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#1
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Mix-n-match lens cells?
Are modern manufacturing tolerances sufficiently good that I could
combine a good front cell from one lens with a good rear cell from another? In particular, I'm thinking of a couple of fairly modern Fujinons that are actually quite close in serial number. I observe that the serial number is inscribed on the rear cell only, so these don't _appear_ to be matched cells. All comments, wisdom, folklore, and old-wives tales welcome. My email address is mangled, please reply to the group. Thanks. Steve |
#3
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Mix-n-match lens cells?
(Stephan Goldstein) wrote in message ...
Are modern manufacturing tolerances sufficiently good that I could combine a good front cell from one lens with a good rear cell from another? In particular, I'm thinking of a couple of fairly modern Fujinons that are actually quite close in serial number. I observe that the serial number is inscribed on the rear cell only, so these don't _appear_ to be matched cells. All comments, wisdom, folklore, and old-wives tales welcome. My email address is mangled, please reply to the group. Thanks. Steve Im not so sure tollerances are much better than, say, fifty years ago. If you have to two lenses try them. I think the Fujinon is a semi-semetrical lens of the "Plasmat" type. These are relatively less critical of the match of the two cells than unsymmetrical lenses like a Tessar. The lens serial number may be on the back of the front cell. Check for image quality at both center and margins. Plasmats should do pretty well when wide open. There is some additional information on Fujinon LF lenses at: http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/fujinon.htm Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#4
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Mix-n-match lens cells?
Hi
I do know most lens manufactures in order to keep glass scrap down, select fit lens elements. This means that they are matched. The idea is to match a slightly under spec lens element to a slightly over spec lens element. This is usually within a group of elements. If all you doing is matching the back lens group to another front, the most that can happen is distortion might be slightly out of spec. Larry |
#5
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Mix-n-match lens cells?
Hi
I do know most lens manufactures in order to keep glass scrap down, select fit lens elements. This means that they are matched. The idea is to match a slightly under spec lens element to a slightly over spec lens element. This is usually within a group of elements. If all you doing is matching the back lens group to another front, the most that can happen is distortion might be slightly out of spec. Larry |
#6
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Mix-n-match lens cells?
"Hemi4268" wrote in message ... Hi I do know most lens manufactures in order to keep glass scrap down, select fit lens elements. This means that they are matched. The idea is to match a slightly under spec lens element to a slightly over spec lens element. This is usually within a group of elements. If all you doing is matching the back lens group to another front, the most that can happen is distortion might be slightly out of spec. Larry Depends on the lens. For a symmetrical of semi-symmetrical lens like a Schneider Symmar, the effect of a small mismatch will not be great since this type can be used as a convertible anyway. The symmetry is use to correct lateral color, coma, and geometrical distortion, all of which will be somewhat greater if the the matching cells are not used, again the error may be very small. For asymmetrical lenses, like Tessars, the effects are much greater. In the Tessar most of the power is in the back cell and most of the correction is in the front. If they are not matched correctly all aberrations will be affected to some extent. Actually, all of the elements are selected. A stronger lens can not be compensated for by a weaker one in another position, generally all of the elements are chosen to have similar errors so that, with some adjustment of element spacing, the result is a variation in focal length. F.L. is not critical in most photographic applications. Lenses requiring the F.L. to be precisely known, for instance process lenses, are marked with the measured F.L. and locations of the principle points. This is unnessary for most uses. Small deviations in power can have a profound effect in some positions in a lens and a smaller effet in others. In case of the Tessar both small variations in power and small variations in element spacing can have profound effects on performance. In general, the more complex a lens is the greater the effect of any variation in its performance. You can demontrate this for yourself with one of the freeware demonstrator lens design programs avaiable on the web. OSLO is one. There is a learning curve with any of these but they will show the effect of all variations on a simple lens. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#7
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Mix-n-match lens cells?
Actually, all of the elements are selected. A
stronger lens can not be compensated for by a weaker one in another position, generally all of the elements are chosen to have similar errors so that, with some adjustment of element spacing, the result is a variation in focal length. F.L. is not critical in most photographic applications. Although final lens space is always critical with lens matching, the usual mix and match that I know of is to use a slightly oversize element with a slighty undersize element. I must admit though that this is not a hard and fast rule. One sure way to find out the true focal length of any lens is to time expose the North Star at night. Then read the distance on the film between two known stars. Larry |
#8
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Mix-n-match lens cells?
Actually, all of the elements are selected. A
stronger lens can not be compensated for by a weaker one in another position, generally all of the elements are chosen to have similar errors so that, with some adjustment of element spacing, the result is a variation in focal length. F.L. is not critical in most photographic applications. Although final lens space is always critical with lens matching, the usual mix and match that I know of is to use a slightly oversize element with a slighty undersize element. I must admit though that this is not a hard and fast rule. One sure way to find out the true focal length of any lens is to time expose the North Star at night. Then read the distance on the film between two known stars. Larry |
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