DSLR won't meter longer than 30 seconds exposures.

I've come to notice that doing night shots, my Nikon D200 won't meter
longer than 30 seconds of exposure time. I don't have a remote release
and apparently the only way to exceed 30 seconds is to hold my finger on
the shutter. Is this common behavior for camera meter systems? Maybe I
missed something in the manual?

Here's an example image where the meter read "LO" but it was close
enough to look fine, a few minutes later there wasn't even enough light
to focus and it came out underexposed:
http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php&DIR=California/Bay-Area/San-Francisco/Natural-Areas/Presidio&PG=3&PIC=15

I know, I need a remote, just can't decide if the expensive Nikon model
is worth it & not sure if the cheap $40 third-party remotes will give me
what I need, or an older simpler used nikon remote... I suppose an
illuminated LCD display could be handy in the dark... speaking of not
reading the manual, I still can't figure out how to backlight the top
LCD on this beast... I don't do much shooting in extreme darkness.

In article , Paul
Furman wrote:

I've come to notice that doing night shots, my Nikon D200 won't meter
longer than 30 seconds of exposure time. I don't have a remote release
and apparently the only way to exceed 30 seconds is to hold my finger on
the shutter. Is this common behavior for camera meter systems? Maybe I
missed something in the manual?

Don't have a Nikon, but for 30 second exposures, check for "Bulb" or
similar in Manual mode, and yes, you either have to keep your finger on
the button or get a cable release that will lock in the "open"
position.

And "metering" won't work, either - you have to guestimate and
testimate your very long exposure shots.

--
You need only reflect that one of the best ways to get yourself a
reputation as a dangerous citizen these days is to go about repeating
the very phrases which our founding fathers used in the struggle for
independence.
-- Charles A. Beard

Paul Furman wrote:
I've come to notice that doing night shots, my Nikon D200 won't meter
longer than 30 seconds of exposure time. I don't have a remote release
and apparently the only way to exceed 30 seconds is to hold my finger
on the shutter. Is this common behavior for camera meter systems?
Maybe I missed something in the manual?

Here's an example image where the meter read "LO" but it was close
enough to look fine, a few minutes later there wasn't even enough
light to focus and it came out underexposed:
http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php&DIR=California/Bay-Area/San-Francisco/Natural-Areas/Presidio&PG=3&PIC=15

I know, I need a remote, just can't decide if the expensive Nikon
model is worth it & not sure if the cheap $40 third-party remotes
will give me what I need, or an older simpler used nikon remote... I
suppose an illuminated LCD display could be handy in the dark...
speaking of not reading the manual, I still can't figure out how to
backlight the top LCD on this beast... I don't do much shooting in
extreme darkness.

My Canon Timer remote was easily the best $135 I've spent related to
photogarphy.
Nikon likely makes a similar remote... With it, I can not only trip the
shutter (and prefocus if preferred), but I can tell it how many frames to
take...at what interval of time...and after waiting for a time I specify--
and how long to hold the shutter open (without having to hold it myself) up
to many hours(!) if necessary--though I would only suggest using film for
such an exposure. This is great for group shots where you are part of the
group, for example, because it means you can tell it to take 5 or 6 (or 99)
shots without having to walk back over the the the camera each time. It's
also got an illuminated LCD, which makes an awful lot of sense considering
that you'd often use it in dark settings.

Settings/controls include:
-Time until first frame
-Number of frames
-Time between each frame (interval)
-Shutter open time (up to 99 hours+)
-Start/Stop
-Shutter with half/full press
-Lock shutter switch (so you don't have to actually HOLD it down during
extremely long exposures)
-Adjustment wheel
-Ilumination button

Not bad for the $135. Surely Nikon has something simlar.

About your first question... It's normal to have a 30 second limit on even
high-end SLR/DSLRs for auto, or dialed-in exposure. Beyond that, you use
"bulb" setting, which is basically holding it down, as you said. -But of
course you'd never want to actually do that by hand. You need that remote
shutter release.

-Mark²

--
Images (Plus Snaps & Grabs) by Mark² at:
www.pbase.com/markuson

In article , Mark²
wrote:

Paul Furman wrote:
I've come to notice that doing night shots, my Nikon D200 won't meter
longer than 30 seconds of exposure time. I don't have a remote release
and apparently the only way to exceed 30 seconds is to hold my finger
on the shutter. Is this common behavior for camera meter systems?
Maybe I missed something in the manual?

