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Hi All
I have just used a Kodak Tmax 100 pro film, It's use by date was May 1997, and developed it in Ilford DDX and the results were stunning. Very smooth with nice contrast. How long can film be left after it's use by date, and still have acceptable results Thanks in Advance Lofty |
#2
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"Peter" wrote in message ... On Oct 11, 7:43 pm, "lofty" wrote: Hi All I have just used a Kodak Tmax 100 pro film, It's use by date was May 1997, and developed it in Ilford DDX and the results were stunning. Very smooth with nice contrast. How long can film be left after it's use by date, and still have acceptable results Thanks in Advance Lofty Time and temperature matter. At cool room temperature (60 - 68 F), I find that there is not much change in ten years. I see a slight change in base fog and some change in speed (don't have my notes in front of me). In 25 years, there is a definite increase in base fog and further loss in speed. In some cases older film is unusable, but I'm less sure of the storage that film received. Generally, 10 year old film is not a worry, but a little more exposure is a good idea; older than that needs a test. If it has been more carefully stored (e.g., frozen) those times seem to extend somewhat. I also find that faster film seems to deteriorate more rapidly. thanks Peter. |
#3
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"Shiva Das" wrote in message ... The only followup I would add is if the film is frozen (like my 20-year-old Plus-X sheet film) more damage can be done from condensation due to improper thawing than from age. (Yes, my bad on 25-year-old Verichrome Pan 2-1/4 to my great regret.) I've been advised not to freeze B/W film if a stable temperature/humidity condition can be maintained, but YMMV. -- om shanti shanti shanti I'd like to know what you mean by "improper thawing". I've got lots of frozen film. What did you do wrong - open it before it was fully thawed? alecj |
#4
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"Shiva Das" wrote
The only followup I would add is if the film is frozen ... more damage can be done from condensation due to improper thawing than from age Can you post an example showing condensation damage? -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com |
#5
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"Alec Jones" wrote in message . .. I'd like to know what you mean by "improper thawing". I've got lots of frozen film. What did you do wrong - open it before it was fully thawed? alecj The recommendation is to not open the sealed foil package or plastic can until the film has come up to room temperature. I vaguely recall a chart from Kodak listing 'thaw' times for different packaging types-- a box of 100 sheets of 8x10 film would require longer to thaw than a single roll of 24 exposure 35mm film. I've never seen an instance of damage due to condensation, but then I've never tempted fate by taking film from the freezer straight to the camera. I would suspect that the damage would be that moisture condensing on the surface of the film could cause it to stick to an adjacent layer of film or to areas of the camera that contact the film. |
#6
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In article ,
Ken Hart1 wrote: "Alec Jones" wrote in message ... I'd like to know what you mean by "improper thawing". I've got lots of frozen film. What did you do wrong - open it before it was fully thawed? alecj The recommendation is to not open the sealed foil package or plastic can until the film has come up to room temperature. I vaguely recall a chart from Kodak listing 'thaw' times for different packaging types-- a box of 100 sheets of 8x10 film would require longer to thaw than a single roll of 24 exposure 35mm film. Despite the sealed packaging, Kodak recommends against frozen storage for a number of types of color materials. Look up their current recommendations on storage and handling of color process control strips; they found problems several years ago evidently caused by freezing, and now recommend against it. -- Thor Lancelot Simon "Even experienced UNIX users occasionally enter rm *.* at the UNIX prompt only to realize too late that they have removed the wrong segment of the directory structure." - Microsoft WSS whitepaper |
#7
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"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote in message m... "Shiva Das" wrote The only followup I would add is if the film is frozen ... more damage can be done from condensation due to improper thawing than from age Can you post an example showing condensation damage? -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com I've had condensation damage on printing paper opened too soon. It took the form of blotches in the form of droplets. I tossed this stuff so I don't have anything to scan. -- -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#8
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In article ,
"Ken Hart1" wrote: "Alec Jones" wrote in message . .. I'd like to know what you mean by "improper thawing". I've got lots of frozen film. What did you do wrong - open it before it was fully thawed? alecj The recommendation is to not open the sealed foil package or plastic can until the film has come up to room temperature. I vaguely recall a chart from Kodak listing 'thaw' times for different packaging types-- a box of 100 sheets of 8x10 film would require longer to thaw than a single roll of 24 exposure 35mm film. I've never seen an instance of damage due to condensation, but then I've never tempted fate by taking film from the freezer straight to the camera. I would suspect that the damage would be that moisture condensing on the surface of the film could cause it to stick to an adjacent layer of film or to areas of the camera that contact the film. Standard rule of thumb from the refrigerator is 4 hours. Frozen I would say 24 hours minimum. -- Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back. |
#9
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"Ken Hart1" wrote
I've never seen an instance of damage due to condensation, but then I've never tempted fate by taking film from the freezer straight to the camera. I've never seen an instance either, and I have been making a point of tempting fate by taking film directly from the freezer to the camera or film holder. I even breathe on the film and the inside of the camera while loading in hopes something will happen - but no joy. I have not opened a stack of paper straight from the freezer so I can't comment there. And the freezer I use is the freezer on the top of the 'fridge that sits at 0F, not a -40F/C deep-freeze. IMO, the 'wait two hours' before loading film from the freezer is in the same vein as 'wait two hours after lunch before swimming.' There may be cases where it is valid, but it is 99% old wive's tail. Kodak's numbers seem to be 2x the time it takes for a roll of film to come to temperature equilibrium - a nice number, but so what? I think folks get mildly hysterical about it because it is something that is safe to fuss over - nothing bad ever happens - and some people just like to fuss. A bit of Polonius in all of us. I think I'll put a fresh box of paper in the freezer, though ... -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com |
#10
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In article ,
Nicholas O. Lindan wrote: I think folks get mildly hysterical about it because it is something that is safe to fuss over - nothing bad ever happens - and some people just like to fuss. A bit of Polonius in all of us. I think I'll put a fresh box of paper in the freezer, though ... Kodak also recommends against freezing their factory-exposed process control strips for C41. I don't know about E6. If you can find the document on the Kodak web site from when they changed the recommendation about four or five years ago, it actually discusses the experimental basis for this and gives some (very slight) detail on changes in their emulsions that they believe led to the change in performance after freezing. Of course, this is _preexposed_ film meant to give predictable sensiometric results after weeks or even months of storage. That's some major serious voodoo going on there -- an electron knocked from this orbit to that orbit as the substrate changes phase could change a lot more than you'd think -- and unexposed film is unquestionably much more forgiving. -- Thor Lancelot Simon "Even experienced UNIX users occasionally enter rm *.* at the UNIX prompt only to realize too late that they have removed the wrong segment of the directory structure." - Microsoft WSS whitepaper |
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