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Lense for Canon 30d
I am looking to buy the Canon 70 - 200 f/2.8 USM lense. I mainly
shoot sports (volleyball, cycling) and I was wondering if I need to spend the extra $500 bucks and get the IS USM version? Isn't the IS mainly for slower shutter speeds anyway? Thanks for any help you can provide. Rick "We don't slow down because we get old, we get old because we slow down!" |
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Lense for Canon 30d
wrote in message oups.com... I am looking to buy the Canon 70 - 200 f/2.8 USM lense. I mainly shoot sports (volleyball, cycling) and I was wondering if I need to spend the extra $500 bucks and get the IS USM version? Isn't the IS mainly for slower shutter speeds anyway? Thanks for any help you can Right, if you are shooting to stop action, you will never use the IS. You might use IS Mode "2" to help you with panning but I never do. It always seems to "correct" at the wrong time and ruin the flow of my pan. |
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Lens for Canon 30d
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Lense for Canon 30d
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#5
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Lense for Canon 30d
added these comments in the current discussion du jour ...
I am looking to buy the Canon 70 - 200 f/2.8 USM lense. I mainly shoot sports (volleyball, cycling) and I was wondering if I need to spend the extra $500 bucks and get the IS USM version? Isn't the IS mainly for slower shutter speeds anyway? Thanks for any help you can provide. 200mm is getting into a long telephoto. Is the aperture still f/2.8 at that end? My two Canon shorter zooms get smaller the longer the focal length. Yes, you are correct that IS is to minimize shake at slower shutter speeds, but the longer the tele, the higher the shutter must be in general, and if light is not bright daylight where you can get both a decent shutter speed and a good aperture for what you want to do, then you might be forced to up the ISO. My subjects don't move, they're cars parked at a show or in a museum, but you're shooting moving objects which means you are likely panning to get the shot you want. Hence, the camera is in motion whilst doing this. My lenses don't have IS but I can see some reasons why you MAY want it. Smokey the Bear's "Only YOU can prevent forest fires applies here", meaning only you know your needs and wants. Another consideration using myself as the guinea pig, as I've aged and suffered from energy-sapping illness, I find that I am more and more unsteady with my Canon Rebel XT. Not enough to get shake, but again, I'm not shooting moving things. So, how steady are your hands? -- HP, aka Jerry |
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Lense for Canon 30d
just bob added these comments in the current discussion du jour
.... wrote in message oups.com... I am looking to buy the Canon 70 - 200 f/2.8 USM lense. I mainly shoot sports (volleyball, cycling) and I was wondering if I need to spend the extra $500 bucks and get the IS USM version? Isn't the IS mainly for slower shutter speeds anyway? Thanks for any help you can Right, if you are shooting to stop action, you will never use the IS. You might use IS Mode "2" to help you with panning but I never do. It always seems to "correct" at the wrong time and ruin the flow of my pan. I was thinking about panning with an intentionally slow shutter o blur the background to give the feeling of motion, and I was also thinking of when the day is overcast, or early morning/evening. -- HP, aka Jerry |
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Lense for Canon 30d
HEMI-Powered wrote:
added these comments in the current discussion du jour ... I am looking to buy the Canon 70 - 200 f/2.8 USM lense. I mainly shoot sports (volleyball, cycling) and I was wondering if I need to spend the extra $500 bucks and get the IS USM version? Isn't the IS mainly for slower shutter speeds anyway? Thanks for any help you can provide. 200mm is getting into a long telephoto. Is the aperture still f/2.8 at that end? Of course! (After all, most L lenses do that.) -Wolfgang |
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Lense for Canon 30d
Wolfgang Weisselberg added these comments in the current
discussion du jour ... I am looking to buy the Canon 70 - 200 f/2.8 USM lense. I mainly shoot sports (volleyball, cycling) and I was wondering if I need to spend the extra $500 bucks and get the IS USM version? Isn't the IS mainly for slower shutter speeds anyway? Thanks for any help you can provide. 200mm is getting into a long telephoto. Is the aperture still f/2.8 at that end? Of course! (After all, most L lenses do that.) That is what I have, Wolfgang, two L-glass lenses. On mine, the longer the focal length, the smaller the max aperture, so I thought it was a relevant question to ask. In my case I asked the store manager to recommend image quality over IS. In my younger days with a 1969 Nikon FTN, my longest lens was a 200, a non-Nikon crappy zoom. It was huge and heavy and a bear to use without getting camera shake even at that range. I looked into 300mm and 500mm mirror lenses and decided the price-benefit ratio wasn't there and it would exacerbate problems I was already having with getting enough shutter speed with ASA 25 KodaChrome. Today, presumeably, one can go to very high ISO to get around that. I cannot personally because my early testing of my Rebel shows that it is noisy as low as 400, difficult to fix at 800 and completely useless to me at 1600. Now, since I know nothing specific about the OP's prospective lens, I have no clue if it does or does not hold its large aperture, but I cannot recall any digital I've own that did that as I went further into telephoto. So, are you simply confirming my question, or trying to make a fool of me? -- HP, aka Jerry |