Here's an example image where the meter read "LO" but it was close
enough to look fine, a few minutes later there wasn't even enough
light to focus and it came out underexposed:

http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php...San-Francisco/
Natural-Areas/Presidio&PG=3&PIC=15

I know, I need a remote, just can't decide if the expensive Nikon
model is worth it & not sure if the cheap $40 third-party remotes
will give me what I need, or an older simpler used nikon remote... I
suppose an illuminated LCD display could be handy in the dark...
speaking of not reading the manual, I still can't figure out how to
backlight the top LCD on this beast... I don't do much shooting in
extreme darkness.

My Canon Timer remote was easily the best $135 I've spent related to
photogarphy.
Nikon likely makes a similar remote... With it, I can not only trip the
shutter (and prefocus if preferred), but I can tell it how many frames to
take...at what interval of time...and after waiting for a time I specify--
and how long to hold the shutter open (without having to hold it myself) up
to many hours(!) if necessary--though I would only suggest using film for
such an exposure. This is great for group shots where you are part of the
group, for example, because it means you can tell it to take 5 or 6 (or 99)
shots without having to walk back over the the the camera each time. It's
also got an illuminated LCD, which makes an awful lot of sense considering
that you'd often use it in dark settings.

Settings/controls include:
-Time until first frame
-Number of frames
-Time between each frame (interval)
-Shutter open time (up to 99 hours+)
-Start/Stop
-Shutter with half/full press
-Lock shutter switch (so you don't have to actually HOLD it down during
extremely long exposures)
-Adjustment wheel
-Ilumination button

Not bad for the $135. Surely Nikon has something simlar.


I've drooled over one of those for some time (I just use the standard
RS-60E3 one), but they have a different connector than my 400D uses...
however, I was just looking over eBay and found a picture of one
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...8686399&fromMa
keTrack=true) that appears to have a mini or sub-mini stereo plug/jack
built right inline to the cable - and as my 400D/RS-60E3 combo uses a
standard stereo mini jack/plug, I could easily build an adapter to plu
into the 400D, as all it does via cable is act like a switch between
the various wires (nothing needed from the camera internals to
function) .... hmmmmm.....

Does yours have that jack/plug in the cable?

--
You need only reflect that one of the best ways to get yourself a
reputation as a dangerous citizen these days is to go about repeating
the very phrases which our founding fathers used in the struggle for
independence.
-- Charles A. Beard

Ken Lucke wrote:
In article , Mark²
wrote:

Paul Furman wrote:
I've come to notice that doing night shots, my Nikon D200 won't
meter longer than 30 seconds of exposure time. I don't have a
remote release and apparently the only way to exceed 30 seconds is
to hold my finger on the shutter. Is this common behavior for
camera meter systems? Maybe I missed something in the manual?

Here's an example image where the meter read "LO" but it was close
enough to look fine, a few minutes later there wasn't even enough
light to focus and it came out underexposed:

http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php...San-Francisco/
Natural-Areas/Presidio&PG=3&PIC=15

I know, I need a remote, just can't decide if the expensive Nikon
model is worth it & not sure if the cheap $40 third-party remotes
will give me what I need, or an older simpler used nikon remote... I
suppose an illuminated LCD display could be handy in the dark...
speaking of not reading the manual, I still can't figure out how to
backlight the top LCD on this beast... I don't do much shooting in
extreme darkness.

My Canon Timer remote was easily the best $135 I've spent related to
photogarphy.
Nikon likely makes a similar remote... With it, I can not only trip
the shutter (and prefocus if preferred), but I can tell it how many
frames to take...at what interval of time...and after waiting for a
time I specify-- and how long to hold the shutter open (without
having to hold it myself) up to many hours(!) if necessary--though I
would only suggest using film for such an exposure. This is great
for group shots where you are part of the group, for example,
because it means you can tell it to take 5 or 6 (or 99) shots
without having to walk back over the the the camera each time. It's
also got an illuminated LCD, which makes an awful lot of sense
considering that you'd often use it in dark settings.

Settings/controls include:
-Time until first frame
-Number of frames
-Time between each frame (interval)
-Shutter open time (up to 99 hours+)
-Start/Stop
-Shutter with half/full press
-Lock shutter switch (so you don't have to actually HOLD it down
during extremely long exposures)
-Adjustment wheel
-Ilumination button

Not bad for the $135. Surely Nikon has something simlar.


I've drooled over one of those for some time (I just use the standard
RS-60E3 one), but they have a different connector than my 400D uses...
however, I was just looking over eBay and found a picture of one
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...8686399&fromMa
keTrack=true) that appears to have a mini or sub-mini stereo
plug/jack built right inline to the cable - and as my 400D/RS-60E3
combo uses a standard stereo mini jack/plug, I could easily build an
adapter to plu into the 400D, as all it does via cable is act like a
switch between the various wires (nothing needed from the camera
internals to function) .... hmmmmm.....

