zoom error.....cannot fix my camera!

Can anyone PLEASE help me? I have a FUJIFILM FINEPIX Z1 camera
and it does not take pictures anymore. On the front of screen
constantly reads ZOOM ERROR. Does anyone know how I can fix this
problem???

Thanks ever so much,
Tina

--
Posted at author's request, using moderated http://www.DigiForumz.com interface
Thread archive: http://www.DigiForumz.com/zoom-error...pict12106.html

"littlemomma" wrote in message
news:126146_675509c4fc41bc2b44461ce83229a3c6@digif orumz.com...
Can anyone PLEASE help me? I have a FUJIFILM FINEPIX Z1 camera
and it does not take pictures anymore. On the front of screen
constantly reads ZOOM ERROR. Does anyone know how I can fix this
problem???

A piece of grit stuck between the lens body and the camera body is one
possibility. Help the lens zoom out by gently pulling on it and if that
works, clean the lens tube surface with a cloth dampened with just a little
silicone spray.

littlemomma wrote:
Can anyone PLEASE help me? I have a FUJIFILM FINEPIX Z1 camera
and it does not take pictures anymore. On the front of screen
constantly reads ZOOM ERROR. Does anyone know how I can fix this
problem???

http://www.fujifilmusa.com/support/S...odcat =234644

"Service can be obtained by taking or sending your unit to a
Fujifilm Authorized Service Center, or the Factory Service Center.
If your unit is covered under warranty, you will receive an
acknowledgment. If your unit is not covered under warranty, you
will receive an estimate for the repair prior to any work being
done."

--
Ray Fischer

Get a DSLR, used, for $200 and never look back.

"littlemomma" wrote in message
news:126146_675509c4fc41bc2b44461ce83229a3c6@digif orumz.com...
Can anyone PLEASE help me? I have a FUJIFILM FINEPIX Z1 camera
and it does not take pictures anymore. On the front of screen
constantly reads ZOOM ERROR. Does anyone know how I can fix this
problem???

Thanks ever so much,
Tina

--
Posted at author's request, using moderated http://www.DigiForumz.com
interface
Thread archive:
http://www.DigiForumz.com/zoom-error...pict12106.html

littlemomma wrote:

Can anyone PLEASE help me? I have a FUJIFILM FINEPIX Z1 camera
and it does not take pictures anymore. On the front of screen
constantly reads ZOOM ERROR. Does anyone know how I can fix this
problem???

My buddy had a similar issue with his Fuji A920 compact recently. The
lens would come half-way out, than the camera would shut down. Contact
Fuji Repair and get an estimate. If the camera is worth spending money
on, given the price of new ones today (I don't know that Z1), send it in
based on their estimate. (His bill was something like $68; the camera
cost him about $130 last year; I'm not sure I'd have had the repair done,
but he did.)


--
Blinky
Killing all posts from Google Groups
The Usenet Improvement Project: http://improve-usenet.org
Need a new news feed? http://blinkynet.net/comp/newfeed.html

On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 18:23:49 -0500, "RichA" wrote:

Get a DSLR, used, for $200 and never look back.


In case you missed them, here's just a few of the vast benefits of P&S cameras
and the huge related drawbacks of ALL DSLRs (some sections further edited for
clarity):


1. P&S cameras can have more seamless zoom range than any DSLR glass in
existence. (E.g. 9mm f2.7 - 1248mm f/3.5.) (100% proved in another thread.)

2. P&S cameras can have much wider apertures at longer focal lengths than any
DSLR glass in existence. (E.g. 549mm f/2.4 and 1248mm f/3.5), and higher quality
full-frame 180-degree circular fisheye and intermediate super-wide-angle views
than any DSLR and its glass in existence. (100% proved in another thread.)

3. P&S smaller sensor cameras can and do have wider dynamic range than larger
sensor cameras E.g. a 1/2.5" sized sensor can have a 10.3EV Dynamic Range vs. an
APS-C's typical 7.0-8.0EV Dynamic Range. One quick example:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3142/...7ceaf3a1_o.jpg )

4. P&S cameras are silent. They will not endanger your life when photographing
potentially dangerous wildlife by alerting them to your presence. Or for the
more common snap-shooter/photographer, you will not be barred from using your
camera at public events and ceremonies. Or when trying to capture candid shots,
you won't so easily alert all those within a block around, from the obnoxious
noise that your DSLR is making, that you are capturing anyone's images.

5. P&S cameras can have shutter speeds up to 1/40,000th of a second. Allowing
you to capture fast subject motion in nature (e.g. insect and hummingbird wings)
WITHOUT the need of artificial and image destroying flash, using available light
alone. Nor will their wing shapes be unnaturally distorted from the focal-plane
shutter distortions imparted in any fast moving objects, as when photographed
with all DSLRs. (See focal-plane-shutter-distortions example image link in #7.)

