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Gym help



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 24th 04, 10:42 AM
Alan Kerr
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Posts: n/a
Default Gym help

Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter
if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film
designed for shooting under tungsten lights.

Alan

Mark Best wrote:

Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them coming
out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200 zoom.
I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses
super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry. Trying
to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I haven't
tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large space,
not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try? Any
suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to 1000,
and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop.


  #12  
Old January 24th 04, 03:35 PM
Smitty
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Posts: n/a
Default Gym help

You did not say what sport your shooting in the gym. If it is basketball
then I can offer you some ideas. Look at my sports shots at
www.adroit-images.com if this is what your trying to do then email me direct
and I'll coach you through it.
Smitty

"Alan Kerr" wrote in message
...
Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter
if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film
designed for shooting under tungsten lights.

Alan

Mark Best wrote:

Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them

coming
out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200

zoom.
I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses
super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry.

Trying
to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I

haven't
tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large

space,
not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try?

Any
suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to

1000,
and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop.




  #13  
Old January 24th 04, 05:07 PM
David
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Gym help

actually, tungsten light is warm. you don't need to make it warmer. However,
I don't believe most gyms use tungsten lighting.

David
"Alan Kerr" wrote in message
...
Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter
if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film
designed for shooting under tungsten lights.

Alan

Mark Best wrote:

Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them

coming
out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200

zoom.
I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses
super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry.

Trying
to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I

haven't
tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large

space,
not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try?

Any
suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to

1000,
and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop.




  #14  
Old January 24th 04, 09:44 PM
Alan Kerr
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Gym help

I stand corrected, tunsten light is 3200K when daylight film is for
shooting at 5500K- it was late at night. I am right about needing an 80A
filter to adjust the tungsten light though.

Alan

It is David wrote:
actually, tungsten light is warm. you don't need to make it warmer. However,
I don't believe most gyms use tungsten lighting.

David
"Alan Kerr" wrote in message
...

Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter
if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film
designed for shooting under tungsten lights.

Alan

Mark Best wrote:


Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them


coming

out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200


zoom.

I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses
super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry.


Trying

to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I


haven't

tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large


space,

not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try?


Any

suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to


1000,

and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop.





  #15  
Old January 24th 04, 09:53 PM
Alan Kerr
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Hi Smitty WAS: Gym help

Smitty, how you going mate. I just looked at your website and you have
some terriffic images there. How's the Canon going? I've just bought a
Pentax 645N for my landscape work, not sure to do with my Maxxum system
as yet, I've bneen thinking I can use my D7 (soon to become an A1)for
anything the MF is not suitable for. Are you not using film at all now
for work?

Alan

Smitty wrote:

You did not say what sport your shooting in the gym. If it is basketball
then I can offer you some ideas. Look at my sports shots at
www.adroit-images.com if this is what your trying to do then email me direct
and I'll coach you through it.
Smitty

"Alan Kerr" wrote in message
...

Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter
if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film
designed for shooting under tungsten lights.

Alan

Mark Best wrote:


Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them


coming

out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200


zoom.

I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses
super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry.


Trying

to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I


haven't

tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large


space,

not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try?


Any

suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to


1000,

and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop.





  #16  
Old February 1st 04, 04:50 PM
Mary Greer
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Gym help

It doesn't have to do so much with the shutter speed or film speed or
the type of lens that you use. The orange effect is coming from the
type of lighting in the environment. I think that incandescent bulbs
give off the orange tint that you are referring to. The least expensive
way to deal with this is by purchasing a filter for your lens. Go to a
reputable camera store and there should be someone knowledgeable enough
to help you there.

Mark Best wrote:
Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them coming
out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200 zoom.
I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses
super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry. Trying
to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I haven't
tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large space,
not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try? Any
suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to 1000,
and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop.



  #17  
Old February 2nd 04, 10:19 AM
Magnum PI
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Gym help

Actually he is right, the extra piece of glass and the two extra surfaces to
keep clean will degrade the image.

