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#1
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the no cost 'DIY only' approach - converting slides and neg's todigital ...
have the following problem, but no funds:
quickly and at no cost converting hundreds of 35mm neg's (cut to '5 negs per strip') and also 35mm slides (similar quantities), to digital images, hopefully at ZERO cost have the following equipment, and skills: good digital camera, with 'base to tripod/mount' ability, a good tripod, a 'working good' slide projector, a film and slide scanner (LS-1000 nikon, but it's *painfully* slow, and the software is 'dicey at best'). also have an extensive wood and metalworking background, plus all tools and supplies neccessary... first "mind flash": project slides onto white wall (or da-lite screen, if I had one), then use digi-cam to take pix of results (some minor image distortion might result; one end of image bigger/wider than the other, right? 2nd "mind flash": similar approach, but to eliminate the above 'too big@one side' image problem: project slides onto a piece of finely-ground window glass (have all the abrasives) arranged thus: camera ---------- | ------------- slide projector (the | above is the ground glass, upright/square/centered) in a dark room, suitable light shields employed) I'm -guessing- that, in the 'old days' there was such a thing as a 'film strip' projector (very similar to a slide projector). I have photo apps that'll do the 'color swapping' and 'end to end' flipping, to make the neg images positive/correct in relation. also, 3rd "mind flash": would it be possible to project the slide images onto a wall, or screen at an 'intentionally unsquare in relation' screen angle, so that when I use the digi-cam, I'd 'reverse compensate the angle' and get rid of the parallel/big-ended final image problem on the end results, withOUT having to use the 'ground glass intermediate' step? ok, how 'bout this, my 'half a periscope' idea: project images onto a mirror at 45 degrees to camera center line, with camera at the 'other' 45 degrees? or would that put me back into "way off at one end size of the image" city again? anybody ever tried any of these approaches? or are there any better, simpler, cheaper (or possibly more harebrained) ideas out there? if any of these ideas are workable, ANY of 'em would be -vastly- faster than my old slide scanner... come on - break loose with those ideas, guys :-) toolie --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- if reply by e-mail, pls remove the 'weirdstuff' from my address prior to clcking send. thanks --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- |
#2
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the no cost 'DIY only' approach - converting slides and neg's to digital ...
"dave" a écrit dans le message de news:
Am84f.488$AO5.269@dukeread01... have the following problem, but no funds: quickly and at no cost converting hundreds of 35mm neg's (cut to '5 negs per strip') and also 35mm slides (similar quantities), to digital images, hopefully at ZERO cost have the following equipment, and skills: good digital camera, with 'base to tripod/mount' ability, a good tripod, a 'working good' slide projector, a film and slide scanner (LS-1000 nikon, but it's *painfully* slow, and the software is 'dicey at best'). also have an extensive wood and metalworking background, plus all tools and supplies neccessary... Doesn't the "good digital camera" have a macro function ? If so, maybe could you try the following one ? O --- Camera --- --- Slide/Film strip ___ --- "finely-ground window glass" you already have ;-) O --- Light source Laurent -- Tell us, it's an interesting topic imho -- = http://www.laurent-roy.com = |
#3
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the no cost 'DIY only' approach - converting slides and neg's to digital ...
If you want to work at speed a slide projector is a good idee.
