Plumbing photographs

DanSMeyers wrote:

Great ideas here http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/waterpanel.htm

Yeah, if you want to be electrocuted...look closely.

Dan

If in fact all power runs through the GFI, as indicated in the text, it
shouldn't be a problem.

--
I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz!
-- E. J. Fudd, 1954

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer
Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm
Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.

On 25 May 2004 15:12:32 -0700, (Alexis Neel) wrote:

I have pictures, somewhere, that I think you will find helpful. They
are of one of my many darkrooms I've build over the last 20 years, and
comes from a professional, productive perspective. It might take a
few days to find them, if they aren't packed already (we're moving
back to the states from Europe at the end of June) If I can't find
them, would a detailed drawing do?

Alexis

www.alexisneel.com

Anything is helpful. Due to the size of the undertaking I'm just
trying to save myself some heartache later on.

Ok guys, here is what I came up with. A drawing, with some
explainations, is here (200k file):
http://alexisneel.com/SinkPlumbing.jpg

I tried to explain it as best I could, but if you have any other
questions, just email me. Excuse the crudness of the drawings, but I
think you will get the idea. Everything is copper or brass, except
for the stainless steel flex lines. This is important so you won't
get corrosion later. The lines are painted appropriate colors (with
spray paint) to easily identify which line is which.
I set it up this way with the idea of ease of use, and thus
productivity. It might be overkill for some, but after 30 years of
printing, I hate things to be difficult to use.

Hope this gives you a good idea.

Alexis



McLeod wrote in message . ..
On 25 May 2004 15:12:32 -0700, (Alexis Neel) wrote:

I have pictures, somewhere, that I think you will find helpful. They
are of one of my many darkrooms I've build over the last 20 years, and
comes from a professional, productive perspective. It might take a
few days to find them, if they aren't packed already (we're moving
back to the states from Europe at the end of June) If I can't find
them, would a detailed drawing do?

Alexis

www.alexisneel.com

Anything is helpful. Due to the size of the undertaking I'm just
trying to save myself some heartache later on.

On 26 May 2004 03:01:32 -0700, (Alexis Neel) wrote:

Ok guys, here is what I came up with. A drawing, with some
explainations, is here (200k file):
http://alexisneel.com/SinkPlumbing.jpg

Thanks very much. Good explanation and good idea to be able to
isolate different sections of the plumbing. Some of the diagrams I
have seen include a faucet that is unregulated. Have you ever felt
the need for anything like that?

"McLeod" wrote:

I am building a darkroom after finally moving to a house large enough
to hold one and would appreciate any links to some good pictures of
plumbing panels to go above the sink. I want to keep the plumbing
seperate from the sink for ease of construction and so I can set a
piece of plywood on top of the sink to use it to collect clutter as
well.

Here's a snapshot (116 KB) of my basement sink and water panel. Is this the
type of picture(s) you had in mind? (Sorry for the hotspot on the left.
This was made months ago for a completely different purpose with my wife's
P&S and not a great deal of advance planning.)

http://home1.gte.net/kjnadvor/darkroom/WetSide2.jpg

Hot and cold supply lines enter from the wall between the filters. Each
line first passes upward through its own shut off valve to allow for filter
cartridge changes and other maintenance. All of the fixtures (filters,
regulator, etc.) are back-threaded through the panel and isolated with union
joints so they can be unscrewed and removed directly from the front side
without removing the panel itself.

I routinely shut off the supply lines and bleed the pressure from the pipes
when not using the darkroom. (I'm hoping this will lengthen the lifespan of
my water temperature regulation unit.)

The hot line filter (orange) is left, cold line is right. The supply lines
are then split, allowing for the filtered, but otherwise unregulated, mixing
faucet on the left side of the sink. I find a manually regulated outlet
very handy for equipment washing and sink rinsing.

Automatic temperature regulation is handled by a Hass Intellifaucet K250
(the square black unit below the valves) which is fed by the other side of
the split supply lines. This unit has a single tempered water outlet. I
split this outlet into two separate outlet lines.

The first tempered outlet line drops directly down to the second faucet from
the left. This faucet is double-filtered like the left-hand one, but adds
the attributes of temperature regulation, flow regulation and settable flow
timing, courtesy of the Hass unit.

The second tempered outlet split leads to the third faucet (on the right).
This faucet is shown connected (through an anti-siphon check valve) to a
16x20 Versalab print washer (hiding under the towel on the far right). This
third faucet adds one more additional attribute of water control. It passes
through a water volume flow meter gauge (the upright clear acrylic thingy
above the faucet itself). This gives me a reliable measure of
gallons-per-minutes for the print washer.

