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Wimberly or Mongoose Action Head?
Has anyone had any experience with the Mongoose Action Head
{ http://www.4gdphoto.com/ } and compared it to the Wimberly (not the sidekick)? I would be using it with a 500 mm F/4 IS and with 1.4 and 2x TCs. I've heard people with the Wimberly wedge their hand in the between the L-bracket and the vertical arm to increase stability. The Mongoose does not appear to have this issue by the way one mounts the lens to the head. Roger |
#2
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Wimberly or Mongoose Action Head?
Take a look at kirkphoto also. I haven't used either so I can't provide
first hand knowledge. -jeff "Roger N. Clark" wrote in message ... Has anyone had any experience with the Mongoose Action Head { http://www.4gdphoto.com/ } and compared it to the Wimberly (not the sidekick)? I would be using it with a 500 mm F/4 IS and with 1.4 and 2x TCs. I've heard people with the Wimberly wedge their hand in the between the L-bracket and the vertical arm to increase stability. The Mongoose does not appear to have this issue by the way one mounts the lens to the head. Roger |
#4
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Wimberly or Mongoose Action Head?
"Roger N. Clark" wrote in message
... Has anyone had any experience with the Mongoose Action Head { http://www.4gdphoto.com/ } and compared it to the Wimberly (not the sidekick)? I would be using it with a 500 mm F/4 IS and with 1.4 and 2x TCs. ....cut.... Roger, Bill Hilton has covered quite a bit; however, I would add that your lens only weighs in @ 8.5 lbs (amazing for what it is!) and I would not rule out the simple Sidekick. I have a 13 lb lens and have used it with the teleconverters stacked on it successfully with only the Sidekick - caveat being it is mounted on the Arca Swiss B1 ball head. All warnings Bill mentioned concerning mounting the lens are worth noting - reasonable care with anything as expensively fragile as these long boys are goes without saying (just said it though didn't I) Also, my lens is not IS; however, I think when you use one of those on a tripod that it is recommended you turn that feature off?? The newer generation IS systems may be different, but I still recall thinking my Sony video camera was broken when the centerfield wall started dancing around at one baseball game - simply had not turned the steady-shot feature off prior to setting up on the tripod. As you are probably aware, getting sharp pics at extreme telephoto FL calls up a little more technique. Hopefully what you are shooting with "stacked" TC's will be static and non-moving.......whereby you can employ mirror lockup and some timer function or hands-off remote shutter release - allows most all that vibration to settle down prior to the actual pic taking. If, on-the-other-hand, you are attempting to track something moving with a 1400mm FL, I hope you have fast film or fast digital ISO selected and a lot of patience Shoot'em up, steady, unsteady, falling down, Agfa, Fuji, Kodak and all the rest will love you for it!! Jim |
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