But it is very difficult to get an even illumination. (It's fast, it's cheap, but it's not good). To square the picture is fairly easy. Project the picture strait on the wall. And aim the camera strait on the wall. Problem the camera can not be in the same place (or same line) as the projector. So offset the camera with the amount needed and zoom out so that the slide is included completely in the frame. Yes now you have black borders of different sizes around the picture, you have to crop these. (This cropping can be done in a batch). Do not expect great quality with this method. ben brugman "dave" schreef in bericht news:Am84f.488$AO5.269@dukeread01... have the following problem, but no funds: quickly and at no cost converting hundreds of 35mm neg's (cut to '5 negs per strip') and also 35mm slides (similar quantities), to digital images, hopefully at ZERO cost have the following equipment, and skills: good digital camera, with 'base to tripod/mount' ability, a good tripod, a 'working good' slide projector, a film and slide scanner (LS-1000 nikon, but it's *painfully* slow, and the software is 'dicey at best'). also have an extensive wood and metalworking background, plus all tools and supplies neccessary... first "mind flash": project slides onto white wall (or da-lite screen, if I had one), then use digi-cam to take pix of results (some minor image distortion might result; one end of image bigger/wider than the other, right? 2nd "mind flash": similar approach, but to eliminate the above 'too big@one side' image problem: project slides onto a piece of finely-ground window glass (have all the abrasives) arranged thus: camera ---------- | ------------- slide projector (the | above is the ground glass, upright/square/centered) in a dark room, suitable light shields employed) I'm -guessing- that, in the 'old days' there was such a thing as a 'film strip' projector (very similar to a slide projector). I have photo apps that'll do the 'color swapping' and 'end to end' flipping, to make the neg images positive/correct in relation. also, 3rd "mind flash": would it be possible to project the slide images onto a wall, or screen at an 'intentionally unsquare in relation' screen angle, so that when I use the digi-cam, I'd 'reverse compensate the angle' and get rid of the parallel/big-ended final image problem on the end results, withOUT having to use the 'ground glass intermediate' step? ok, how 'bout this, my 'half a periscope' idea: project images onto a mirror at 45 degrees to camera center line, with camera at the 'other' 45 degrees? or would that put me back into "way off at one end size of the image" city again? anybody ever tried any of these approaches? or are there any better, simpler, cheaper (or possibly more harebrained) ideas out there? if any of these ideas are workable, ANY of 'em would be -vastly- faster than my old slide scanner... come on - break loose with those ideas, guys :-) toolie --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- if reply by e-mail, pls remove the 'weirdstuff' from my address prior to clcking send. thanks --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- |
#4
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the no cost 'DIY only' approach - converting slides and neg's to digital ...
dave wrote:
have the following problem, but no funds: quickly and at no cost converting hundreds of 35mm neg's (cut to '5 negs per strip') and also 35mm slides (similar quantities), to digital images, hopefully at ZERO cost Some years ago, I made this rig for my Nikon 950: http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/copystand.jpg An inexpensive light box, card stock mask with two-sided corner guide for the slides, and a plywood bridge to hold the camera. The bridge also helped keep ambient light off the top surface of the slide. Once set up, I could just slip the slide into the corner, and press the shutter button. Very fast, and no problem with alignment between slides. -- Email reply: please remove one letter from each side of "@" Spammers are Scammers. Exterminate them. |
#6
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the no cost 'DIY only' approach - converting slides and neg's to digital ...
"Laurent" wrote:
The light box looks a bit small to me : It's better when the light source is not too close to the slide/strip... The bridge also helped keep ambient light off the top surface of the slide. Painted black would have been better... I reviewed a few in the store, where they had them plugged in. I picked the one with the most even light in the center area. Also, I painted the bottom of the mask white, to reflect light back inside, which helps the brightness a bit. Good idea on painting the interior of the bridge though, it would prevent any stray light from the slide itself reflecting back onto the surface. -- Email reply: please remove one letter from each side of "@" Spammers are Scammers. Exterminate them. |
#7
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the no cost 'DIY only' approach - converting slides and neg's to digital ...
"Laurent" wrote in
: Doesn't the "good digital camera" have a macro function ? If so, maybe could you try the following one ? O --- Camera --- --- Slide/Film strip ___ --- "finely-ground window glass" you already have ;-) O --- Light source The potential problem here is the lens probably isn't flat field. If you focus on the center, the edges will be out of focus. But it's worth a try. Bob -- Delete the inverse SPAM to reply |
#8
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the no cost 'DIY only' approach - converting slides and neg's to digital ...
"Ben Brugman" wrote in
: If you want to work at speed a slide projector is a good idee. But it is very difficult to get an even illumination. (It's fast, it's cheap, but it's not good). That's not a problem though, as long as it's consistent. Just shoot a test exposure on a blank frame and build a Photoshop script to fix it. You can correct any perspective problem at the same time. Bob -- Delete the inverse SPAM to reply |
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