In addition, the Versalab washer sits in its own custom-made epoxy overflow
catch basin (hidden by the sink stand and counter in the foreground) that is
designed to be just larger than the washer's outside dimensions. This is
intended to be a last line of defense if something should go terribly wrong
while prints are slow-washing after I go to bed, as it will allow the washer
to completely overflow without submerging my basement.

You may also notice that the entire lengths of both split tempered outlet
lines are covered with black foam pipe insulation. This works to keep the
post-regulated water at its correct temperature until it reaches the
regulated faucets. Also, all controls and gauges have been located at my
personal eye-level for ease of use. Since the flow meter requires input
from below, this choice made for a somewhat convoluted piping layout for the
third faucet. Everything does, however, work perfectly.

As a non-professional hobbyist, this arrangement has worked well for me for
over a year now. I sweated all the copper piping myself without a great
deal of experience and it turned out fine. I even spray-coated the pipes
with a polyurethane overcoat just for aesthetic purposes to keep the new
copper pipes untarnished and shiny over time.

Hope this helps with some additional ideas. I would be happy to make and
post a few close-up photos (without hot spots!), if you feel that might
help. Just let me know.

Ken

I still don't think it's a thinking man's decision to put so many outlets that
close to water (and a spray hose at that!) Why risk it?

Dan

In article ,
(DanSMeyers) wrote:

I still don't think it's a thinking man's decision to put so many outlets that
close to water (and a spray hose at that!) Why risk it?

Dan

A good shock is always a great way to put some life in those
pictures of grandma ;-0
--
Baltimore & DC Large Format User Website

http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

For best results expand this window at least 6" at 1152 x 768 resolution

Unregulated how? In my drawing, there are multiple water valves
(orange colored spots using the orange square reference valve) on each
line, cold and hot (directly from main supply and used for cooling
chemicals down and hot for clean up) and the green, which represents
the mixed 68degree temp. On those valves, I would use a plastic "L"
fitting that screws into the valve, but has the burr on the other side
to hook up plastic water tubing. The only regulated line is the
green, if I understand you correctly. Also with these valves, you
only need to pull the handle 90 degrees to get full water flow (I
rarely used that kind of pressure), making on and off easy and quick
to do, compared to your normal turn faucet type of fixture.

Did that answer your question? If not, don't hesitate to ask again.

Alexis


McLeod wrote in message . ..
On 26 May 2004 03:01:32 -0700, (Alexis Neel) wrote:

Ok guys, here is what I came up with. A drawing, with some
explainations, is here (200k file):
http://alexisneel.com/SinkPlumbing.jpg

Thanks very much. Good explanation and good idea to be able to
isolate different sections of the plumbing. Some of the diagrams I
have seen include a faucet that is unregulated. Have you ever felt
the need for anything like that?

On Wed, 26 May 2004 22:26:10 GMT, "Ken Nadvornick"
wrote:

"McLeod" wrote:

I am building a darkroom after finally moving to a house large enough
to hold one and would appreciate any links to some good pictures of
plumbing panels to go above the sink. I want to keep the plumbing
seperate from the sink for ease of construction and so I can set a
piece of plywood on top of the sink to use it to collect clutter as
well.

Here's a snapshot (116 KB) of my basement sink and water panel. Is this the
type of picture(s) you had in mind? (Sorry for the hotspot on the left.
This was made months ago for a completely different purpose with my wife's
P&S and not a great deal of advance planning.)

http://home1.gte.net/kjnadvor/darkroom/WetSide2.jpg

Hot and cold supply lines enter from the wall between the filters. Each
line first passes upward through its own shut off valve to allow for filter
cartridge changes and other maintenance. All of the fixtures (filters,
regulator, etc.) are back-threaded through the panel and isolated with union
joints so they can be unscrewed and removed directly from the front side
without removing the panel itself.

I routinely shut off the supply lines and bleed the pressure from the pipes
when not using the darkroom. (I'm hoping this will lengthen the lifespan of
my water temperature regulation unit.)

The hot line filter (orange) is left, cold line is right. The supply lines
are then split, allowing for the filtered, but otherwise unregulated, mixing
faucet on the left side of the sink. I find a manually regulated outlet
very handy for equipment washing and sink rinsing.

Automatic temperature regulation is handled by a Hass Intellifaucet K250
(the square black unit below the valves) which is fed by the other side of
the split supply lines. This unit has a single tempered water outlet. I
split this outlet into two separate outlet lines.