"Mark Hammerschmidt" wrote in message
...
Actually you are wrong. UV does not degrade your image. Although it also
will not help you indoors. It is a filter to block UV natural light for

out
door shots in sunlight. Cuts an insignificant amount of light, but cuts a
specific temperature of light. The gentleman who suggested using tungsten
film is correct. If his photos are turning out orange it is because of
tungsten light. If it were fluorescent it would be turning out green. Your
slow shutter speed can be compensated for by using a faster speed film.

You
will get more grain but less blur. Tungsten film for negative film will be
hard to find, much more common in positive (slide) film. But if you are
shooting it often it may be worth the search. On the other hand, if you

are
shooting it often you should find a way to get closer to the action so you
don't have to waste your shutter speed on long focal lengths. IE Zoom
lenses.


"Eric Hocking" wrote in message
om...
Marc 182 wrote in message

et...
In article , do_not@e-
mail.me says...
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:50:22 -0600, wrote:

"Mark Best" wrote:

orange-tinted pictures

Take them back to the place that printed them and ask them to print

them so
the lighting is more neutral.

OR... look into getting a blue filter so that you can change the

color
temperature of the gym lighting.

No way. He's already got problems with blurring. A colored filter
would cut even more light. His equipment is not adequate (slow zoom)

to
use a blue filter.


Use tungsten film instead of daylight.
That will reduce the orange cast without having to resort to colour

filters.

--
Eric Hocking
www.twofromoz.freeserve.co.uk
"A closed mouth gathers no feet"
"Ignorance is a renewable resource" P.J.O'Rourke





  #19  
Old February 5th 04, 02:15 AM
KBob
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Posts: n/a
Default Gym help

On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 07:32:11 GMT, "Mark Hammerschmidt"
wrote:

Actually you are wrong. UV does not degrade your image. Although it also
will not help you indoors. It is a filter to block UV natural light for out
door shots in sunlight. Cuts an insignificant amount of light, but cuts a
specific temperature of light. The gentleman who suggested using tungsten
film is correct. If his photos are turning out orange it is because of
tungsten light. If it were fluorescent it would be turning out green. Your
slow shutter speed can be compensated for by using a faster speed film. You
will get more grain but less blur. Tungsten film for negative film will be
hard to find, much more common in positive (slide) film. But if you are
shooting it often it may be worth the search. On the other hand, if you are
shooting it often you should find a way to get closer to the action so you
don't have to waste your shutter speed on long focal lengths. IE Zoom
lenses.

So-called "UV" filters do little more than the glass of the lenses
they are used on, but of course they at least afford innocuous
protection to the front element. Haze filters are another matter,
they can effectively cut the light off at near UV, or even the more
extreme ones (like the 2A) will eliminate UV altogether (even UVA).

I've always believed that a test is worth 1000 opinions. Take your
"UV" filter and interpose it between a fluorescent sample and a common
blacklight, then see how much good it does. Then do the same thing
with a haze filter and let us know.

When shooting fluorescent mineral specimens, a very aggressive UV cut
is needed to prevent the high ambient ultraviolet from creating a
strong bluish cast and fouling up the color. This is the case also
for digital cameras. For this application a Kodak 2A haze (also
Vivitar made these) is ideal, and the slight yellowish cast it imparts
can easily be adjusted out in postprocessing if desired. No other
filter I'm aware of is as effective in eliminating unwanted UV.

Older cameras with simple uncoated lenses were relatively transparent
to near UV, and for these some form of "UV" filter might show a
visible improvement.
  #20  
Old February 18th 04, 10:27 PM
H. David Huffman
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Posts: n/a
Default Gym help

Or, buy a tungsten film rated at 800/1600 ASA and "push" it to 3200ASA when
YOU develope it, yourself.
There are many kits available to develope your own color slides, and
they usually contain instructions on how to "push" your film.
Hope this helps
David
"-xiray-" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:50:22 -0600, wrote:

"Mark Best" wrote:

orange-tinted pictures


Take them back to the place that printed them and ask them to print them

so
the lighting is more neutral.


OR... look into getting a blue filter so that you can change the color
temperature of the gym lighting.




 




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