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#21
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narke wrote:
I can understand that, things I do not understand are those divide symbal and numbers after them. I also do not understand the "1x127", is it a film format? Yes. 127 is the old vest-pocket format. It is largely obsolete and I think only EFKE still makes the film, but there are a large number of nice old cameras which take the 46mm wide rollfilm. If I rotate the rod fully a circle, is it still worse than the inversion? I'm sure it is possible to get good results that way. If you prefer that method, then I wouldn't change it unless you see signs of uneven development. But I also wouldn't worry about a slight leak from a plastic tank. Plastic tanks tend to leak a bit, it may help to put the cap on slowly. Some people have a nasty skin reaction from contact with metol and other developing agents. Other people use their bare hands in print developers for years with no evident problems. I used to do that when I was a kid, I didn't know that it wasn't a good idea. If you get developer on your hands, it is a good idea to wash it off right away. If you are really worried, or are using one of the more toxic developers, you can protect yourself with gloves. Peter. -- |
#22
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narke wrote:
I can understand that, things I do not understand are those divide symbal and numbers after them. I also do not understand the "1x127", is it a film format? Yes. 127 is the old vest-pocket format. It is largely obsolete and I think only EFKE still makes the film, but there are a large number of nice old cameras which take the 46mm wide rollfilm. If I rotate the rod fully a circle, is it still worse than the inversion? I'm sure it is possible to get good results that way. If you prefer that method, then I wouldn't change it unless you see signs of uneven development. But I also wouldn't worry about a slight leak from a plastic tank. Plastic tanks tend to leak a bit, it may help to put the cap on slowly. Some people have a nasty skin reaction from contact with metol and other developing agents. Other people use their bare hands in print developers for years with no evident problems. I used to do that when I was a kid, I didn't know that it wasn't a good idea. If you get developer on your hands, it is a good idea to wash it off right away. If you are really worried, or are using one of the more toxic developers, you can protect yourself with gloves. Peter. -- |
#23
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Peter Irwin wrote,
it may help to put the cap on slowly. ? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak reducing? - narke |
#24
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Peter Irwin wrote,
it may help to put the cap on slowly. ? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak reducing? - narke |
#25
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Peter Irwin wrote,
it may help to put the cap on slowly. ? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak reducing? - narke |
#26
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Thanks. I decide to use 400cc for the suggestion of 375cc.
- narke Hallo Narke, for the agitation or inversion I prefer total spinning of the tank for x times (x is what you like, i'm on 10 times every 60") The agitation that I do is gentle but firm: hold the bottom strongly with your hand and turn it upside down gently but constantly the x times you decided. After that, to pdiloge bubbles created inside tha tank knock your tank against your lab table. Sorry for my english, I hope my words can be helpful the same!:-D Ciao, Stefano Bramato -- ed io imparo... |
#27
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Thanks. I decide to use 400cc for the suggestion of 375cc.
- narke Hallo Narke, for the agitation or inversion I prefer total spinning of the tank for x times (x is what you like, i'm on 10 times every 60") The agitation that I do is gentle but firm: hold the bottom strongly with your hand and turn it upside down gently but constantly the x times you decided. After that, to pdiloge bubbles created inside tha tank knock your tank against your lab table. Sorry for my english, I hope my words can be helpful the same!:-D Ciao, Stefano Bramato -- ed io imparo... |
#28
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narke wrote:
Peter Irwin wrote, it may help to put the cap on slowly. ? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak reducing? I'm not sure. It definitely seems to work better with the older style Paterson tanks. Maybe the air pressure from putting the top cap on quickly breaks the seal between the tank body and the lid. t is certainly worth a try. Peter. -- |
#29
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narke wrote:
Peter Irwin wrote, it may help to put the cap on slowly. ? it heard a bit weird. Why slowly put on the cap helps in leak reducing? I'm not sure. It definitely seems to work better with the older style Paterson tanks. Maybe the air pressure from putting the top cap on quickly breaks the seal between the tank body and the lid. t is certainly worth a try. Peter. -- |
#30
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Stefano Bramato wrote,
The agitation that I do is gentle but firm: hold the bottom strongly with your hand and turn it upside down gently but constantly the x times you decided. After that, to pdiloge bubbles created inside tha tank knock your tank against your lab table. Ddi you mean you tap the tank everytime after an agitation? I often see people on the forum do the tap only once just after(or before) the initial agitation. Which method is better? It should be a consequence that agitation itself can produce bubbles if tap tank is necessary in every agitation. - narke |
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