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#1
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Best ISO for Handheld, Indoors Like Museums
Shooting museums or indoors like that. Table top tripod? Monopod?,
high ISO? or simply forget it? I have used the tabletop tripod. It works, usually allowed, but too restricted when talking about finding the right position and height. I also have the fear that someone might step on my camera. Havden't tried monopod, feel it's not much more steady than handheld, maybe at most one stop better? High ISO? seems I'll need ISO 800 or above, but then I don;t know of any good color film with that ISO. Delta-400 or TMax-400 might be good, but they are all B&W. Any recommendation for color films? What would you use for such occasion? |
#3
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In article ,
(Einton Newstein) writes: Shooting museums or indoors like that. Table top tripod? Monopod?, high ISO? or simply forget it? I'd start with a fast lens. A lot of modern zooms are rather slow compared to the fixed-length lenses of yesteryear. I'd also consider the precise lighting conditions and subjects. Is this a well-lit science museum, where you want to photograph dinosaur skeletons? A dimly-lit history museum where you want to photograph 1800s knitting needles? Those factors will favor different approaches. For instance, for small subjects you might consider using flash, if it's permitted in the museum. Assuming a moderately to well lit museum with a range of subjects, I'd probably bring two or three fast lenses and ISO 400 or 800 film. If I thought it'd be a bit dimmer, I'd bring a small tripod. That's just me, of course. -- Rod Smith, http://www.rodsbooks.com Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking |
#4
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Rod Smith wrote:
In article (Einton Newstein) writes: Shooting museums or indoors like that. Table top tripod? Monopod?, high ISO? or simply forget it? I'd start with a fast lens. A lot of modern zooms are rather slow compared to the fixed-length lenses of yesteryear. Agreed, and since the objects does not move: consider also Image Stabilization. Personally I believe that very sensitive films (800, 1600) are too grainy to give a satisfaction on anything with fine texture and detail. I was shooting recently 4/5 museums in Europe, albeit digital. The point though is that we used ISO 100 for low noise images, f2/8 lens and image stabilization. Very satisfactory with exposure times down to 1/2 sec, handheld (Lumix FZ-10)! I shot a lot of time in museums, usually using a small tripod applied to door frames, walls etc. whenever this was permitted. In one prominent example (Edo Museum in Tokyo) they explicitly disallow the use of tripods. They accepted though the use of the "foot sling"! Such contraption allows to shoot at 1/15 sec with good result in most cases, if you can keep it steady. I'd also consider the precise lighting conditions and subjects. Is this a well-lit science museum, where you want to photograph dinosaur skeletons? A dimly-lit history museum where you want to photograph 1800s knitting needles? Those factors will favor different approaches. For instance, for small subjects you might consider using flash, if it's permitted in the museum. Flash is a taboo in virtually 100% of museums (with art, at least.) Possibly a museum of (say) military equipment and such will not object, but these are rare cases. In some cases not harm to the exhibition but also the annoyance factor to others motivates museum to prohibit flash. E.g. Glyptothek in Munich. Assuming a moderately to well lit museum with a range of subjects, I'd probably bring two or three fast lenses and ISO 400 or 800 film. If I thought it'd be a bit dimmer, I'd bring a small tripod. That's just me, of course. Same here, just an opinion! Happy shooting. Thomas -- Rod Smith, http://www.rodsbooks.com Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking |
#5
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Rod Smith wrote:
