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#71
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Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos ?
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#72
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Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos ?
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#73
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Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos ?
In article , John Navas
wrote: also, luminous landscape's d30 versus film comparison had different fields of view in the two images, which gives the camera with the cropped field of view (the d30) a huge advantage. ... Not true, as the article makes clear. ok, i did miss the part where he says he changed the zoom to match, however, the film image has a noticably larger field of view than the d30, so he didn't do a very good job of it. he also says that the provia image is slightly taller because it has a different aspect ratio as the d30. canon's specs say the d30 sensor is 22.7 x 15.1mm, which is a ratio of 1.5033. thus, if the film had the same aspect ratio as the d30, it would be 23.95mm instead of 24mm. that's less than half a percent difference and hardly noticable. http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/c...-/2000_eos-d30. html?lang=us&categ=crn&page=1995-&p=2 |
#74
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Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos ?
Dave Martindale wrote:
"David J Taylor" writes: So how is it that images on my 13 x 10.5 inch display, with all of 1.3MP, appear perfectly sharp when viewed at 21 inches? Something to do with the pixels being sharp? Your monitor has a pixel pitch of about 1/100 inch. Viewed from 21 inches away, each pixel subtends about 1.6 arcmin. The finest cyclic pattern it can display is about 18 cycles per degree. Your eye's peak sensitivity is somewhere around 10 cycles/degree, so an image that resolves up to 18 cycles/degree is "pretty good". On the other hand, your resolution limit is about 60 cycles/degree, so if you gradually increased the resolution of your display from 100 PPI, you would see some improvement in the image quality until you reached somewhere above 300 PPI. And that's at 21 inches - up close, even more PPI would give a visible difference. Still, the quality of the image at 10 cycles/degree and below is a lot more important than what happens in the 10-60 cycles/degree range. Dave Dave, Thanks for that. I suspect that images described as "crisp" or whatever, have a relatively higher content at 10 cycles/degree. It's the difference between an MTF with a long tail (e.g. film, older lens design) compared to an MTF which is higher up to a certain spatial frequency and then a sharper cut-off (digital, anti-alias filter, modern lens design) together with the different noise spectrum and transfer linearity which characterises the "digital" versus the "film" image. Cheers, David |
#75
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Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos ?
On 11/22/07 2:34 PM, in article , "Peter Irwin" wrote: John Navas wrote: On Thu, 22 Nov 2007 19:57:50 +0000 (UTC), Peter Irwin wrote in : John Navas wrote: 1.5 ? diagonal, which comes from authorities I've cited, is actually conservative. I certainly look at my 8x10 prints from about a one foot distance. ... Then you need to adjust accordingly for yourself, and not presume to judge for everyone else. Um, You are the one who is presuming to judge for everyone else. I'm pointing out that my personal experience is that people of my acquaintance including myself do look closely at largish prints. Peter. You are dealing with a pompous asshole, just in case you didn't know. Just ask the folks at alt.cellular.cingular... |
#76
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Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos ?
On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 12:21:55 -0600, George Kerby
wrote in : You are dealing with a pompous asshole, just in case you didn't know. You've described yourself quite well. Just ask the folks at alt.cellular.cingular... Just ask the trolls and common bullies at alt.cellular.cingular... -- Best regards, John Navas Panasonic DMC-FZ8 (and several others) |
#77
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Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos ?
John Navas writes:
Um, what would you like a citation for? [SNIP hand waving] I'm forced to conclude you have no supporting citations. I provided references to all of the information needed to perform the calculation yourself, so you could duplicate my numbers, or identify where your calculation differs from mine. That's generally considered much more reliable than a pointer to someone somewhere who came up with the same numbers as I did. Web pages are of limited use as citations, because they often have errors (as does the one you pointed to). The same is true of textbooks to a lesser extent (since textbooks tend to get reviewed by someone). If you think there's a flaw in my numbers, point out the error yourself! If you can't write down and defend your own calculations, you're merely parroting someone else's web page. Dave |
#78
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Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos ?
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#79
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Print resolution (was: Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos?)
RealityByter writes:
Your resolution doesn't mean one damn thing if there's nothing in it worth conveying. If there's something in your data worth conveying than people will want to see it even at 640x480. This is the argument that everyone should use an Instamatic, or a Mavica, or whatever is the worst camera available at the time. For some subjects that's good enough. But most people will prefer a sharp photo of a subject compared to a blurry washed-out image of the same subject. There's also a long tradition in photography of caring about resolution and dynamic range and other things that affect image quality. This discussion is for that side of photography. If you don't happen to care about that side of photography, why not butt out of such discussions? Nobody cares what you think should and should not be called photography. My own photography is for me. I don't have the slightest interest in whether you win contests with your photography, because I'll never see your photographs, and I have no interest in "conveying" anything to you either. I am interested in talking about photographic quality with others who have similar interests, but no interest in the "what is art?" discussion. Dave |
#80
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Where are the BEST Point and Shoot Photos ?
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