is crystal). 35mm or 120? The 120's very heavily dyed, and will chew up fixing capacity like crazy. Are you reusing your fixer, or is this fresh? I've not had any problems fixing 135/36 Acros in Ilford Rapidfix with normal time/agitation. -- Rob on the Web - Trouble In Paradise http://rob.rnovak.net |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
120. Everything is nice and fresh right off the tree. I only develop
a roll once or twice a week at most so I'm not looking to save much money by reusing chemicals. How is 135 acros compared to 120? |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
I don't mind water rinsing a couple of times and keeping the chemical
mixing to a minimum. It's different film, but I've been following Ilford's hp5+ recommendations by agitating a tank of water 5 times/dumping, agitating second tank 10 times/dumping, agitating last tank 20 times/dumping, and if needed (my own rules) agitating one last tank 10 times. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
On Thu, 02 Mar 2006 01:19:13 GMT, "MJL Photo"
wrote: Yes, it was 120. I reuse fixer but this batch was a fresh one. The fixer changed back from pink to original colout a short while after. Should I only use the fixer in this situation once - even though it's back to the original colour? How many cycles should I reuse fixer in this situation? By way of setting the parameters here, I develop in Jobo rotary tanks with 300ml of chemicals per load. Two 120 rolls or one 220 roll of Acros will exhaust 300ml of RapidFix 4+1 to the point where I wouldn't want to fix any futher 120-format Acros in it. The first time I tried this, the reused fixer wouldn't completely remove the dye from a subsequent set of 2 rolls of 135/36 PanF+. Normally, I'll use 300ml of RapidFix on up to 8 rolls of 135/36 PanF+ or HP5+, and 6 rolls of Delta. I'd recommend using it single-shot only. Fixer's cheap. -- Rob on the Web - Trouble In Paradise http://rob.rnovak.net |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
On 2 Mar 2006 06:01:38 -0800, "Dave the Guy"
wrote: How is 135 acros compared to 120? In what aspect? They're both excellent performers. Acros in 35mm is vastly superior to Delta100 or TMX in resolution, grain, and tonality, at least how I process them (Acros in Perceptol, Delta and TMX in DD-X). I love the stuff. It and PanF+ in Ilfosol-S 1+14 are becoming my go-to combinations for tight grain and tonal response. -- Rob on the Web - Trouble In Paradise http://rob.rnovak.net |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Ilford Rapid fix Q
"MJL Photo" wrote in message news:bm7Nf.82164$B94.48213@pd7tw3no... Is Ilford Rapid Fix at 1+4 with Fuji Acros for 6 mins not enough? Fresh mix came out pink and film appears to be re-fixed... Any help? ML It should be enough. Test the film for residual silver using the sulfide test. Kodak Residual Silver Test ST-1 Water 100.0 ml Sodium Sulfide, anhydrous 2.0 grams Place a drop or two of this solution on a clear area of the film and allow to remain for 2 minutes. Rinse off and blot. There should be no visible stain. The film should be wet but blotted when making the test. The solution lasts about 6 months in a filled, closed bottle. You can make this test on a clip of unexposed film. Soak the film in water for about 2 minutes and fix it as usual, then wash and test. Wetted film fixes at a different rate than dry film so the wetting step is important. To establish fixing time test as above using a clip of undeveloped but wetted film. Fix in dim light and see how long it takes to clear. Fix for twice this time. Make a test with fresh fixer and test it this way periodically, it is a pretty direct test of the amount of dissolved silver in the fixer. The old rule for single fixing baths is to discard them when the clearing time doubles. This is probably too long for paper but not for film. Fuji Acros is a tabular grain film similar to T-Max and Delta films. These films have an unusual amount of Silver Iodide in them. Sodium fixer is retarded by the accumulation of Iodide but Ammonium fixers are much less so. When using Sodium fixer a two bath system is really necessary. While the capacity of rapid fixer will be greater using a two bath system its ability to complete the fixing process despite the accumulation of silver ions is greater and two baths are not always necessary. I would not be concerned with a temporary stain in the used fixing bath. The stain on these films is caused by the sensitizing dyes used in the emulsions. It tends to be persistent. While it may bind to residual silver halide in the emulsion there appear to be other factors beside this. The use of a sulfite wash aid, or even a simple alkaline bath (2% Sodium carbonate, Sodium Metaborate, or even Borax) will remove it. If Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent is used follow the wash time instructions. I use 100T-Max and 400T-Max routinely. If treated with wash aid it comes out perfectly clear. BTW, tabular grain films fix out more easily than is sometimes stated. I tested with the use of a two bath Sodium Thiosulfate (conventional) fixing system and found that the Sulfide test shows no indication of residual silver after a total of around 12 minutes in the fixer (6 min in each bath). However, I did us wash aid which can make some residual silver complexes soluble which would otherwise remain in the emulsion. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Don't bother with Ilford paper & Canon i9950 | BenOne© | Digital Photography | 13 | December 1st 04 05:33 AM |
Press Release from Ilford | Largformat | Large Format Photography Equipment | 10 | August 27th 04 05:54 AM |
ilford pan 100 = ilford HP5 plus? | sreenath | In The Darkroom | 8 | July 5th 04 11:15 AM |
ilford rapid fixer | Beppe Alborč | In The Darkroom | 25 | June 24th 04 10:21 AM |