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#1
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Treating cardboard? bellows on an Empire State View
On the 11x14 Improved Empire State view that I'm getting back into
shape, the bellows is black and on the outside of the bellows the inside surfaces of each of the folds seems to be made of some sort of cardboard? material being held together by what looks like thin leather or leather like material on the outside corners of each of the folds. Normally I have treated my other camera's all leather bellows with LEXOL leather conditioner. The bellows is light tight but a bit stiff. Is there any material that I can apply to this type of bellows to make it a bit more pliable? I'm pretty sure that the bellows is original, camera has seen little use. Thanks Greg |
#2
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"Gregory" wrote
The bellows is light tight but a bit stiff. Is there any material that I can apply to this type of bellows to make it a bit more pliable? Neetsfoot oil will make leather pliable, but it may make it _too_ pliable. As near as I can tell, Lexol is neetsfoot oil and saddle soap whipped up in water. This keeps you from applying too much of the oil. Try a bit. It might work if misted on to the bellows. After applying the oil I put the object in a warm oven for an hour or so. The oil is wonderful on gloves, dog collars and leashes, work and hiking boots (followed by Sno-Seal) -- anything of leather that you would like to make buttery soft. Just make sure you don't put on too much or it will ooze out and get oil all over everything. As for longevity, I have a set of hiking boots treated with the stuff in 1967, still good, still soft. Relegated to use behind the rotor-tiller these days. Wyoming Outdoor Products has the lowest price, last time I looked. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ |
#3
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"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote: "Gregory" wrote The bellows is light tight but a bit stiff. Is there any material that I can apply to this type of bellows to make it a bit more pliable? Neetsfoot oil will make leather pliable, but it may make it _too_ pliable. As near as I can tell, Lexol is neetsfoot oil and saddle soap whipped up in water. This keeps you from applying too much of the oil. Try a bit. It might work if misted on to the bellows. After applying the oil I put the object in a warm oven for an hour or so. The oil is wonderful on gloves, dog collars and leashes, work and hiking boots (followed by Sno-Seal) Snoseal is actually bad for leather, as it works into the leather fibers trapping dirt and grime, literally breaking down the leather over time. If you're using Lexol to clean and recondition leather, a light coat of silicon (paste or liquid) for water proofing would be better than a snoseal wax. -- anything of leather that you would like to make buttery soft. Just make sure you don't put on too much or it will ooze out and get oil all over everything. As for longevity, I have a set of hiking boots treated with the stuff in 1967, still good, still soft. Relegated to use behind the rotor-tiller these days. Wyoming Outdoor Products has the lowest price, last time I looked. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ |
#4
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The stiffeners are usually thick Manilla, the same material that
used to be used for file folders. Outside cover is leather, inside is rubberized cloth, usually cotton or silk. Modern synthetics last longer than leather and don't rot like rubber. Its possible these bellows use a material similar to the stiffener for the body and use leather only for the flexible joints. I''ve nver seen a bellows like that. According to the material on the Conservation On Line site at Stanford University, there really isn't much that can be done to leather to preserve it. Neat's foot oil will make it more pliable but will evidently actually accelerate rotting. Silicone treatmens are also a bad idea because they prevent the leather from "breathing". It is important for leather to be able to exchange moisture with the air. Probably the best treatment for leather bellows is to wipe surface dirt off of them occasionally with a damp (but not wet) cloth. Once leather begins to rot there is nothing that can be done to stop it. This is especially true of bellows because they are flexed in use. http://palimpsest.stanford.edu -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#5
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"Richard Knoppow" wrote
According to the material on the Conservation On Line site at Stanford University, there really isn't much that can be done to leather to preserve it. Egyptian style embalming? Neat's foot oil will make it more pliable but will evidently actually accelerate rotting. *** Newsflash *** "Neatsfoot Oil Good For Leather; contrary research results expected at 11." One has to decide what one wants: to use the bellows for another 40-80 years or to set them on a museum shelf for 120. Flexing dry leather will break it far faster than neatsfoot might accelerate any 'rot'. Going back to the Stanford U source [dedicated to preserving old books], they describe a set of tests for leather preservation: The four dressings used were 1) vaseline, 2) neatsfoot oil and lanolin 60/40, 3) oil-and-tallow emulsion in water, and 4) a mixture of lanolin, wax, castor oil, sodium stearate and water. The authors conclude that although the dressings provided some protection to all leathers, "their use was not adequate to prolong the life of the vegetable-tanned leather effectively." (They mention this because most leathers for bookbinding are vegetable-tanned.) If bellows leather is not 'vegetable tanned' the dressing will increase longevity, if it is then life will not be shortened. At the least, do no harm. Analyzing the figures for these dressings ... [discard #1 & #4] ... neatsfoot oil and lanolin did make a difference. One finds that the leather treated with this dressing retained about 10% of the strength (as measured by slit tear) that it would otherwise have lost over the years, judging by the performance of the untreated samples. The oil-and-tallow dressing was about half as effective as the neatsfoot oil and lanolin. From http://www.kb.nl/cons/leather/chapter2-en.html: At the British Museum HJ Plenderleith's study of leather dressings led him to develop the British Museum Leather Dressing which has since been used in many variations by conservators. The basic formula contains the following ingredients: 200 gram lanolin, 30 ml cedar oil, 15 gram beeswax, and 350 ml hexane. Sometimes 60% of the lanolin was replaced by neatsfoot oil. 'Real Men' use neatsfoot oil followed by SnoSeal (since Hubbard's Grease is no longer available) and set the leather by the fire for the wax and oil to penetrate the leather. They dispense with the Hexane, hand lotion and parfume, though a splash of whisky now and then has been found to be anecdotally beneficial. There are also formulas using lanolin, neatsfoot and 'oudorless kerosene'(?). Neatsfoot oil is rendered from cattle bones and is a close cousin to tallow. The theory is to return the fat to the leather so that it is 'lubricated'. Lanolin is sheep oil. Neatsfoot oil is also used on horses' hoofs. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ |
#6
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"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote: "Richard Knoppow" wrote snip.. 'Real Men' Apart from possible treatment of bellows leather using Lexol (which I can't see would do any real harm if used on accasion), real men are idiots... use neatsfoot oil followed by SnoSeal I still wear old fashioned hand made norwegian welt leather boots. I have new and no longer made. I would _never_ use snoseal on them. It breaks down the leather. Period. I know people who have been in the boot business for decades. They all say the same. Want you leather to last, forego the snoseal... (since Hubbard's Grease is no longer available) and set the leather by the fire for the wax and oil to penetrate the leather. Which is a sure way to add to your leather woes. Fire - leather = bad news. They dispense with the Hexane, hand lotion and parfume, though a splash of whisky now and then has been found to be anecdotally beneficial. There are also formulas using lanolin, neatsfoot and 'oudorless kerosene'(?). Neatsfoot oil is rendered from cattle bones and is a close cousin to tallow. The theory is to return the fat to the leather so that it is 'lubricated'. Lanolin is sheep oil. Neatsfoot oil is also used on horses' hoofs. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ |
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