The first tempered outlet line drops directly down to the second faucet from
the left. This faucet is double-filtered like the left-hand one, but adds
the attributes of temperature regulation, flow regulation and settable flow
timing, courtesy of the Hass unit.

The second tempered outlet split leads to the third faucet (on the right).
This faucet is shown connected (through an anti-siphon check valve) to a
16x20 Versalab print washer (hiding under the towel on the far right). This
third faucet adds one more additional attribute of water control. It passes
through a water volume flow meter gauge (the upright clear acrylic thingy
above the faucet itself). This gives me a reliable measure of
gallons-per-minutes for the print washer.

In addition, the Versalab washer sits in its own custom-made epoxy overflow
catch basin (hidden by the sink stand and counter in the foreground) that is
designed to be just larger than the washer's outside dimensions. This is
intended to be a last line of defense if something should go terribly wrong
while prints are slow-washing after I go to bed, as it will allow the washer
to completely overflow without submerging my basement.

You may also notice that the entire lengths of both split tempered outlet
lines are covered with black foam pipe insulation. This works to keep the
post-regulated water at its correct temperature until it reaches the
regulated faucets. Also, all controls and gauges have been located at my
personal eye-level for ease of use. Since the flow meter requires input
from below, this choice made for a somewhat convoluted piping layout for the
third faucet. Everything does, however, work perfectly.

As a non-professional hobbyist, this arrangement has worked well for me for
over a year now. I sweated all the copper piping myself without a great
deal of experience and it turned out fine. I even spray-coated the pipes
with a polyurethane overcoat just for aesthetic purposes to keep the new
copper pipes untarnished and shiny over time.

Hope this helps with some additional ideas. I would be happy to make and
post a few close-up photos (without hot spots!), if you feel that might
help. Just let me know.

Ken


Very nice...I can see how it might be good to have an unregulated
faucet and a couple of temp controlled ones. I don't thik I need any
more shots of it, it's all clear to me. I have other questions about
the size of your sink. Is it homemade or bought? Is it big enough?
Do you think an 8 ft sink would be too big or are you a proponent of
the bigger, the better?

Regarding this photo,

http://home1.gte.net/kjnadvor/darkroom/WetSide2.jpg

"McLeod" wrote:

Very nice...I can see how it might be good to have an unregulated
faucet and a couple of temp controlled ones. I don't thik I need any
more shots of it, it's all clear to me. I have other questions about
the size of your sink. Is it homemade or bought? Is it big enough?
Do you think an 8 ft sink would be too big or are you a proponent of
the bigger, the better?

The black main sink is an original "The Sink" model manufactured by Delta.
I believe the current incarnation is called "The Sink II." I'm unsure of
the difference(s). Mine was purchased new when I first purchased my house.
It then "aged to perfection" in my garage rafters for about 12 years before
finally being installed. (Don't ask... It's 6-feet wide with a built-in
backsplash panel and duckboard ribs and is made from ABS plastic.

The sink stand is homemade using standard dimensional lumber. It's main
design purpose is to *fully* support the sink bottom via custom-fitted
plywood sheets, as opposed to the Delta-supplied thin metal frame which I
believe may simply "hang" the sink by its outside edges. So constructed, I
can
easily stand in it without fear of damaging it (I'm 6-foot 6-inches,
218-pounds). This means I have the (tested) ability to insert a standpipe
into the drain and completely fill the sink with water without the weight
causing it to buckle and/or collapse.

Regarding the choice of size, that was primarily limited by the size of the
room. By building a custom epoxy catch basin sink for the Versalab washer,
I was able to move the washer outside of the main sink (technically this was
not necessary, but I felt better doing it this way), thereby reserving the
main sink for trays only. Between the two I therefore have the working
equivalent of an 8-foot sink.

In all honesty, however, I do wish the main sink were bigger. At 6-feet
across I can use up to 10 8x10 trays simultaneously (in two rows, although 8
is a more reasonable limit). But for 11x14 I can fit only 4 trays, for
16x20 only 3 trays and for 20x24 only 2 trays. If you are a two-bath fixer
using a water holding tray (as I am) this is obviously a problem which must
be solved by stacking trays for the larger sizes. Not as convenient, but
still workable. One could also use vertical processors, or a single tray of
fixer, but I prefer not to. So yes, I guess I am a "proponent of the
bigger, the better." Unfortunately, this was the maximum darkroom space I
was able to negotiate from my better half...

Ken