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#1
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Problem : cyan cast on C41 negatives
Hi everybody !
I am a newbie trying to develop C41 films on my own. I have a fairly dark darkroom and photo chemicals from Kodak. This kit is sold only in South Asia. In short, the dilution instructions specify that it can be used to make 4 litres of developer, and 2 litres each of the bleach, fixer and stabilizer . I also followed the instructions about the temperature (about 100 degrees Fahrenheit) as well as the process times (6 steps : additional two washes). The problem is that the developed negative comes out with a cyan cast every time (4 times so far) and the resulting photograph has a reddish tinge which masks out all other colours very effectively. Does anybody know what might be happening here ? --- Anirban Brahmachari. P.S. I use a red lamp in the darkroom and keep it switched on for a minimum duration. Could it be the cause of this problem ? If so, the tinge should not be uniform but as a matter of fact, the tinge IS UNIFORM. The lamp stays on at a very low power (light output equivalent to a 5W incandescent lamp at 10 feet) for about a minute during the first two stages (development and bleaching). |
#2
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Problem : cyan cast on C41 negatives
Anirban wrote:
Hi everybody ! I am a newbie trying to develop C41 films on my own. I have a fairly dark darkroom and photo chemicals from Kodak. This kit is sold only in South Asia. In short, the dilution instructions specify that it can be used to make 4 litres of developer, and 2 litres each of the bleach, fixer and stabilizer . I also followed the instructions about the temperature (about 100 degrees Fahrenheit) as well as the process times (6 steps : additional two washes). The problem is that the developed negative comes out with a cyan cast every time (4 times so far) and the resulting photograph has a reddish tinge which masks out all other colours very effectively. Does anybody know what might be happening here ? --- Anirban Brahmachari. P.S. I use a red lamp in the darkroom and keep it switched on for a minimum duration. Could it be the cause of this problem ? If so, the tinge should not be uniform but as a matter of fact, the tinge IS UNIFORM. The lamp stays on at a very low power (light output equivalent to a 5W incandescent lamp at 10 feet) for about a minute during the first two stages (development and bleaching). Something does not sound right; c-41 is a color process, so a red safelight would not work and will fog the film. Try with no safelight. Also, the darkroom has to be really, really light-tight; sit in it dark for at least 5 minutes in the dark and see if you see anything; luminous clocks, dots,, leds on radios or timers; all of these can do nasty things! gr |
#3
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Problem : cyan cast on C41 negatives
On 8 May 2007 09:33:37 -0700, Anirban had a
flock of green cheek conures squawk out: Hi everybody ! I am a newbie trying to develop C41 films on my own. I have a fairly dark darkroom and photo chemicals from Kodak. This kit is sold only in South Asia. In short, the dilution instructions specify that it can be used to make 4 litres of developer, and 2 litres each of the bleach, fixer and stabilizer . I also followed the instructions about the temperature (about 100 degrees Fahrenheit) as well as the process times (6 steps : additional two washes). The problem is that the developed negative comes out with a cyan cast every time (4 times so far) and the resulting photograph has a reddish tinge which masks out all other colours very effectively. Does anybody know what might be happening here ? --- Anirban Brahmachari. P.S. I use a red lamp in the darkroom and keep it switched on for a minimum duration. Could it be the cause of this problem ? If so, the tinge should not be uniform but as a matter of fact, the tinge IS UNIFORM. The lamp stays on at a very low power (light output equivalent to a 5W incandescent lamp at 10 feet) for about a minute during the first two stages (development and bleaching). You can't use a safelight or have any other light source in the darkroom while developing color film. The cyan cast can also mean that the bleach has contaminated the developer. Stephen -- |
#4
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Problem : cyan cast on C41 negatives
In article .com,
