i need some Kodabromide paper!

hey! does anyone know where i could buy some kodabromide paper???

On Mar 20, 7:43 pm, "emms1012" u32647@uwe wrote:
hey! does anyone know where i could buy some kodabromide paper???



No. Discontinued about 18 years ago.

In article . com, UC
wrote:

On Mar 20, 7:43 pm, "emms1012" u32647@uwe wrote:
hey! does anyone know where i could buy some kodabromide paper???



No. Discontinued about 18 years ago.


You know, about 20 years back i was inundated by high school kids
asking for a long-discontinued (Azo?) paper. Turns out the school
photography instructor required it for his class.

Called him up, and was told all his class notes were based on it. He
knew it was unavailable, but for another paper he'd have to revise his
notes. By continuing to require it, the KIDS were wrong (by not using
it), not him.

Scott Schuckert wrote:

Called him up, and was told all his class notes were based on it. He
knew it was unavailable, but for another paper he'd have to revise his
notes. By continuing to require it, the KIDS were wrong (by not using
it), not him.

Bangs head against wall.


Nice attitude.

Pete

--
http://www.petezilla.co.uk

emms1012 wrote:
hey! does anyone know where i could buy some kodabromide paper???


Freestyle sells bromide papers. Entering bromide in the search box
and selecting fiber based papers from the results give you 93 possibilites.
Perhaps one of them will be close enough for your needs.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_sea...mide&rfnc=504&

You can call or email them and ask for advice.

Geoff.


--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 Fax ONLY: 972-2-648-1443 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/

emms1012 wrote:
hey! does anyone know where i could buy some kodabromide paper???

I do not, but when I used it (in the early 1970s) I found it unsatisfactory
for most of my work. I was not very well informed in those days. Later I
found out its Dmax was about 1.7 wheras most other photo papers had a Dmax
almost 2 and many now have Dmax around 2.2 or 2.3.

So why would you want that stuff? If anyone still has any lying around, it
is probably fogged.

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"Jean-David Beyer" wrote

when I used [Kodabromide] (in the early 1970s) I found it unsatisfactory
for most of my work. I was not very well informed in those days. Later I
found out its Dmax was about 1.7

Kodabromide was very sensitive to developer dilution and age. It
would only work with Dektol 1:2 if the developer was _very_ fresh.
It went reliably to 2.1 with 1:1 or full-strength Dektol.
Developing time at 1:1 dilution had to be extended [up to 6 minutes]
if the developer was old.

If Kodabromide is specified for a class, look out. Any instructor
specifying Kodabromide in 2007 has his head very far up his
patooty. For fun get hold of an old empty KB box and fill it
with Ilford MC - bet he didn't know KB worked with VC filters.

most other photo papers had a Dmax
almost 2 and many now have Dmax around 2.2 or 2.3.

Ilford MGIV FB Warm-tone can hit 2.5. This is typical of many warm-tone
papers, with the exception of Forte. 2.5 is far more than needed unless
the print will be illuminated with a klieg light. Shadow detail in
warm tone paper is marvelous when the print is back illuminated.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http://www.darkroomautomation.com/index.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com

Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
"Jean-David Beyer" wrote

when I used [Kodabromide] (in the early 1970s) I found it unsatisfactory
for most of my work. I was not very well informed in those days. Later I
found out its Dmax was about 1.7

Kodabromide was very sensitive to developer dilution and age. It
would only work with Dektol 1:2 if the developer was _very_ fresh.

Kodak recommended 1:2 with D-72 and Dektol.

It went reliably to 2.1 with 1:1 or full-strength Dektol.

Possibly. According to their data sheets, Grade 5 would go up to 1.9, and
Grade 2 would make it barely up to 1.7 in Dektol 1:2 at 68F for 90 seconds,
and IIRC, this is about what I could get. BTW, to get the densities I list,
these were when the paper was completely shouldered off, and you probably
would not print that dark in those days.

Polycontrast paper, in those days would go to 2.2.

These are all for the F surface.

All this from the 1985 edition of their publication G-1.

Developing time at 1:1 dilution had to be extended [up to 6 minutes]
if the developer was old.

If Kodabromide is specified for a class, look out. Any instructor
specifying Kodabromide in 2007 has his head very far up his
patooty. For fun get hold of an old empty KB box and fill it
with Ilford MC - bet he didn't know KB worked with VC filters.

most other photo papers had a Dmax
almost 2 and many now have Dmax around 2.2 or 2.3.

Ilford MGIV FB Warm-tone can hit 2.5. This is typical of many warm-tone
papers, with the exception of Forte. 2.5 is far more than needed unless
the print will be illuminated with a klieg light. Shadow detail in
warm tone paper is marvelous when the print is back illuminated.



--
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"Jean-David Beyer" wrote
Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
"Jean-David Beyer" wrote
- lots of stuff about D-Max, Kodabromide and development -

Pedantic statement on D-Max for those who have joined us recently:

The whole D-Max thing can be a can of worms: to get to maximum
black the paper has to be _really_ overexposed, to such an extent
that a final print has no shadow detail. Visually it is when a
print from a step tablet has two blacks that can not be distinguished:
by that point a 0.3 stop (0.1 OD) density change in shadow detail
is compressed to nothing.

It is best to print for blacks of 2.0 and no more, by 2.0 the blacks
don't look any blacker under normal viewing conditions. But the higher
a paper's D-Max the straighter it's HD curve when it passes through
2.0 and hence more shadow _detail_.

A higher D-Max number for a paper equals more shadow detail.
A higher D-Max number for a paper does not equal blacker blacks.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http://www.darkroomautomation.com/index.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com

Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
"Jean-David Beyer" wrote
Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
"Jean-David Beyer" wrote
- lots of stuff about D-Max, Kodabromide and development -

Pedantic statement on D-Max for those who have joined us recently:

The whole D-Max thing can be a can of worms: to get to maximum
black the paper has to be _really_ overexposed, to such an extent
that a final print has no shadow detail. Visually it is when a
print from a step tablet has two blacks that can not be distinguished:
by that point a 0.3 stop (0.1 OD) density change in shadow detail
is compressed to nothing.

It is best to print for blacks of 2.0 and no more, by 2.0 the blacks
don't look any blacker under normal viewing conditions. But the higher
a paper's D-Max the straighter it's HD curve when it passes through
2.0 and hence more shadow _detail_.

A higher D-Max number for a paper equals more shadow detail.
A higher D-Max number for a paper does not equal blacker blacks.

What I do to get closer to the paper's Dmax is to expose my film by one
stop. I.e., I get a net density of about 0.9 for Zone V with normal
development. Usually the Zone I density comes in about 0.25 to 0.3 instead
of the 0.1 that Ansel Adams used to use. But when he was working, a Dmax for
paper above about 2 was unusual. Also, films in those days tended to have a
shoulder somewhere about Zone IX. Modern films do not have a shoulder
anywhere near where you would be likely to use them. Thus, unless you cannot
get a faster film and have no light, it is quite practical to "overexpose"
your film by about one stop. With this procedure, I do not lack in shadow
detail, and I do get blacker blacks.

--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
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