|If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.|
||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
"Jim Bianchi" wrote in message
Well I finally gave it a try after someone gave me a .pdf file
'splaining it. It was on orphancameras.com all right. (I just needed a
kick inna hiney to actually look for it.) Anyway, the process is smiple
and straightforward. Never really having dealt w/polaroid camera's very
much, when I opened the back and saw alla these rollers and doors, I tho't
I'd have to thread the polaroid film thru them and such. No such thing was
needed tho. The polaroidish film pack just snaps right in. All that's
is care to ensure the various 'pull tabs' are not fouled or folded under.
Orphancameras.com can be a very helpful resource for older or off-beat photo
The reason for the doors, of course is to keep light out while allowing the
pull-tab to stick out, and the photo to be pulled out.
The reason for the rollers is more important: There is a "pod" of chemical
that developes the negative and transfers the image to the positive paper.
The rollers break open the pod and spread the chemical between the neg and
positive. If the image has regularly spaced spots on it, a piece of
something has stuck to a roller. If the long edges or trailing edge of the
picture is not fully developed, the rollers are not applying sufficient
pressure and the chemical is not being spread the full width/length of the
picture. Sometimes the chemical will leak out around the edges, and deposit
on the roller(s). When it dries, it causes a bump on the roller(s) that
causes the regualerly spaced spots.
The chemical reaction that developes the picture is temperature sensitive,
like many chemical reactions. In cold temperatures, a longer developing time
may be required, or you could put the picture 'sandwich' someplace warm to
develope. Early Polaroid instructions suggested putting it under your arm,
and included a metal holder for warming.
"Jim Bianchi" wrote in message
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 17:12:43 -0500, K W Hart wrote:
The chemical reaction that developes the picture is temperature
like many chemical reactions. In cold temperatures, a longer developing
time may be required, or you could put the picture 'sandwich' someplace
warm to develope. Early Polaroid instructions suggested putting it under
your arm, and included a metal holder for warming.
Question: As I understand it, using this film (Fujifilm FP-100b),
this process is begun once the pic has been pulled out through the
which then 'squish' the developer stuff and spread it over the pic. My
question is: How long is it recommended to wait until actually starting
process by pulling the tab out? I'm not talking days or even hours, rather
only several mins.
Since the developing process has not yet begun, seems to me you
should be able to keep the pic there for some time without any damage, nu?
The light hitting the film also causes a chemical reaction, albeit a very
weak one. The longer developing is delayed, the more the effect of that
delay will be. I suspect that minutes, perhaps even hours will have little
effect. Just for fun, why not take a shot, pull it out and develope it, then
take another shot and leave it in the pack for a day or two.
|Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Help needed, pls||jazu||Digital SLR Cameras||11||August 27th 09 11:09 PM|
|Help needed||Boring||Photographing Nature||0||June 12th 07 12:22 PM|
|Help needed||Boring||Digital ZLR Cameras||0||June 12th 07 12:21 PM|
|EVF - is 115,000 enough? Or is 205,000-230,000 really what is needed?||Paul D. Sullivan||Digital Photography||89||May 30th 07 04:24 AM|
|Needed||ColynG©||35mm Equipment for Sale||0||January 30th 05 12:52 AM|