In article (Einton Newstein) writes: Shooting museums or indoors like that. Table top tripod? Monopod?, high ISO? or simply forget it? I'd start with a fast lens. A lot of modern zooms are rather slow compared to the fixed-length lenses of yesteryear. Agreed, and since the objects does not move: consider also Image Stabilization. Personally I believe that very sensitive films (800, 1600) are too grainy to give a satisfaction on anything with fine texture and detail. I was shooting recently 4/5 museums in Europe, albeit digital. The point though is that we used ISO 100 for low noise images, f2/8 lens and image stabilization. Very satisfactory with exposure times down to 1/2 sec, handheld (Lumix FZ-10)! I shot a lot of time in museums, usually using a small tripod applied to door frames, walls etc. whenever this was permitted. In one prominent example (Edo Museum in Tokyo) they explicitly disallow the use of tripods. They accepted though the use of the "foot sling"! Such contraption allows to shoot at 1/15 sec with good result in most cases, if you can keep it steady. I'd also consider the precise lighting conditions and subjects. Is this a well-lit science museum, where you want to photograph dinosaur skeletons? A dimly-lit history museum where you want to photograph 1800s knitting needles? Those factors will favor different approaches. For instance, for small subjects you might consider using flash, if it's permitted in the museum. Flash is a taboo in virtually 100% of museums (with art, at least.) Possibly a museum of (say) military equipment and such will not object, but these are rare cases. In some cases not harm to the exhibition but also the annoyance factor to others motivates museum to prohibit flash. E.g. Glyptothek in Munich. Assuming a moderately to well lit museum with a range of subjects, I'd probably bring two or three fast lenses and ISO 400 or 800 film. If I thought it'd be a bit dimmer, I'd bring a small tripod. That's just me, of course. Same here, just an opinion! Happy shooting. Thomas -- Rod Smith, http://www.rodsbooks.com Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking |
#6
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I guess I'd give up the idea to shoot handheld.
I figured the lighting would require ISO-800 in order to shoot with f4 @ 1/32 sec. Here f4 is my lens's speed (medium format prime lens) and 1/32 sec is the speed I can barely hold steadily. But I'm not happy with any film with ISO-800. I'd go back to the table-top tripod. Or, maybe a good digital camera is another solution. ThomasH wrote in message ... Rod Smith wrote: In article (Einton Newstein) writes: Shooting museums or indoors like that. Table top tripod? Monopod?, high ISO? or simply forget it? I'd start with a fast lens. A lot of modern zooms are rather slow compared to the fixed-length lenses of yesteryear. Agreed, and since the objects does not move: consider also Image Stabilization. Personally I believe that very sensitive films (800, 1600) are too grainy to give a satisfaction on anything with fine texture and detail. I was shooting recently 4/5 museums in Europe, albeit digital. The point though is that we used ISO 100 for low noise images, f2/8 lens and image stabilization. Very satisfactory with exposure times down to 1/2 sec, handheld (Lumix FZ-10)! I shot a lot of time in museums, usually using a small tripod applied to door frames, walls etc. whenever this was permitted. In one prominent example (Edo Museum in Tokyo) they explicitly disallow the use of tripods. They accepted though the use of the "foot sling"! Such contraption allows to shoot at 1/15 sec with good result in most cases, if you can keep it steady. I'd also consider the precise lighting conditions and subjects. Is this a well-lit science museum, where you want to photograph dinosaur skeletons? A dimly-lit history museum where you want to photograph 1800s knitting needles? Those factors will favor different approaches. For instance, for small subjects you might consider using flash, if it's permitted in the museum. Flash is a taboo in virtually 100% of museums (with art, at least.) Possibly a museum of (say) military equipment and such will not object, but these are rare cases. In some cases not harm to the exhibition but also the annoyance factor to others motivates museum to prohibit flash. E.g. Glyptothek in Munich. Assuming a moderately to well lit museum with a range of subjects, I'd probably bring two or three fast lenses and ISO 400 or 800 film. If I thought it'd be a bit dimmer, I'd bring a small tripod. That's just me, of course. Same here, just an opinion! Happy shooting. Thomas -- Rod Smith, http://www.rodsbooks.com Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking |
#7
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I guess I'd give up the idea to shoot handheld.
