If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Using a Dry Mount press???
I know this will be very basic; but.....
I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and release paper. Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints. Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in the press and closed it for 5 minutes. Take out the package, everything peels apart. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? Thanks. -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Try raising the temperature of the press higher in 50 degree increments
until the adhesion is good. The temperature indicator of the press may not be accurate. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Here are some possibilities. Did you adjust the press so the "sandwich" is actually being compressed? I am not familiar with Promount tissue. It might need higher temp (unlikely), or the temperature indicator may be wrong. The press needs probably 15 minutes to get to temperature. This tissue may require that the sandwich be cooled under weight. That is, it doesn't stick until the wax cools. in which case you should have extra mat board above and below the sandwich; take it all out of the press, and put a weight down on it until it cools some. Also, glossy RC paper sometimes gets an "orange peel" effect with release paper. Some people recommend something else which is stiffer. Oh, 5 minutes is too long, I think. I would try 2 minutes. Tell us what works. RJF ??? wrote: I know this will be very basic; but..... I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and release paper. Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints. Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in the press and closed it for 5 minutes. Take out the package, everything peels apart. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? Thanks. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
In article ,
Richard Fateman wrote: Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and release paper. Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints. Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in the press and closed it for 5 minutes. Take out the package, everything peels apart. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? Yes, you have a soft bed press - Seal, not a hard bed press - Ademco. With a soft bed press the bonding takes place outside the press under weight. With a hard bed press the bonding takes place inside the press. With your press heat to the required temperature, press and take out of the press and place a heavy weight on the print/mount until it cools. -- To reply no_ HPMarketing Corp. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you, that did it.
-- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution "Bob Salomon" wrote in message ... In article , Richard Fateman wrote: Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and release paper. Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints. Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in the press and closed it for 5 minutes. Take out the package, everything peels apart. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? Yes, you have a soft bed press - Seal, not a hard bed press - Ademco. With a soft bed press the bonding takes place outside the press under weight. With a hard bed press the bonding takes place inside the press. With your press heat to the required temperature, press and take out of the press and place a heavy weight on the print/mount until it cools. -- To reply no_ HPMarketing Corp. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Read the directions? Seriously some of these new tissues do not really bond
until cool (a bit like hot melt glue) and need to remain under pressure until completely cooled off. Also, do not trust the thermostat on your press, seal makes indicator strips to tell you what the temp really is inside your press. -- darkroommike ---------- "???" wrote in message newsdpNd.14115$uc.7634@trnddc08... I know this will be very basic; but..... I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and release paper. Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints. Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in the press and closed it for 5 minutes. Take out the package, everything peels apart. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? Thanks. -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
The factory sealed roll of Promount I purchased new had a tech sheet
describing how to use various Bienfang dry mount adhesive in vacuum presses, mechanical presses and hard bed presses. Also described how to make release boards. No where did it describe this material (or any of the other materials) as a heat activated/cool set adhesive. No where did it describe what to do after heat was applied. I agree such information would have avoided my need to request advice. I did not mention the tech sheet because I thought readers would have assumed the directions were already consulted ( as well as several books on matting/framing/mounting). -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution "Mike King" wrote in message ... Read the directions? Seriously some of these new tissues do not really bond until cool (a bit like hot melt glue) and need to remain under pressure until completely cooled off. Also, do not trust the thermostat on your press, seal makes indicator strips to tell you what the temp really is inside your press. -- darkroommike ---------- "???" wrote in message newsdpNd.14115$uc.7634@trnddc08... I know this will be very basic; but..... I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and release paper. Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints. Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in the press and closed it for 5 minutes. Take out the package, everything peels apart. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? Thanks. -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
