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#21
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I believe Kodak Portra is the latest version of the film you are
describing. It comes in different versions. The one I will be using should be "reduced contrast". I hope that will solve the white and black issue. I am planning to use ISO 400 or 800 so I can hand hold the camera and us a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate camera shake. The posed shots will be done with studio lights; two 600ws Powerlights and an 1200 power pack with 2 heads. Again that should take care of camera shake. I might even take my boom arm to use for highlights. I have used this same equipment with 35mm. I had a couple poster size enlargements made that the recipient loved. A photographer might not have loved them but the subject did. Hanging on a wall in a large room they were fine. I also tend to use a soft focus filter. That seems to help. I am an amateur and guest at the wedding with some professional equipment and a little knowledge doing a favor for two friends. I would never agree to do a wedding for money. "Jeremy" wrote in message nk.net... "hba1c" wrote in message om... As I said they want to do the "posed" shots before the ceremony because they will not have time between the ceremony and reception. If you lack experience and proper equipment, it will probably show up more on the posed shots than on the candids. People are going to have a certain level of expectation on those formal shots, which they would not have on candids. If your photos are intended for enlargement, I would try to do as much work as possible using a tripod. That may be a bit clumsy, but you have to work to closer tolerances in 35mm. Any camera shake will show up when the photos are blown up, and the lab can't help you because it cannot be corrected. I haven't shot a wedding in 30 years, so I can't give you current film recommendations. I used Vericolor back then, because it was a low contrast film, with excellent flesh tones. You want to use a low contrast emulsion so that the detail in the bride's dress and the groom's tux is visible. If you were to use a typical consumer emulsion, you run the risk that the dress is displayed as one big blob of "white," and the tux is all black--and there is nothing worse than blown-out highlights in wedding photos. I found a "pro pack" of Porta 160NC 135-8 (10 rolls). Since they are not looking for the numerous shots a real wedding photographer would take, I was thinking I would use a couple of those rolls for the posed shots with studio lights before the ceremony and for the shots coming down the aisle with my flash. Then I could load a roll of ISO 400 or 800 for the ceremony. I could use another roll of 135-8 for when they start out of the church. Then I would use a roll of 160NC or Reala (I have had good luck with Reala) for the reception. When I last talked with the bride, she only told me about a handful of shots she actually wanted so I think this will more than cover it without spending a huge amount of money on film. It also means that I can still be a "guest" for some of the time! The processing will be done by a professional lab http://www.profilmet.com/. Does this sound like a workable plan? |
#22
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hba1c, à écrit :
They know to take what the get since I am not a professional. Without me, they will not have much of anything so... You'r choice is good ! I have very liked the Reala for portrait photography. You can also try the NPH 400, it's a very good film. You do not want to try b&w ?! http://www.monochromatique.com/portrait/ Regards -- Daniel Rocha - Photographie http://www.monochromatique.com |
#23
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hba1c, à écrit :
They know to take what the get since I am not a professional. Without me, they will not have much of anything so... You'r choice is good ! I have very liked the Reala for portrait photography. You can also try the NPH 400, it's a very good film. You do not want to try b&w ?! http://www.monochromatique.com/portrait/ Regards -- Daniel Rocha - Photographie http://www.monochromatique.com |
#24
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"Bob Hickey" wrote in message ...