#9
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Lense for Canon 30d
HEMI-Powered wrote:
Wolfgang Weisselberg added these comments in the current I am looking to buy the Canon 70 - 200 f/2.8 USM lense. I 200mm is getting into a long telephoto. Is the aperture still f/2.8 at that end? Of course! (After all, most L lenses do that.) That is what I have, Wolfgang, two L-glass lenses. On mine, the longer the focal length, the smaller the max aperture, so I thought it was a relevant question to ask. It is a relevant question, but easily solved by looking up the lens in question. The only L lenses with variable aperture I am aware of are the superzooms (e.g. 28-300 f/3.5-5-6) and the 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 (which is already a 4x zoom). As you can see by the notation, it is clear which ones are of variable aperture. In my case I asked the store manager to recommend image quality over IS. IS means more elements (which also means flares happen easier, but that's what a lens hood is for). The degradation of the image should not be visible at all, but conduct your own experiments. However, once you shoot slower times than you can hold steady, IS is worth it's weight in gold. OTOH, if you want maximum image quality, maybe a fixed focal lens like the 200mm f/2.8 L might be a better (and certainly cheaper) choice. On the gripping hand, the 70-200 is a very good zoom. BTW: watch the weight. The beast ain't light. Today, presumeably, one can go to very high ISO to get around that. I cannot personally because my early testing of my Rebel shows that it is noisy as low as 400, difficult to fix at 800 and completely useless to me at 1600. Uh, you are comparing that to what? Or rather, how huge are your prints and do you have people use loupes on them? Personally, I don't mind pushing 1600 a stop or two, if that's what it takes. Now, since I know nothing specific about the OP's prospective lens, I have no clue if it does or does not hold its large aperture, but I cannot recall any digital I've own that did that as I went further into telephoto. Very common with point&shoot cameras, common with midrange (D)SLR lenses --- but uncommon with L lenses, which the 70-200 (all 4 of them) certainly are. -Wolfgang |
#10
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Lense for Canon 30d
Wolfgang Weisselberg added these comments in the current
discussion du jour ... Of course! (After all, most L lenses do that.) That is what I have, Wolfgang, two L-glass lenses. On mine, the longer the focal length, the smaller the max aperture, so I thought it was a relevant question to ask. It is a relevant question, but easily solved by looking up the lens in question. The only L lenses with variable aperture I am aware of are the superzooms (e.g. 28-300 f/3.5-5-6) and the 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 (which is already a 4x zoom). I have two with variable apertures: 17-40mm and 24-70mm. Also, my Sigma 18-125 is also variable. As you can see by the notation, it is clear which ones are of variable aperture. In my case I asked the store manager to recommend image quality over IS. IS means more elements (which also means flares happen easier, but that's what a lens hood is for). The degradation of the image should not be visible at all, but conduct your own experiments. However, once you shoot slower times than you can hold steady, IS is worth it's weight in gold. OTOH, if you want maximum image quality, maybe a fixed focal lens like the 200mm f/2.8 L might be a better (and certainly cheaper) choice. On the gripping hand, the 70-200 is a very good zoom. BTW: watch the weight. The beast ain't light. My longer lens is a beast that ways almost two full pounds and is huge! Today, presumeably, one can go to very high ISO to get around that. I cannot personally because my early testing of my Rebel shows that it is noisy as low as 400, difficult to fix at 800 and completely useless to me at 1600. Uh, you are comparing that to what? Or rather, how huge are your prints and do you have people use loupes on them? No, I meant that one can create higher DOF by stopping down but to do that in any finite amount of light means either longer exposure times or higher ISO or both. Which one uses is a matter of judgment and experience. Personally, I don't mind pushing 1600 a stop or two, if that's what it takes. Now, since I know nothing specific about the OP's prospective lens, I have no clue if it does or does not hold its large aperture, but I cannot recall any digital I've own that did that as I went further into telephoto. Very common with point&shoot cameras, common with midrange (D)SLR lenses --- but uncommon with L lenses, which the 70-200 (all 4 of them) certainly are. -Wolfgang -- HP, aka Jerry |
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