"???" wrote in message newsdpNd.14115$uc.7634@trnddc08... I know this will be very basic; but..... I just bought a Seal 120 press and cleaned it up. Got Promount tissue and release paper. Washed some Ilford MGIV Glossy prints. Took an 8 x 10 matboard, tissue print. Sandwiched that between release paper. Set mount to 200 degrees. When warmed up, I put the sandwich in the press and closed it for 5 minutes. Take out the package, everything peels apart. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? Thanks. -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution Make sure the temperature of the press is what it says. 200F should fuse any dry mounting tissue and is too hot for some. You need dry mounting tissue, release paper, some "kraft" or "construction" paper, the mounting board, and a flat weight. This is ideally metal but a sheet of smooth plywood or similar will do. There are two keys to good dry mounting. One is to dry out the print and materials first. The first step is to put the kraft paper into the press and dry it for two or three minutes. Then, place the print emulsion side down on a sheet of release paper. Put sheets of dry kraft paper on either side. Put this into the press and close it down. The press does not have to be locked for this. Leave the sandwich in the press for about two minutes. Take it out and place the entire thing under the flat weight for a few minutes until it has cooled. This will flatten the print. Now cut a sheet of dry mounting tissue a bit larger than the print. Tack it to the print at ta point on ONE EDGE. Do NOT tack it, as is often recommended, at the center, that will cause wrinkles and voids. After it is tacked cover the print on both sides with release tissue and place this between a few sheets of dryed kraft paper. the kraft paper acts as a cussion and to even out the heat. Put this in the press and lock it down for about a minute. Then take out the whole sandwich and again put it under the flat weight until it cools. This will bond the release tissue to the back of the print. Remove the print from the release tissue and trim it to the desired dimensions. The mounting tissue will, of course, be perfectly trimmed along with the paper. When trimmed place the paper on the mount in the desired position. Using a couple of layers of scrap release tissue tack it to the mount board, again at a point on one edge, not the center. When its tacked cover the face with release tissue and several layers of kraft paper, again as a cussion. Then place this combination in the press and lock it down. Leave it in for about two to three minutes. It should not take longer than this to fuse the tissue. When the time has passed open the press and place the entire sandwich under the flat weight until cool. When dry mounting is done this way the prints will be perfectly smooth with no problems from wrinkles of voids. The dry mounting tissue may be quite tacky until it cools down. This may be the source of your trouble. However, test the tissue with the tacking iron to make sure it does actually melt and fuse. Its possible that the tissue is defective. Secondly, as dumb as it sounds, make sure you are not confusing release paper with the mounting tissue, in some cases they look pretty similar. While some archivists and gallery owners do not like dry mounting I believe it is the best method for display prints. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"???" wrote in message news:c02Od.22669$uc.2056@trnddc09... The factory sealed roll of Promount I purchased new had a tech sheet describing how to use various Bienfang dry mount adhesive in vacuum presses, mechanical presses and hard bed presses. Also described how to make release boards. No where did it describe this material (or any of the other materials) as a heat activated/cool set adhesive. No where did it describe what to do after heat was applied. I agree such information would have avoided my need to request advice. I did not mention the tech sheet because I thought readers would have assumed the directions were already consulted ( as well as several books on matting/framing/mounting). -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution Release paper or tissue is very useful. I don't think Bienfang makes it but Light Impressions does. The tissue can be reused until it is wrinkled. It is also a good idea to use low temperature mounting tissue. Fusion temperature of mounting tissue varies from around 220F to about 190F. For RC or color prints the low temperature stuff is very desirable. http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/ -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
As I re-read this I realize I left out the "second key". It is the
use of the flat weight. It should be used as indicated after drying out the print in the press to make sure its flat and to cool the mounted print under to make sure it bonds to the mount. The more heat absorbent the material is the better. The ideal weight is a plate of aluminum but even heavy plywood will do if its really smooth. Proabably glass would work but I would be afraid of accidentally breaking it. The procedure I posted is OK but I may not have been as clear as possible about this point. Make sure the thick paper used to dry the print and as padding is free of anything which could transfer to the prints and attack the image. Archival paper should be good enough. Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
CANON - The Great Innovator (was: CANON – The Great Pretender) | Steven M. Scharf | Digital Photography | 104 | September 3rd 04 01:01 PM |
CANON - The Great Innovator (was: CANON – The Great Pretender) | Steven M. Scharf | 35mm Photo Equipment | 92 | September 3rd 04 01:01 PM |
HELP! Dry Mount, PMA QUESTION | Michael Bonnycastle | In The Darkroom | 2 | February 23rd 04 01:45 PM |
Need dry mount press recommendation | Wehs | In The Darkroom | 6 | January 27th 04 03:34 AM |
shoe mount flash umbrella holder question... | Mike King | Other Photographic Equipment | 0 | November 13th 03 02:35 PM |