What kind of flash arrangement for macro?

Generally, using built-in or regular camera top
flashes don't work well for close-in macro, too bright
and undirectable.
So would you rather use some kind of flash arragement
or ambient light like sunlight?
I know ring lights produce a shadowless picture, but that
seems to be more for documentation than "art" where you
might want shadows for effect.
-Rich

On Friday 29 April 2005 20:04, RichA wrote:

Generally, using built-in or regular camera top
flashes don't work well for close-in macro, too bright
and undirectable.
So would you rather use some kind of flash arragement
or ambient light like sunlight?
I know ring lights produce a shadowless picture, but that
seems to be more for documentation than "art" where you
might want shadows for effect.

A ring light mixed with daylight with daylight acting as the main source
and the ring light merely fills or accents is a good combo.

There is also a device with two low power, conventional, battery powered
flashes that can be set at various angles to allow modeling on the
subject that attaches to the front of the lens.

You can also used direct sunlight, a small diffusion scrim, and
reflectors to achieve appropriate lighting on your subject.

--
Stefan Patric
NoLife Polymath Group

RichA wrote:
Generally, using built-in or regular camera top
flashes don't work well for close-in macro, too bright
and undirectable.
So would you rather use some kind of flash arragement
or ambient light like sunlight?
I know ring lights produce a shadowless picture, but that
seems to be more for documentation than "art" where you
might want shadows for effect.
-Rich

If you are doing static/product shots, then a couple small softboxes
will work nicely. There are a lot of ways to do this. Either by making
a small light-tent and using strobes or continuous lights shining on the
side of the "tent", or using typical soft boxes over strobes or
continuous lights.

If you are doing more shots "on the go", then a large on-flash softbox
might be a good idea. Something large enough to disperse the light in
the short distance you need. The maximum size you can use will vary on
the vertical size of the flash, so the softbox won't block the sensors
on the flash. You can either make one (instructions are online) or use
something like an Ultrabounce (or any other of the great softboxes out
there). http://www.lumiquest.com/products.htm

--
Whatevah / Jerry Horn
Jerry {at} Whatevah.com (working address)
Freelance Photography and Web services.
spambait:

RichA wrote:


So would you rather use some kind of flash arragement
or ambient light like sunlight?


I don't care for most flash macro shots I've taken (or seen). They normally
have a bright subject and a totally black background. I suppose you could
do a 2 light setup and use one to illuminate the background? I've found I
get my best results using avalible light.

--

Stacey

"RichA" wrote in message
...
.
So would you rather use some kind of flash arragement
or ambient light like sunlight?

Ambient is always best

I know ring lights produce a shadowless picture, but that
seems to be more for documentation than "art" where you
might want shadows for effect.

The better ringlights can be switched to provide a varied light output for
modelling.
You can also get twin-head flashes that filter-mount.
Ideally you also need a remote flash to fill the background.

If you can still get them there is an inflatable reflector which is
transparent one one side with a white dish on the other. Your flash fits in
a velcro pocket facing the dish. These work surprisingly well on a remote
TTL lead. (I'm getting old and stupid so I can't recall the brand name.
Someone here might know.)

Flash results always look artificial, no matter how much effort you put in.
(Particularly when the subject is an insect, where the chitin will show
unatural bright highlights.)
If you want technical records this ain't a problem.
If you want natural beauty you need to work with available light.

"RichA" wrote in message
...
Generally, using built-in or regular camera top
flashes don't work well for close-in macro, too bright
and undirectable.
So would you rather use some kind of flash arragement
or ambient light like sunlight?
I know ring lights produce a shadowless picture, but that
seems to be more for documentation than "art" where you
might want shadows for effect.
-Rich

When possible, I always use ambient light amplified with a reflector. But
when that isn't enough, I use a portable flash off camera. I have long PC
cords that allow me to place the flash in a position that provides the
coverage I want, with my favorite being below and to the left of the camera.
In addition, the flash always has a diffuser or soft box attached.

I have been known to shoot 15 or 20 frames of the same subject, using
different flash positions, so that I get the effect I want. I also prefer a
telephoto macro if flash is going to be required. This reduces the risk of
the camera casting a shadow on the subject.

Walt

In message ,
Stacey wrote:

RichA wrote:


So would you rather use some kind of flash arragement
or ambient light like sunlight?

I don't care for most flash macro shots I've taken (or seen). They normally
have a bright subject and a totally black background. I suppose you could
do a 2 light setup and use one to illuminate the background? I've found I
get my best results using avalible light.

With any kind of serious magnification, the only available light that
can stop camera motion is direct sunlight. Your advice only works for
static subjects and a tripod, with any serious magnification.
--


John P Sheehy

Use whatever kind of lighting will give you the effect you want. Ring
flashes will give the best lighting, but if you want shadows, set up a
light wherever you want it, and turn off any flash you might have.

RichA wrote:
Generally, using built-in or regular camera top
flashes don't work well for close-in macro, too bright
and undirectable.
So would you rather use some kind of flash arragement
or ambient light like sunlight?
I know ring lights produce a shadowless picture, but that
seems to be more for documentation than "art" where you
might want shadows for effect.
-Rich

In message ,
"Tumbleweed" wrote:

If you can still get them there is an inflatable reflector which is
transparent one one side with a white dish on the other. Your flash fits in
a velcro pocket facing the dish. These work surprisingly well on a remote
TTL lead. (I'm getting old and stupid so I can't recall the brand name.
Someone here might know.)

Or, get yourself a few assistants to hold up white poster-boards that
have been sprayed with a matte finish, and bounce RC flash off of them.

Or, you could get a hughe posterboard with only holes for your arms and
your face in it, and mount a bunch of RC flashes facing it. Prepare for
questions from the police, of course.
--


John P Sheehy

RichA wrote:

Generally, using built-in or regular camera top
flashes don't work well for close-in macro, too bright
and undirectable.
So would you rather use some kind of flash arragement
or ambient light like sunlight?
I know ring lights produce a shadowless picture, but that
seems to be more for documentation than "art" where you
might want shadows for effect.

If the flashes have good power control, then they will not be too
bright. I believe the best in this regard are the top end Canon's that
can be set down to 1/128 power.

But the real problem is 1/r^2. The subject will be too bright at the
top and under exposed at the bottom.

So, next solution is to use two in wireless mode placed to each side.

Other solutions:

-difusion panels/reflectors to the sides and below (above)
-two flashes strapped to the lens
-longer FL macros that allow you to be further away and let more might
at the subject.

A Vivitar ringflash is about $100 - $125, so it's not that expensive ...
just not sure if the Vivitars will work well on digtital cameras.

Cheers,
Alan




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