fridge and heat problems

Here in South of Spain, we are experiencing very high temperatu
+-40°C/104°F. And I fear for my exposed films. Can I put those in the
fridge once exposed? Also, the room were I usually developped my b&w
films is at a temperature of 26°C/79°F. Do you think there is a danger
if i develop in this room in a bain-marie of 20°C/68°F. Rgds, Ed

Edwin wrote:
Here in South of Spain, we are experiencing very high temperatu
+-40=C2=B0C/104=C2=B0F. And I fear for my exposed films. Can I put thos=
e in the
fridge once exposed? Also, the room were I usually developped my b&w

I do this all the time.


films is at a temperature of 26=C2=B0C/79=C2=B0F. Do you think there is=
a danger
if i develop in this room in a bain-marie of 20=C2=B0C/68=C2=B0F. Rgds,=
Ed


A water bath will work just fine if you can keep the water cool. I have
the opposite problem with colour developing. What I do is fill a picnic
cooler with hot water and stick all the chemicals inside that. Something
insulted will change temp slower then just an open tray.
=20=20
Nick

Uzytkownik "Edwin" napisal w wiadomosci

Here in South of Spain, we are experiencing very high temperatu
+-40°C/104°F. And I fear for my exposed films. Can I put those in
the
fridge once exposed?
Despite living in a colder location, I always put the films I exposed
in the fridge, until I develop them. When you get ready to develop,
simply let them stand for a couple of hours after you take them out of
the fridge.

Regards
Magdalena

"Edwin" wrote in message
om...
Here in South of Spain, we are experiencing very high temperatu
+-40°C/104°F.

I can relate; here in Sacramento, California, it gets up to 120 F in the
summer. The best I can keep my darkroom is about 80 F. I keep all my films
in the freezer, both before I expose them, and after if there's going to be
a delay in processing.

If using open trays, you can buy those little reusable containers that you
freeze (or even water in a *partially* filled ziplock bag) and then put them
in the trays briefly. If you use hand-held daylight tanks, use a large
print tray as a "bath" to let the tank sit in when you are not aggitating
it.

I use a Jobo CPP-2 most of the time. With it an similar processors,
*partially* fill the chemistry bottles you are not using with water, and put
them in the freezer with the lids off (don't want them to rupture!). Then
put them where they'd normally sit in the processor. Within half an hour,
my temps are stabilized at 68 F +/- 0.1 F (my preferred temp). As long as
you make sure the ice doesn't all melt before you're done, it works fine,
and keeps your ice from jamming the tube motor. Open ice chunks are a very
bad thing!

-- Theo Benson, MA
Grizzly Glen Photography
www.chameleon.net/ursus

Same here, but one warning, put the exposed film rolls in an airtight
container or ZIP-lok type bag before chilling and let the package warm back
to room temp before processing, this will minimize condensation on the film
rolls.

Water baths work well, to cool the water you can either use ice in bags or
use empty PETE soda pop bottles filled with water and then frozen to cool
the bath. The bags are OK in the water bath but I always hesitate to apply
them directly to my solutions for fear of leaks and unwanted dilution of my
processing solutions.

--
darkroommike

----------
"Edwin" wrote in message
om...
Here in South of Spain, we are experiencing very high temperatu
+-40°C/104°F. And I fear for my exposed films. Can I put those in the
fridge once exposed? Also, the room were I usually developped my b&w
films is at a temperature of 26°C/79°F. Do you think there is a danger
if i develop in this room in a bain-marie of 20°C/68°F. Rgds, Ed

Edwin wrote:

Here in South of Spain, we are experiencing very high temperatu
+-40=B0C/104=B0F. And I fear for my exposed films. Can I put those in t=
he
fridge once exposed? Also, the room were I usually developped my b&w
films is at a temperature of 26=B0C/79=B0F. Do you think there is a dan=
ger
if i develop in this room in a bain-marie of 20=B0C/68=B0F. Rgds, Ed

Yes, it's okay to put your exposed film back in the fridge, as long as=20
you a) put it in a vapor-tight container, and b) let it warm before=20
opening the vapor barrier, to prevent condensation from damaging the=20
emulsion.

And you could develop most B&W materials at the ambient temperature of=20
26 C, all you'd have to do is shorten the process time to compensate for =

the increase in acitivity with temperature. If you do choose to chill=20
your solutions to 20 C, be aware that a small increase in temperature=20
from one solution to the next can cause reticulation, while decreases=20
generally don't; that is, it's better to have your stop and fixer=20
progressively cooler than to have them progressively warmer. Best of=20
all, work at a constant temperature (like that of the room).

--=20
I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz!
-- E. J. Fudd, 1954

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer
Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm
Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.

Nick Zentena wrote:

Edwin wrote:

Here in South of Spain, we are experiencing very high temperatu
+-40°C/104°F. And I fear for my exposed films. Can I put those in the
fridge once exposed? Also, the room were I usually developped my b&w


I do this all the time.



films is at a temperature of 26°C/79°F. Do you think there is a danger
if i develop in this room in a bain-marie of 20°C/68°F. Rgds, Ed



A water bath will work just fine if you can keep the water cool. I have
the opposite problem with colour developing. What I do is fill a picnic
cooler with hot water and stick all the chemicals inside that. Something
insulted will change temp slower then just an open tray.
^^^^^^^^

Nick

I think I will try what you describe. I have a picnic cooler and can cuss in
two languages fluently and can do a few epithets in a couple others.

Do you think I need to match the language to the country of origin of the
developer? I can't cuss worth a darn in German. Does that mean I should not
use Rodinal?

Bert very tongue-in-cheek

BertS wrote:


I think I will try what you describe. I have a picnic cooler and can cuss in
two languages fluently and can do a few epithets in a couple others.

Do you think I need to match the language to the country of origin of the
developer? I can't cuss worth a darn in German. Does that mean I should not
use Rodinal?


The problem is you'll need a german sense of humour-)))) Ilford products
are easy just watch plenty of Monty Python. I use D-23 and make sure I've
got the stooges on the TV.

Nick

"Nick Zentena" wrote
BertS wrote:

I can't cuss worth a darn in German.

The problem is you'll need a German sense of humour-)))

Now that is an intro....

I think it best to know "nothink" at this juncture.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.

Nick Zentena wrote:
BertS wrote:


I think I will try what you describe. I have a picnic cooler and can cuss in
two languages fluently and can do a few epithets in a couple others.

Do you think I need to match the language to the country of origin of the
developer? I can't cuss worth a darn in German. Does that mean I should not
use Rodinal?



The problem is you'll need a german sense of humour-)))) Ilford products
are easy just watch plenty of Monty Python. I use D-23 and make sure I've
got the stooges on the TV.

Nick

Well, there is always Schultz and Colonel Klink. If that is not suitable then
"I know nottink!"

Bert