6. P&S cameras can have full-frame flash-sync up to and including shutter-speeds
of 1/40,000th of a second. E.g.
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/Samples:_...%26_Flash-Sync

7. P&S cameras do not suffer from focal-plane shutter drawbacks and limitations.
Causing camera shake, moving-subject image distortions (focal-plane-shutter
distortions, e.g.
http://images3.wikia.nocookie.net/ch...istortions.jpg
do note the distorted tail-rotor too and its shadow on the ground, 90-degrees
from one another), last-century-slow flash-sync, obnoxiously loud slapping
mirrors and shutter curtains, shorter mechanical life, easily damaged, expensive
repair costs, etc.

8. Some P&S cameras can run the revolutionary CHDK software on them, which
allows for lightning-fast motion detection (literally, lightning fast, able to
capture lightning strikes automatically) so that you may capture more elusive
and shy animals (in still-frame and video) where any evidence of your presence
at all might prevent their appearance. Without the need of carrying a tethered
laptop along or any other hardware into remote areas--which only limits your
range, distance, and time allotted for bringing back that one-of-a-kind image.
It also allows for unattended time-lapse photography for days and weeks at a
time, so that you may capture those unusual or intriguing subject-studies in
nature. E.g. a rare slime-mold's propagation, that you happened to find in a
mountain-ravine, 10-days hike from the nearest laptop or other time-lapse
hardware. (The wealth of astounding new features that CHDK brings to the
creative-table of photography are too extensive to begin to list them all here.
See http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK )

9. When doing wildlife photography in remote and rugged areas and harsh
environments, or even when the amateur snap-shooter is trying to take their
vacation photos on a beach or dusty intersection on some city street, you're not
worrying about trying to change lenses in time to get that shot (fewer missed
shots), dropping one in the mud, lake, surf, or concrete while you do, and not
worrying about ruining all the rest of your photos that day from having gotten
dust & crud on the sensor. For the adventurous photographer you're no longer
weighed down by many many extra pounds of unneeded glass, allowing you to carry
more of the important supplies, like food and water, allowing you to trek much
further than you've ever been able to travel before with your old D/SLR bricks.

10. Smaller sensors and the larger apertures available allow for the deep DOF
required for excellent macro-photography, WITHOUT the need of any image
destroying, subject irritating, natural-look destroying flash. No DSLR on the
planet can compare in the quality of available-light macro photography that can
be accomplished with nearly any smaller-sensor P&S camera.

11. P&S cameras include video, and some even provide for CD-quality stereo audio
recordings, so that you might capture those rare events in nature where a
still-frame alone could never prove all those "scientists" wrong. E.g. recording
the paw-drumming communication patterns of eusocial-living field-mice.

12. P&S cameras have 100% viewfinder coverage that exactly matches your final
image. No important bits lost, and no chance of ruining your composition by
trying to "guess" what will show up in the final image. With the ability to
overlay live RGB-histograms, and under/over-exposure area alerts (and dozens of
other important shooting data) directly on your electronic viewfinder display
you are also not going to guess if your exposure might be right this time. Nor
do you have to remove your eye from the view of your subject to check some
external LCD histogram display, ruining your chances of getting that perfect
shot when it happens.

13. P&S cameras can and do focus in lower-light (which is common in natural
settings) than any DSLRs in existence, due to electronic viewfinders and sensors
that can be increased in gain for framing and focusing purposes as light-levels
drop. Some P&S cameras can even take images (AND videos) in total darkness by
using IR illumination alone. (See: Sony) No other multi-purpose cameras are
capable of taking still-frame and videos of nocturnal wildlife as easily nor as
well. Shooting videos and still-frames of nocturnal animals in the total-dark,
without disturbing their natural behavior by the use of flash, from 90 ft. away
with a 549mm f/2.4 lens is not only possible, it's been done, many times, by
myself. (An interesting and true story: one wildlife photographer was nearly
stomped to death by an irate moose that attacked where it saw his camera's flash
come from.)

14. Without the need to use flash in all situations, and a P&S's nearly 100%
silent operation, you are not disturbing your wildlife, neither scaring it away
nor changing their natural behavior with your existence. Nor, as previously
mentioned, drawing its defensive behavior in your direction. You are recording
nature as it is, and should be, not some artificial human-changed distortion of
reality and nature.

15. Nature photography requires that the image be captured with the greatest
degree of accuracy possible. NO focal-plane shutter in existence, with its
inherent focal-plane-shutter distortions imparted on any moving subject will
EVER capture any moving subject in nature 100% accurately. A leaf-shutter or
electronic shutter, as is found in ALL P&S cameras, will capture your moving
subject in nature with 100% accuracy. Your P&S photography will no longer lead a
biologist nor other scientist down another DSLR-distorted path of non-reality.

16. Some P&S cameras have shutter-lag times that are even shorter than all the
popular DSLRs, due to the fact that they don't have to move those agonizingly
slow and loud mirrors and shutter curtains in time before the shot is recorded.

