Yashica Lynx RF, and a polariser?

Howdy everyone,

I have recently become fascinated with rangefinder photography because of the focusing
style, the result of bad eyes. In this discovery process I also found that many older
Japanese cameras have lenses that are hyper sharp (to the epitomy of it), including Yashicas
and Konicas (88 LPM?? WOW!). So I bought a few good deals on the *bay, including a
great condition Lynx 14 which I mostly want to use, though it is a huge and heavy machine.
I know I need to work out a way to get it powered accurately for the meter but the main
curiosity is using a polariser.

I figured, since the meter cell is not behind the filter ring on the front of the lens (which it
should be), there must be a way of understanding the variable filter factors as the polariser
turns, and according to where the thread stops when screwing the filter into the front lens
thread, so there should be markings on the the non-moving rear part of the filter, using
silver metalic marking pen or different marking on both rings using different colors,
matching color-to-color lines.

Or some idea like this, does anyone have the right idea on how this should be done? Or is
there a good article out on the 'net?

TIA,

--
xenarshooter

"xenarshooter" wrote in message
...

Howdy everyone,

I have recently become fascinated with rangefinder photography because of
the focusing
style, the result of bad eyes. In this discovery process I also found
that many older
Japanese cameras have lenses that are hyper sharp (to the epitomy of it),
including Yashicas
and Konicas (88 LPM?? WOW!). So I bought a few good deals on the *bay,
including a
great condition Lynx 14 which I mostly want to use, though it is a huge
and heavy machine.
I know I need to work out a way to get it powered accurately for the meter
but the main
curiosity is using a polariser.

I figured, since the meter cell is not behind the filter ring on the front
of the lens (which it
should be), there must be a way of understanding the variable filter
factors as the polariser
turns, and according to where the thread stops when screwing the filter
into the front lens
thread, so there should be markings on the the non-moving rear part of the
filter, using silver metalic marking pen or different marking on both
rings using different colors,
matching color-to-color lines.

Or some idea like this, does anyone have the right idea on how this should
be done? Or is
there a good article out on the 'net?

TIA,


May be wrong here but as far as I know the filter factor for a polarizer is
constant (something like 1.5 stops) no matter which position the polarizer
is in. You will want the image you choose (lighter, darker etc) to be
recorded on the film as you see it. Any kind of variable factor would
cancel this out.

The problem with using a polarizer on a rangefinder is that you cannot look
through the lens to see the polarizing effect. This means you have to screw
it off the lens, adjust to the position you want by looking through just the
polarizer itself, then screw it back to to the lens and adjust to the same
position, by putting a temporary mark on the top or some other means.

I've played with this in the past and mostly it's not worth the hassle.

"Norm Fleming" wrote in message
...

"xenarshooter" wrote in message
...

Howdy everyone,

I have recently become fascinated with rangefinder photography because of
the focusing
style, the result of bad eyes. In this discovery process I also found
that many older
Japanese cameras have lenses that are hyper sharp (to the epitomy of it),
including Yashicas
and Konicas (88 LPM?? WOW!). So I bought a few good deals on the *bay,
including a
great condition Lynx 14 which I mostly want to use, though it is a huge
and heavy machine.
I know I need to work out a way to get it powered accurately for the
meter but the main
curiosity is using a polariser.

I figured, since the meter cell is not behind the filter ring on the
front of the lens (which it
should be), there must be a way of understanding the variable filter
factors as the polariser
turns, and according to where the thread stops when screwing the filter
into the front lens
thread, so there should be markings on the the non-moving rear part of
the filter, using silver metalic marking pen or different marking on both
rings using different colors,
matching color-to-color lines.

Or some idea like this, does anyone have the right idea on how this
should be done? Or is
there a good article out on the 'net?

TIA,


May be wrong here but as far as I know the filter factor for a polarizer
is constant (something like 1.5 stops) no matter which position the
polarizer is in. You will want the image you choose (lighter, darker etc)
to be recorded on the film as you see it. Any kind of variable factor
would cancel this out.

The problem with using a polarizer on a rangefinder is that you cannot
look through the lens to see the polarizing effect. This means you have
to screw it off the lens, adjust to the position you want by looking
through just the polarizer itself, then screw it back to to the lens and
adjust to the same position, by putting a temporary mark on the top or
some other means.

I've played with this in the past and mostly it's not worth the hassle.

On Sep 18, 4:30 pm, "xenarshooter" wrote:
Howdy everyone,

I have recently become fascinated with rangefinder photography because of the focusing
style, the result of bad eyes. In this discovery process I also found that many older
Japanese cameras have lenses that are hyper sharp (to the epitomy of it), including Yashicas
and Konicas (88 LPM?? WOW!). So I bought a few good deals on the *bay, including a
great condition Lynx 14 which I mostly want to use, though it is a huge and heavy machine.
I know I need to work out a way to get it powered accurately for the meter but the main
curiosity is using a polariser.

One thing to do with a rangefinder is to get a cheap second polarizer
to keep
in your pocket. Make marks on both of them to make sure you are
setting
them the same way, look at the cheap one with your eye and set the one
on the camera to match. (I bought a few "Optex video polartizers" at
Henry's a few years ago for two loonies each, they are fine for this
purpose.)

I figured, since the meter cell is not behind the filter ring on the front of the lens (which it
should be), there must be a way of understanding the variable filter factors as the polariser
turns

Filter factor is constant for non-polarized light, Usually a filter
factor of 4 (two stops)
is about right, but it might be more or less than this depending on
the brand.

If the documetation that came with your polarizer doesn't give you a
figure
then measure somthing non-polarized (roads are pretty good) with your
lightmeter both with and without the filter. I just tried this with
my
cheapie polarizer and got exactly 2 stops.

Peter.
--

"xenarshooter" wrote in message
...

Howdy everyone,

I have recently become fascinated with rangefinder photography because of
the focusing
style, the result of bad eyes. In this discovery process I also found
that many older
Japanese cameras have lenses that are hyper sharp (to the epitomy of it),
including Yashicas
and Konicas (88 LPM?? WOW!). So I bought a few good deals on the *bay,
including a
great condition Lynx 14 which I mostly want to use, though it is a huge
and heavy machine.
I know I need to work out a way to get it powered accurately for the meter
but the main
curiosity is using a polariser.

I figured, since the meter cell is not behind the filter ring on the front
of the lens (which it
should be), there must be a way of understanding the variable filter
factors as the polariser
turns, and according to where the thread stops when screwing the filter
into the front lens
thread, so there should be markings on the the non-moving rear part of the
filter, using
silver metalic marking pen or different marking on both rings using
different colors,
matching color-to-color lines.

Or some idea like this, does anyone have the right idea on how this should
be done? Or is
there a good article out on the 'net?

TIA,

xenarshooter
Most don't believe it, but I've found that the filter factor on polarizers
is the same regardless of how it's turned. The problem is finding what it is
in the first place. Maybe 1 1/2 or 2 stops. Tha good news is that it doesn't
have a meter to confuse it, so you can use the cheaper linear filter, which
works better anyway. BTW, if you run into a WALZ rf, don't let it get away.
Heavy but really nice cameras.
Bob Hickey