Does yours have that jack/plug in the cable?

No it doesn't. That picture looks like some sort of mock-up to me, but
perhaps someone is cobling these together. I don't see why it couldn't
work... Canon definitely doesn't sell one like that. The control unit
pictured is identical, but I've never seen one with a female sub-mini jack
like that. It's acually a pretty good idea if it's legitimate, though
something seems fishy...

--
Images (Plus Snaps & Grabs) by Mark² at:
www.pbase.com/markuson

"Paul Furman" wrote in message
. net...

I know, I need a remote, just can't decide if the expensive Nikon model is
worth it & not sure if the cheap $40 third-party remotes will give me what
I need, or an older simpler used nikon remote... I suppose an illuminated
LCD display could be handy in the dark... speaking of not reading the
manual, I still can't figure out how to backlight the top LCD on this
beast... I don't do much shooting in extreme darkness.

Paul:
See Pg. 5, at the bottom!
Bob

In article , Mark²
wrote:

Ken Lucke wrote:
In article , Mark²
wrote:

Paul Furman wrote:
I've come to notice that doing night shots, my Nikon D200 won't
meter longer than 30 seconds of exposure time. I don't have a
remote release and apparently the only way to exceed 30 seconds is
to hold my finger on the shutter. Is this common behavior for
camera meter systems? Maybe I missed something in the manual?

Here's an example image where the meter read "LO" but it was close
enough to look fine, a few minutes later there wasn't even enough
light to focus and it came out underexposed:


http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php...a/San-Francisc
o/
Natural-Areas/Presidio&PG=3&PIC=15

I know, I need a remote, just can't decide if the expensive Nikon
model is worth it & not sure if the cheap $40 third-party remotes
will give me what I need, or an older simpler used nikon remote... I
suppose an illuminated LCD display could be handy in the dark...
speaking of not reading the manual, I still can't figure out how to
backlight the top LCD on this beast... I don't do much shooting in
extreme darkness.

My Canon Timer remote was easily the best $135 I've spent related to
photogarphy.
Nikon likely makes a similar remote... With it, I can not only trip
the shutter (and prefocus if preferred), but I can tell it how many
frames to take...at what interval of time...and after waiting for a
time I specify-- and how long to hold the shutter open (without
having to hold it myself) up to many hours(!) if necessary--though I
would only suggest using film for such an exposure. This is great
for group shots where you are part of the group, for example,
because it means you can tell it to take 5 or 6 (or 99) shots
without having to walk back over the the the camera each time. It's
also got an illuminated LCD, which makes an awful lot of sense
considering that you'd often use it in dark settings.

Settings/controls include:
-Time until first frame
-Number of frames
-Time between each frame (interval)
-Shutter open time (up to 99 hours+)
-Start/Stop
-Shutter with half/full press
-Lock shutter switch (so you don't have to actually HOLD it down
during extremely long exposures)
-Adjustment wheel
-Ilumination button

Not bad for the $135. Surely Nikon has something simlar.


I've drooled over one of those for some time (I just use the standard
RS-60E3 one), but they have a different connector than my 400D uses...
however, I was just looking over eBay and found a picture of one
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...8686399&fromMa
keTrack=true) that appears to have a mini or sub-mini stereo
plug/jack built right inline to the cable - and as my 400D/RS-60E3
combo uses a standard stereo mini jack/plug, I could easily build an
adapter to plu into the 400D, as all it does via cable is act like a
switch between the various wires (nothing needed from the camera
internals to function) .... hmmmmm.....

Does yours have that jack/plug in the cable?

No it doesn't. That picture looks like some sort of mock-up to me, but
perhaps someone is cobling these together.

The photo looked legit to me, but I didn't examine it with any great
detail, so it's entirely possible.

I don't see why it couldn't
work... Canon definitely doesn't sell one like that.

That's what I thought, as I've looked into them before and they've
never had a picture of one like that. I thought that this was maybe a
new version. There's an idea for themm - make the controller, with
various adapters for the tip, like the universal 120V/DC power supplies
you can buy!

The control unit
pictured is identical, but I've never seen one with a female sub-mini jack
like that. It's acually a pretty good idea if it's legitimate, though
something seems fishy...

