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#11
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Chadwick wrote: I just read in Amateur Photographer that Fuji are to permanently cease production of Velvia 50 in a year's time. Apparently they can't get one of the magic ingredients. Same thing happened to Kodachrome 25! |
#12
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On 1 Mar 2005 10:24:26 -0800, "Chadwick"
wrote: Alan Browne wrote: Chadwick wrote: Charlie Waite (UK landscape pro) says he knows of people who will buy up £5000 of the outgoing 50 and freeze it. Film is already frozen up to well over 50 deg C. You mean cold store. ... One rule of thumb (and probably more myth than fact) is that for every 10°C below fridge temp, the storage life of unexposed slide film is doubled. So at -17°C the storage life would be something on the order of 10 years. Maybe I did mean frozen then? I think (but he *can* be confusing) Alan's point was film is in it's frozen state at room-temperature. Much like the glass in your lenses which are made of liquid that is frozen at the factory before being shipped to the stores. Luckily it stays frozen at the temperatures we use them at. -- Owamanga! |
#13
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On 1 Mar 2005 10:24:26 -0800, "Chadwick"
wrote: Alan Browne wrote: Chadwick wrote: Charlie Waite (UK landscape pro) says he knows of people who will buy up £5000 of the outgoing 50 and freeze it. Film is already frozen up to well over 50 deg C. You mean cold store. ... One rule of thumb (and probably more myth than fact) is that for every 10°C below fridge temp, the storage life of unexposed slide film is doubled. So at -17°C the storage life would be something on the order of 10 years. Maybe I did mean frozen then? I think (but he *can* be confusing) Alan's point was film is in it's frozen state at room-temperature. Much like the glass in your lenses which are made of liquid that is frozen at the factory before being shipped to the stores. Luckily it stays frozen at the temperatures we use them at. -- Owamanga! |
#14
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#15
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#16
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Chadwick wrote:
doubled. So at -17°C the storage life would be something on the order of 10 years. Maybe I did mean frozen then? I was just quoting what the magazine said. Sure, the magazine writers are a bit thoughtless sometimes, but film is a solid at the normal range of temperatures so it can't be frozen any more than that. It'll be interesting to see what replaces it. Currently you flick through a magazine and nearly all the shots (especially landscapes) are on Velvia 50. I've been thinking about trying it, and only put off by the fact that it is a transparency film and I have zero equipment to handle transparancies. But I've just got a new scanner that can take them, so maybe I'll take the plunge. Do your training on something a little less contrasty like Sensia 100. Velvia is beautiful but narrow latitude for your exposure. If you spot meter a highlight in your scene and then open 1.7 or 2.0 stops, you'll usually do fine. Also use the spotmeter to 'scan' the scene and make sure that it fits into +/- 2 stops of your exposure. Every thing outside of that will be black or clear on the slide. For older scanners, and additional 1/3 exposure will 'thin' out the slide for an easier scan. The 12bit and higher scanners generally have less problems with denser slides. (I'm talking about film scanners, not flatbed). If you don't have a spot meter it will be tougher to nail the exposure. An incident meter is a good way as well, but nailing highlights is less certain. Cheers, Alan -- -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. |
#17
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Owamanga wrote:
I think (but he *can* be confusing) Alan's point was film is in it's You make it sound intentional... snif. -- -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. |
#18
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Owamanga schrieb:
On 1 Mar 2005 10:24:26 -0800, "Chadwick" wrote: I think (but he *can* be confusing) Alan's point was film is in it's frozen state at room-temperature. Much like the glass in your lenses which are made of liquid that is frozen at the factory before being shipped to the stores. Luckily it stays frozen at the temperatures we use them at. No. The glass in lenses (and elsewhere) is still liquid! Is just flows very slowly. Walter |
#19
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Owamanga schrieb:
On 1 Mar 2005 10:24:26 -0800, "Chadwick" wrote: I think (but he *can* be confusing) Alan's point was film is in it's frozen state at room-temperature. Much like the glass in your lenses which are made of liquid that is frozen at the factory before being shipped to the stores. Luckily it stays frozen at the temperatures we use them at. No. The glass in lenses (and elsewhere) is still liquid! Is just flows very slowly. Walter |
#20
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Alan Browne wrote: Do your training on something a little less contrasty like Sensia 100. Velvia is beautiful but narrow latitude for your exposure. If you spot meter a highlight in your scene and then open 1.7 or 2.0 stops, you'll usually do fine. Also use the spotmeter to 'scan' the scene and make sure that it fits into +/- 2 stops of your exposure. Every thing outside of that will be black or clear on the slide. For older scanners, and additional 1/3 exposure will 'thin' out the slide for an easier scan. The 12bit and higher scanners generally have less problems with denser slides. (I'm talking about film scanners, not flatbed). If you don't have a spot meter it will be tougher to nail the exposure. An incident meter is a good way as well, but nailing highlights is less certain. Thanks for the advice. To be honest, I've still got a lot to learn in general, so I'm probably going to stick with normal film for the foreseeable future; it reduces the number of variables that affect my pictures. I only really considered Velvia at all because a) all the pros seem to use it, and b) when I scan and print my photos at home I usually need to increase the saturation. This latter point is probably due to poor general technique rather than the film I used (eg. I only just found out that my "misty morning" shots of recent weeks are looking washed out because I'm using centre-weighted metering, not spot metering, so even though I'm pointing the central focusing area at the ground to meter off it, there is still sky in the shot and that is giving me the "wrong" reading. Only by luck did I get one right because I'd left the right neutral grad on. It proved that it wasn't the camera screwing up - it was me.) |
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