Anirban writes: I am a newbie trying to develop C41 films on my own. I have a fairly dark darkroom and photo chemicals from Kodak. First, "fairly dark" doesn't cut it. One way to test is to seal yourself in your darkroom for about ten minutes with the light out. (Use a timer with a beeper.) At the end of that period, if you can make out a sheet of white paper held at arm's length, the darkroom isn't dark enough; locate and patch the light leaks. That said, given your symptoms, I doubt if darkroom light leaks are the source of your problem, unless you've got some colored glass or something that's letting in red light but not other colors. I also followed the instructions about the temperature (about 100 degrees Fahrenheit) as well as the process times (6 steps : additional two washes). C-41 is much more temperature-sensitive than B&W, so you shouldn't be sloppy about that 100 degrees F target. If you're using a manual developing tank, use a water bath to hit as close to 100F as possible. I doubt if being a degree or two off would cause the sort of severe problem you describe, but you should definitely eliminate this variable. The problem is that the developed negative comes out with a cyan cast every time (4 times so far) and the resulting photograph has a reddish tinge which masks out all other colours very effectively. .... P.S. I use a red lamp in the darkroom and keep it switched on for a minimum duration. Could it be the cause of this problem ? If the film itself is exposed to red light, then that's almost certainly the cause of the problem. A red safelight is *NOT* safe with ANY color material, AFAIK. For that matter, a red safelight isn't safe with most B&W films, either; it's useful mainly for B&W papers. If so, the tinge should not be uniform but as a matter of fact, the tinge IS UNIFORM. The lamp stays on at a very low power (light output equivalent to a 5W incandescent lamp at 10 feet) for about a minute Consider this: A one-minute in-camera exposure of most films will be enough to produce an image (and perhaps completely blacken a frame) in any but the very dimmest of light. When the film is exposed directly, rather than through a lens, the film will get even more light, Thus, the exposure you describe could well be completely fogging the red-sensitive layer of the film, hiding any non-uniformity by the extent of the fogging. during the first two stages (development and bleaching). This last phrase throws a monkey wrench into my whole analysis. If you're saying that you're using the red safelight only AFTER the film is loaded into the tank, then it shouldn't cause problems. AFAIK, all mainstream development tanks are "daylight" tanks -- they're designed to be used in normal lighting conditions, and require darkness only when you're loading the film into the tank. If your tank is leaking light, I'd expect streaks or fogging along an edge or the outer spirals of the film. OTOH, if you're using the tank with its lid off, if your safelight is on when you load the film into the tank, or if you're using some very old or unusual equipment that is NOT light-tight, then your safelight is still very probably the cause of the problem. -- Rod Smith, http://www.rodsbooks.com Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking |
#5
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Problem : cyan cast on C41 negatives
PROBLEM FIXED.
Thanks everyone. The problem was indeed the red light. This time I did it without the red light and it worked fine. Thank you so much. I really don't appreciate why people flock to social networking sites these days when there are so many helpful people on Usenet. --- Anirban Brahmachari. |
#6
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Problem : cyan cast on C41 negatives
On May 8, 12:33 pm, Anirban wrote:
Hi everybody ! I am a newbie trying to develop C41 films on my own. I have a fairly dark darkroom and photo chemicals from Kodak. This kit is sold only in South Asia. In short, the dilution instructions specify that it can be used to make 4 litres of developer, and 2 litres each of the bleach, fixer and stabilizer . I also followed the instructions about the temperature (about 100 degrees Fahrenheit) as well as the process times (6 steps : additional two washes). The problem is that the developed negative comes out with a cyan cast every time (4 times so far) and the resulting photograph has a reddish tinge which masks out all other colours very effectively. Does anybody know what might be happening here ? --- Anirban Brahmachari. P.S. I use a red lamp in the darkroom and keep it switched on for a minimum duration. Could it be the cause of this problem ? If so, the tinge should not be uniform but as a matter of fact, the tinge IS UNIFORM. The lamp stays on at a very low power (light output equivalent to a 5W incandescent lamp at 10 feet) for about a minute during the first two stages (development and bleaching). You are a moron. Why do people like you exist? |
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