Yeah, the response I got from the seller said that the photo was wrong
("Dear Customer, This is a wrong picture, this plug is not divided in
two pieces.")
"

However, it got me thinking that there's no reason I shouldn't be able
to cut off the funky proprietary connector on the end (saving it to
reattach later when I get a 1Ds Mark 47), strip the wires, and solder
on a mini-stero connector, once I've figured out the wire--pin pattern
(which, with only 3 leads, should be a snap, considering I already know
the camera side's requirements). I'd reverse the way that it was/is
shown in that picture, though - the plug would go on the remote's end
and the jack would go on the end with the proprietary connector - to
allow the jury-rigged setup to plug directly into the camera without an
additional adapter.

By yumpin' yimminies, I think I'll give it a go. I'll let you know how
it turns out. Maybe I could sell the damn things :^).

--
You need only reflect that one of the best ways to get yourself a
reputation as a dangerous citizen these days is to go about repeating
the very phrases which our founding fathers used in the struggle for
independence.
-- Charles A. Beard

Ken Lucke wrote:
In article , Mark²
wrote:

Ken Lucke wrote:
In article , Mark²
wrote:

Paul Furman wrote:
I've come to notice that doing night shots, my Nikon D200 won't
meter longer than 30 seconds of exposure time. I don't have a
remote release and apparently the only way to exceed 30 seconds is
to hold my finger on the shutter. Is this common behavior for
camera meter systems? Maybe I missed something in the manual?

Here's an example image where the meter read "LO" but it was close
enough to look fine, a few minutes later there wasn't even enough
light to focus and it came out underexposed:


http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php...a/San-Francisc
o/
Natural-Areas/Presidio&PG=3&PIC=15

I know, I need a remote, just can't decide if the expensive Nikon
model is worth it & not sure if the cheap $40 third-party remotes
will give me what I need, or an older simpler used nikon
remote... I suppose an illuminated LCD display could be handy in
the dark... speaking of not reading the manual, I still can't
figure out how to backlight the top LCD on this beast... I don't
do much shooting in extreme darkness.

My Canon Timer remote was easily the best $135 I've spent related
to photogarphy.
Nikon likely makes a similar remote... With it, I can not only
trip the shutter (and prefocus if preferred), but I can tell it
how many frames to take...at what interval of time...and after
waiting for a time I specify-- and how long to hold the shutter
open (without having to hold it myself) up to many hours(!) if
necessary--though I would only suggest using film for such an
exposure. This is great for group shots where you are part of
the group, for example, because it means you can tell it to take 5
or 6 (or 99) shots without having to walk back over the the the
camera each time. It's also got an illuminated LCD, which makes
an awful lot of sense considering that you'd often use it in dark
settings.

Settings/controls include:
-Time until first frame
-Number of frames
-Time between each frame (interval)
-Shutter open time (up to 99 hours+)
-Start/Stop
-Shutter with half/full press
-Lock shutter switch (so you don't have to actually HOLD it down
during extremely long exposures)
-Adjustment wheel
-Ilumination button

Not bad for the $135. Surely Nikon has something simlar.


I've drooled over one of those for some time (I just use the
standard RS-60E3 one), but they have a different connector than my
400D uses... however, I was just looking over eBay and found a
picture of one
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...8686399&fromMa
keTrack=true) that appears to have a mini or sub-mini stereo
plug/jack built right inline to the cable - and as my 400D/RS-60E3
combo uses a standard stereo mini jack/plug, I could easily build
an adapter to plu into the 400D, as all it does via cable is act
like a switch between the various wires (nothing needed from the
camera internals to function) .... hmmmmm.....

Does yours have that jack/plug in the cable?

No it doesn't. That picture looks like some sort of mock-up to me,
but perhaps someone is cobling these together.

The photo looked legit to me, but I didn't examine it with any great
detail, so it's entirely possible.

I don't see why it couldn't
work... Canon definitely doesn't sell one like that.

That's what I thought, as I've looked into them before and they've
never had a picture of one like that. I thought that this was maybe a
new version. There's an idea for themm - make the controller, with
various adapters for the tip, like the universal 120V/DC power
supplies you can buy!

The control unit
pictured is identical, but I've never seen one with a female
sub-mini jack like that. It's acually a pretty good idea if it's
legitimate, though something seems fishy...

Yeah, the response I got from the seller said that the photo was wrong
("Dear Customer, This is a wrong picture, this plug is not divided in
two pieces.")
"

However, it got me thinking that there's no reason I shouldn't be able
to cut off the funky proprietary connector on the end (saving it to
reattach later when I get a 1Ds Mark 47), strip the wires, and solder
on a mini-stero connector, once I've figured out the wire--pin
pattern (which, with only 3 leads, should be a snap, considering I
already know the camera side's requirements). I'd reverse the way
that it was/is shown in that picture, though - the plug would go on
the remote's end and the jack would go on the end with the
proprietary connector - to allow the jury-rigged setup to plug
directly into the camera without an additional adapter.

