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#1
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Kodak E100S
Hello.
What can you tell me about this film? What can I except from it. Is it better or worse than Provia 100F? Is litter "S" means that this film is more saturated ? MAR |
#3
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Kodak E100S
Bill Tuthill wrote:
wrote: What can you tell me about this film? What can I expect from it. Is it better or worse than Provia 100F? Does letter "S" mean that this film is more saturated ? E100S has been replaced by E100G, so if you have a roll of E100S, it has expired. If not continuously refrigerated, I would discard it. If continuously refrigerated, you can expect a film with more grain than Provia 100F, but nice colors, and less tendency to go blue. S means saturated in comparison to other Kodak films such as EPN. SW is its "warm" counterpart. Here's a comparison with sample scans: I can tell you that E100G has a tendency towards blue. Certain lighting can avoid it ... but it is a very blue biased film overall. Rather than use E100G, I would use Fuji Astia or even Sensia. Rather than use E100GX, I would use Fuji Provia Rather than use E100VS, I would use Fuji Velvia (not 100F) In my opinion you will save money and get better results. -- Thomas T. Veldhouse Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1 |
#4
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Kodak E100S
In article ,
"Thomas T. Veldhouse" wrote: Bill Tuthill wrote: wrote: What can you tell me about this film? What can I expect from it. Is it better or worse than Provia 100F? Does letter "S" mean that this film is more saturated ? E100S has been replaced by E100G, so if you have a roll of E100S, it has expired. If not continuously refrigerated, I would discard it. If continuously refrigerated, you can expect a film with more grain than Provia 100F, but nice colors, and less tendency to go blue. S means saturated in comparison to other Kodak films such as EPN. SW is its "warm" counterpart. Here's a comparison with sample scans: I can tell you that E100G has a tendency towards blue. Certain lighting can avoid it ... but it is a very blue biased film overall. Rather than use E100G, I would use Fuji Astia or even Sensia. That would depend on the intended use. Rather than use E100GX, I would use Fuji Provia That would depend on the intended use. Rather than use E100VS, I would use Fuji Velvia (not 100F) That would depend on the intended use, although 50 versus 100 one stop slower is one stop slower and RVP goes reddish the longer exposed for. YMMV. In my opinion you will save money and get better results. You save money if the results aren't what one wants? -- Reality-Is finding that perfect picture and never looking back. www.gregblankphoto.com |
#5
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Kodak E100S
In article om,
wrote: Hello. What can you tell me about this film? What can I except from it. Is it better or worse than Provia 100F? Is litter "S" means that this film is more saturated ? MAR As Bill says its out of date. My experience with Fuji is if you have a good lab that knows how to process Fuji is a gorgeous film. If the lab is Kodak oriented Kodak get better results. I never liked the E100S film- but did like E100SW. -- Reality-Is finding that perfect picture and never looking back. www.gregblankphoto.com |
#6
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Kodak E100S
"Greg \"_\"" wrote:
In my opinion you will save money and get better results. You save money if the results aren't what one wants? In my opion you get better results. Saving money is an added plus. My experience with E100G is alright, but like it was mentioned, it tends towards blue. The blue cast is very noticable when scanning. -- Thomas T. Veldhouse Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1 |
#7
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Kodak E100S
"Greg \"_\"" wrote:
In article om, wrote: Hello. What can you tell me about this film? What can I except from it. Is it better or worse than Provia 100F? Is litter "S" means that this film is more saturated ? MAR As Bill says its out of date. My experience with Fuji is if you have a good lab that knows how to process Fuji is a gorgeous film. If the lab is Kodak oriented Kodak get better results. I have processed quite a bit of Fuji Sensia and Provia [and one roll of Astia] with Qualex via Costco. While they have been known to damage the film from time to time [that makes me rather upset], the color has been supurb. I can't see why there should be a difference in labs as far as E-6 development goes and color. I think handling and perhaps age of the chemicals and such may differ from lab to lab, but that won't differ from film to film. BTW ... I had the E100G processed by Qualex and it is from there that I concluded that it tends towards blue ... especially noticable when scanned. I never liked the E100S film- but did like E100SW. -- Thomas T. Veldhouse Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1 |
#8
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Kodak E100S
Thomas T. Veldhouse wrote:
I can't see why there should be a difference in labs as far as E-6 development goes and color. The new Fuji 5- and 6-layer slide films (Astia 100F and Velvia 100/100F) seem to require different development times and/or chemical mixtures, and might pollute Kodak slide films in the same line. Or so I have heard. This could explain why E100G would look blue. There's a lot of information about this in the photo.net film Q&A forum. I don't use slide film much, so I did not pay close attention. Even print film processes are not totally standard. Fuji CN-16 generally produces about 5% higher contrast than Kodak C-41. |
#9
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Kodak E100S
Bill Tuthill wrote:
Thomas T. Veldhouse wrote: I can't see why there should be a difference in labs as far as E-6 development goes and color. The new Fuji 5- and 6-layer slide films (Astia 100F and Velvia 100/100F) seem to require different development times and/or chemical mixtures, and might pollute Kodak slide films in the same line. Or so I have heard. This could explain why E100G would look blue. That's BS. It would no longer be straight E-6 chemistry and they could not label it as such. I wasn't able to find anything on a casual google search, and I suspect you may have been reading hear say [or heresy]. -- Thomas T. Veldhouse Key Fingerprint: 2DB9 813F F510 82C2 E1AE 34D0 D69D 1EDC D5EC AED1 |
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