I figured the lighting would require ISO-800 in order to shoot with f4 @ 1/32 sec. Here f4 is my lens's speed (medium format prime lens) and 1/32 sec is the speed I can barely hold steadily. But I'm not happy with any film with ISO-800. I'd go back to the table-top tripod. Or, maybe a good digital camera is another solution. ThomasH wrote in message ... Rod Smith wrote: In article (Einton Newstein) writes: Shooting museums or indoors like that. Table top tripod? Monopod?, high ISO? or simply forget it? I'd start with a fast lens. A lot of modern zooms are rather slow compared to the fixed-length lenses of yesteryear. Agreed, and since the objects does not move: consider also Image Stabilization. Personally I believe that very sensitive films (800, 1600) are too grainy to give a satisfaction on anything with fine texture and detail. I was shooting recently 4/5 museums in Europe, albeit digital. The point though is that we used ISO 100 for low noise images, f2/8 lens and image stabilization. Very satisfactory with exposure times down to 1/2 sec, handheld (Lumix FZ-10)! I shot a lot of time in museums, usually using a small tripod applied to door frames, walls etc. whenever this was permitted. In one prominent example (Edo Museum in Tokyo) they explicitly disallow the use of tripods. They accepted though the use of the "foot sling"! Such contraption allows to shoot at 1/15 sec with good result in most cases, if you can keep it steady. I'd also consider the precise lighting conditions and subjects. Is this a well-lit science museum, where you want to photograph dinosaur skeletons? A dimly-lit history museum where you want to photograph 1800s knitting needles? Those factors will favor different approaches. For instance, for small subjects you might consider using flash, if it's permitted in the museum. Flash is a taboo in virtually 100% of museums (with art, at least.) Possibly a museum of (say) military equipment and such will not object, but these are rare cases. In some cases not harm to the exhibition but also the annoyance factor to others motivates museum to prohibit flash. E.g. Glyptothek in Munich. Assuming a moderately to well lit museum with a range of subjects, I'd probably bring two or three fast lenses and ISO 400 or 800 film. If I thought it'd be a bit dimmer, I'd bring a small tripod. That's just me, of course. Same here, just an opinion! Happy shooting. Thomas -- Rod Smith, http://www.rodsbooks.com Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking |
#8
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[Einton Newstein wrote in rec.photo.film+labs]
I figured the lighting would require ISO-800 in order to shoot with f4 @ 1/32 sec. Here f4 is my lens's speed (medium format prime lens) and 1/32 sec is the speed I can barely hold steadily. But I'm not happy with any film with ISO-800. There's a quick rule of thumb I was taught (which has no bearing on whether it is safe to handhold in any given situation, but it might be interesting nonetheless). The reciprocal value of the longest focal length the lens is capable of is the slowest you can handhold at safely (specifically for 35mm). So if you are using a 50mm standard lens, you can hand-hold down to 1/60. If you're using a 28mm lens, you can get away with handholding with one less stop's worth of light at 1/30. If you're using a 200mm lens, you will struggle to handhold at less than 1/250. -- Regards, Andy Davidson http://www.fotoserve.com/ - Great value digital printing in the UK. |
#9
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[Einton Newstein wrote in rec.photo.film+labs]
I figured the lighting would require ISO-800 in order to shoot with f4 @ 1/32 sec. Here f4 is my lens's speed (medium format prime lens) and 1/32 sec is the speed I can barely hold steadily. But I'm not happy with any film with ISO-800. There's a quick rule of thumb I was taught (which has no bearing on whether it is safe to handhold in any given situation, but it might be interesting nonetheless). The reciprocal value of the longest focal length the lens is capable of is the slowest you can handhold at safely (specifically for 35mm). So if you are using a 50mm standard lens, you can hand-hold down to 1/60. If you're using a 28mm lens, you can get away with handholding with one less stop's worth of light at 1/30. If you're using a 200mm lens, you will struggle to handhold at less than 1/250. -- Regards, Andy Davidson http://www.fotoserve.com/ - Great value digital printing in the UK. |
#10
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It is not a simple issue. Are you using a SLR with a moving mirror, or a
rangefinder camera? When I was using a Mamiya 645 I found that with a 55mm lens I could hand hold 1/15 sec if I leaned against a wall. With my Fuji GS645S (fixed 60mm) I can easilly hand-hold 1/8 sec. if leaning against a wall. I never use anything faster than 400 speed film for interiors. |
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