By yumpin' yimminies, I think I'll give it a go. I'll let you know
how it turns out.

Please do...though I don't personally have a use for one. Others would.
I really don't see why Canon keeps the sub-mini design. All of their other
DSLRs use the diffent style...
-It's probably just a carry-over thing... but they've used the other disign
since at least the EOS 3. I don't know about before that. Perhaps they
want people like you to see it as another rationale for upgrading to another
body... Who knows...

Maybe I could sell the damn things :^).


--
Images (Plus Snaps & Grabs) by Mark² at:
www.pbase.com/markuson

Paul Furman wrote:
I've come to notice that doing night shots, my Nikon D200 won't meter
longer than 30 seconds of exposure time. I don't have a remote release
and apparently the only way to exceed 30 seconds is to hold my finger
on the shutter. Is this common behavior for camera meter systems?
Maybe I missed something in the manual?

Here's an example image where the meter read "LO" but it was close
enough to look fine, a few minutes later there wasn't even enough
light to focus and it came out underexposed:
http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php&DIR=California/Bay-Area/San-Francisco/Natural-Areas/Presidio&PG=3&PIC=15

I know, I need a remote, just can't decide if the expensive Nikon
model is worth it & not sure if the cheap $40 third-party remotes
will give me what I need, or an older simpler used nikon remote... I
suppose an illuminated LCD display could be handy in the dark...
speaking of not reading the manual, I still can't figure out how to
backlight the top LCD on this beast... I don't do much shooting in
extreme darkness.

Reciprocity failure takes over at long and short exposures for film. I've
found it to be similarly true for digital.

--
Phil

Mark² wrote:
Paul Furman wrote:

I've come to notice that doing night shots, my Nikon D200 won't meter
longer than 30 seconds of exposure time. I don't have a remote release
and apparently the only way to exceed 30 seconds is to hold my finger
on the shutter. Is this common behavior for camera meter systems?
Maybe I missed something in the manual?

Here's an example image where the meter read "LO" but it was close
enough to look fine, a few minutes later there wasn't even enough
light to focus and it came out underexposed:
http://www.edgehill.net/1/?SC=go.php&DIR=California/Bay-Area/San-Francisco/Natural-Areas/Presidio&PG=3&PIC=15

I know, I need a remote, just can't decide if the expensive Nikon
model is worth it & not sure if the cheap $40 third-party remotes
will give me what I need, or an older simpler used nikon remote... I
suppose an illuminated LCD display could be handy in the dark...
speaking of not reading the manual, I still can't figure out how to
backlight the top LCD on this beast... I don't do much shooting in
extreme darkness.

My Canon Timer remote was easily the best $135 I've spent related to
photogarphy.
Nikon likely makes a similar remote... With it, I can not only trip the
shutter (and prefocus if preferred), but I can tell it how many frames to
take...at what interval of time...and after waiting for a time I specify--
and how long to hold the shutter open (without having to hold it myself) up
to many hours(!) if necessary--though I would only suggest using film for
such an exposure. This is great for group shots where you are part of the
group, for example, because it means you can tell it to take 5 or 6 (or 99)
shots without having to walk back over the the the camera each time. It's
also got an illuminated LCD, which makes an awful lot of sense considering
that you'd often use it in dark settings.

Thanks, yeah that does sound useful... it seems like the Nikon unit is
about $165 but maybe I'm remembering wrongly in recoiled fear & loathing.

Settings/controls include:
-Time until first frame
-Number of frames
-Time between each frame (interval)
-Shutter open time (up to 99 hours+)
-Start/Stop
-Shutter with half/full press
-Lock shutter switch (so you don't have to actually HOLD it down during
extremely long exposures)

I believe the third party $40 options mostly have this feature.

-Adjustment wheel
-Ilumination button

Not bad for the $135. Surely Nikon has something simlar.

About your first question... It's normal to have a 30 second limit on even
high-end SLR/DSLRs for auto, or dialed-in exposure. Beyond that, you use
"bulb" setting, which is basically holding it down, as you said. -But of
course you'd never want to actually do that by hand. You need that remote
shutter release.

It wouldn't be that hard to allow up to 9999 seconds in manual mode.
Hmph. I can understand how the meter might not be able to detect light
levels at longer than 30 seconds though.