17. An electronic viewfinder, as exists in all P&S cameras, can accurately relay
the camera's shutter-speed in real-time. Giving you a 100% accurate preview of
what your final subject is going to look like when shot at 3 seconds or
1/20,000th of a second. Your soft waterfall effects, or the crisp sharp outlines
of your stopped-motion hummingbird wings will be 100% accurately depicted in
your viewfinder before you even record the shot. What you see in a P&S camera is
truly what you get. You won't have to guess in advance at what shutter speed to
use to obtain those artistic effects or those scientifically accurate nature
studies that you require or that your client requires. When testing CHDK P&S
cameras that could have shutter speeds as fast as 1/40,000th of a second, I was
amazed that I could half-depress the shutter and watch in the viewfinder as a
Dremel-Drill's 30,000 rpm rotating disk was stopped in crisp detail in real
time, without ever having taken an example shot yet. Similarly true when
lowering shutter speeds for milky-water effects when shooting rapids and falls,
instantly seeing the effect in your viewfinder. Poor DSLR-trolls will never
realize what they are missing with their anciently slow focal-plane shutters and
wholly inaccurate optical viewfinders.

18. P&S cameras can obtain the very same bokeh (out of focus foreground and
background) as any DSLR by just increasing your focal length, through use of its
own built-in super-zoom lens or attaching a high-quality telextender on the
front. Just back up from your subject more than you usually would with a DSLR.
Framing and the background included is relative to the subject at the time and
has nothing at all to do with the kind of camera and lens in use. Your f/ratio
(which determines your depth-of-field), is a computation of focal-length divided
by aperture diameter. Increase the focal-length and you make your DOF shallower.
No different than opening up the aperture to accomplish the same. The two
methods are identically related where DOF is concerned.

19. ..... this is getting tedious, restating again just some of the
resident-troll's misinformation that I've already disproved, dozens of times
over. I just thought it might be fun to list a few of them all in one place to
make their glaringly obvious stupidity (and the ignorance and inexperience of
all the other virtual-photographer DSLR-trolls) even more glaringly obvious to
the world.

harveyatkins wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 18:23:49 -0500, "RichA" wrote:

Get a DSLR, used, for $200 and never look back.


In case you missed them, here's just a few of the vast benefits of P&S cameras

Posting dishonest bull**** again doesn't make it one bit less
dishonest.

--
Ray Fischer

On 03 Nov 2008 06:32:37 GMT, (Ray Fischer) wrote:

harveyatkins wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 18:23:49 -0500, "RichA" wrote:

Get a DSLR, used, for $200 and never look back.


In case you missed them, here's just a few of the vast benefits of P&S cameras

Posting dishonest bull**** again doesn't make it one bit less
dishonest.


"At every crossway on the road that leads to the future, each progressive spirit
is opposed by a thousand fools appointed to guard the past." - Maeterlinck


Anyone with the least bit of intelligence and photography experience will not
read one bit of "bull****" in that list. But someone like you? Someone with zero
photography experience. Then yes, it will seem like all "bull****" to you. How
could you know different, you can't. You've just revealed yourself to be nothing
more than a virtual-photographer and self-evident resident-troll.

Thanks for revealing your lack of experience with ANY camera. You now have zero
credibility online. Try another newsgroup where you won't be so obvious in your
virtual role-play life.

Thank you harveyatkins for all your intelligent advice and everyone
else for that matter I appreciate the input. A question
concerning repair though I found a 1-888 number and called. Could
they not give me advice for free and maybe I won’t have to take it in
and pay for repair? I am hoping they can do this. The camera a few
years ago was $400 so if it costs only $70 or so to repair it is worth
it for me.

Thanks again,
Tina

"harveyatkins" wrote:
On 03 Nov 2008 06:32:37 GMT, (Ray Fischer)
wrote:

harveyatkins wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 18:23:49 -0500, "RichA" wrote:

Get a DSLR, used, for $200 and never look back.


In case you missed them, here's just a few of the vast
benefits of P&S cameras

Posting dishonest bull**** again doesn't make it one bit less
dishonest.


"At every crossway on the road that leads to the future, each
progressive spirit
is opposed by a thousand fools appointed to guard the past."
- Maeterlinck


Anyone with the least bit of intelligence and photography
experience will not
read one bit of "bull****" in that list. But someone like you?
Someone with zero
photography experience. Then yes, it will seem like all
"bull****" to you. How
could you know different, you can't. You've just revealed
yourself to be nothing
more than a virtual-photographer and self-evident
resident-troll.

Thanks for revealing your lack of experience with ANY camera.
You now have zero
credibility online. Try another newsgroup where you won't be
so obvious in your
virtual role-play life.

On Mon, 03 Nov 2008 11:22:54 -0600, littlemomma wrote:

I am hoping they can do this. The camera a few years ago was $400
so if it costs only $70 or so to repair it is worth it for me.

Are you really sure that repairing it would be worth it? When it
was discontinued several years ago the Finepix Z1 was selling for
less than $300. Today, Amazon lists several of them ranging from
$149 (used) to $235 (new). But the Z1 is old and slow by today's
standards and you can get similar slim subcompact cameras that
produce pictures having better image quality and with features
missing from your Z1 such as image stabilization. For instance, B&H
sells Canon's SD1100 for $163 and Panasonic's very small DMC-LZ8
(the only one listed here that uses AA batteries) for $118. If you
don't need image stabilization, there's Fuji's Finepix Z20fd for
$130 and Pentax's Optio Z10 for $149.