"hba1c" wrote in message om... NPS, either one, but all from the same batch and w/ the same flash. No lab is going to correct each frame. You could wind up w/ a lot of good shots rejected "cause of the color cast on a few. Bob Hickey What does "Individually video analyzed" mean when I see "Film Processing / Proofing" on a list of service? I have only sent my films to labs that provided that service. |
#25
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Two of my friends are getting married. They don't have the funds to hire a photographer so they were just going to put disposable cameras around and use those photos. They asked me to take a few shots. By chance I have studio equipment (Photogenic PowerLights®, Photogenic PhotoMaster). I was planning to take some posed shots with my studio lights before the ceremony. The want a shot coming down the aisle and just two or three during the ceremony. I can use flash when the are coming down the aisle but not during the ceremony. I don't know what the lighting situation is in the church. I was planning on taking Portra 100NC for the posed shots, coming down the aisle, and some candid shots at the reception. I was thinking Portra 400NC or Porta 800 for during the ceremony. I was also thinking a roll of Reala. They know to take what the get since I am not a professional. Without me, they will not have much of anything so... I will be traveling 250 miles the day before and I may not have access to refrigeration. Any thoughts? refrigeration is not that critical, do you think they ship it across the country through deserts and the plains in refrigerated trucks? I think not. so, what kind of paper does your lab run? A lot of folks would reply it shouldn't make that much difference, which is my reply to the question of film, it does astonish me that of all the concerns about shooting the wedding, the first and only question asked is, what film? do a google groups search on my name as there are lots of posts on how to shoot weddings |
#26
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#27
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In article , Marc 182
wrote: 1. Don't do it. An option. Leaves the couple with snaps taken with disposable plastic cameras scattered around. Do you really think that's a better result than what an interested and alert amateur can produce with a good 35mm? OK, screw it up and make enemies for life. 2. Use medium format. Not an option. They don't have the money to pay for that. Sometimes people just can't afford your snobbery. It's not snobbery, but then you amateurs just wouldn't understand. I wish they would take safety warning labels off of things and allow the idiots of the world to kill themselves. |
#28
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Means the lab uses a device that allows them to see
the image as a positive image before printing. All color and contrast adjustment is done, similar to how you would do it in Photoshop. End result still depends on the operators perception and how closely they are paying attention. Perhaps no better or worse than a good mini lab were someone actually cares. In article , (hba1c) wrote: "Bob Hickey" wrote in message ... "hba1c" wrote in message om... NPS, either one, but all from the same batch and w/ the same flash. No lab is going to correct each frame. You could wind up w/ a lot of good shots rejected "cause of the color cast on a few. Bob Hickey What does "Individually video analyzed" mean when I see "Film Processing / Proofing" on a list of service? I have only sent my films to labs that provided that service. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#29
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hba1c wrote:
I appreciate your advice! As I said I don't do this very often. The church is 250 miles from my home so I will not see it until the day of the event or maybe the night before. I am just going to have to use the ISO 400 or 800 whichever will work. Maybe grab a roll of Ilford Delta 1600 or 3200, these are B&W T-grain films, but with 3200ASA you should be able to just make out the sleeping Black cat in the coal bin at midnight, with overcast conditions. If the light is really bad, then use those for the service and keep the colour for where you can control the light better. Considering that the Bride is wearing a white dress, and the groom a Black suit, who needs colour? Actually I am not working. I believe I am the only one that will be attending the wedding that will have anything but a point and shoot or less. I am doing this as a favor to them. I have told them several times that I am not a professional and that it could work out okay or not so okay. I really think I could satisfy them by taking a few shots with my camera on automatic with my flash and flash bracket. Hmmm, maybe this would be a good opportunity, do something unusual, like B&W, many labs that can handle B&W will print them on colour paper, with the filterpack set for a nice sepia toning. Looks like it could have been done in 1904 as easily as 2004, especially if your using a grainy film, because of low light. These are the kinds of photos that people hang on the wall, because they have so few of this kind of photo. Since I am doing this as a favor, I can't really afford to shoot rolls of film before the event. I have used Kodak VPS and similar many times with acceptable results. I doubt using Portra will be a problem. I am an amateur and guest at the wedding with some professional equipment and a little knowledge doing a favor for two friends. I would never agree to do a wedding for money. I would make the resulting photos your wedding gift to them, so film and processing costs should be kept within reason. A test roll is to save you using a film you don't know, and not liking the result. W |
#30
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"hba1c" wrote in message
I will be traveling 250 miles the day before and I may not have access to refrigeration. Any thoughts? Portra or Take two half gallon (2L) pop or water bottles, drink the pop (get one you like), then fill with water to within 20% of the top, put in the freezer a few days before. Get one of those cheap Styrofoam coolers (Under $5 at Walmart). When your ready to leave, take the film boxes and put them in the cooler inside a plastic shopping bag (no holes), along with your frozen bottles. The frozen bottles will suck up any heat as it thaws, keeping your film nice and cold. The plastic bottles will keep the water from getting everywhere. This works in warm weather if the temps are less then 50F/10C then don't worry about it. W |
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