Staple negs to proofs?

I have half an idea that it should be obvious to me why I should *not*
staple my printfile pages to their proofsheets, that other half is saying
that this is an idea whose time has come. Why should I spend hours trying to
reassemble these pairs or reproof when I can't match them up? Any opinions
out there?
-Lew

Lew,
You can sit and as you put your negs into the Print-file holders mark
the back of your proofs with a roll number and neg number. Then put the
proofs into an other print-file print storage page.

or


If your negs are 35mm use either the 357HB or the 356HB pages. These
will hold your negs and a 8x10 proof sheet. For 2 1/4 negs use the
1203HB pages for the same result.

You should be able to get these through any good photographic retail
store or any good internet site.

But staples are a no-no when it comes to either negatives or prints.


Draco

Getting even isn't good enough.

"lew" wrote

I have half an idea that it should be obvious to me why I should *not*
staple my printfile pages to their proofsheets, that other half is saying
that this is an idea whose time has come. Why should I spend hours trying to
reassemble these pairs or reproof when I can't match them up? Any opinions
out there?

Attaching sounds good to me. Tape might be a better choice.
3M makes something called 'library tape' [?] that might
work well, it is the stuff libraries use for reinforcing
the spines of paperback books. IME, plain ole' 'magic' tape
doesn't last if it gets flexed & stressed, in comparison
I have never had library tape fail.

I would think a double pocket x-file page might be a good idea:
a pocket on the front for the proof and pockets on the back
for the negative strips.

Presently I keep the negative pages and the proofs in 3-ring
binders. Things still get way out of order. Maybe a serial #
[date + #] on the back of the proof and the negative page
might make it easier to keep things more orderly. Now how to
keep from putting the wrong strip in the wrong page.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
Fstop timer - http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm

On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 08:53:04 -0400, "lew" had a
flock of green cheek conures squawk out:

I have half an idea that it should be obvious to me why I should *not*
staple my printfile pages to their proofsheets, that other half is saying
that this is an idea whose time has come. Why should I spend hours trying to
reassemble these pairs or reproof when I can't match them up? Any opinions
out there?
-Lew


Use the printfile pages that can hold the negatives and proof sheet.

Double sided tape to tape the proofs to the pages.

Use a 3-ring notebook to keep them together.

Staples will scratch your negatives, no matter how careful you are in
storing the pages.

Stephen

--

I am generally against putting sharp pointy things like staples in close
proximity to my precious (to me anyway) negatives. I put contact sheets,
back to back, in album pages next to the printfile negative pages in binders
that organize my stuff by year and/or subject.

Mike

"Stephen" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 08:53:04 -0400, "lew" had a
flock of green cheek conures squawk out:

I have half an idea that it should be obvious to me why I should *not*
staple my printfile pages to their proofsheets, that other half is saying
that this is an idea whose time has come. Why should I spend hours trying
to
reassemble these pairs or reproof when I can't match them up? Any
opinions
out there?
-Lew


Use the printfile pages that can hold the negatives and proof sheet.

Double sided tape to tape the proofs to the pages.

Use a 3-ring notebook to keep them together.

Staples will scratch your negatives, no matter how careful you are in
storing the pages.

Stephen

--

I use 3 notebooks -

1 - has hole punched plastic negative pages, 7 strips of 5 35mm frames each
2 - has proof sheets in 8.5 x 11 hole punched "page protector" plastic
pouches
3 - has 8.5 x 11 ruled notbook paper with "production notes" - dates, times,
camera, film type, description of frames printed, etc.

All plastic carriers I use are "archival" and pre-punched. I use primarily
35mm, although I also use 4x5 and 2 1/4 square - there are also punched
plastic negative carriers for those sizes as well.

Each roll of film is assigned a unique sequential number (primary key to you
system freaks). The 3 sheets for each film all acrry the same number, so
that contact sheet holder # 121 is related to negative holder # 121 and
production notes #121.

I file 100 of each per set of notebooks ( 1 1/2 in. thcikess books), 3
notebooks per set.

There is no reason you could not use this system in a "1 notebook" system by
filing the negative sheet, the contact print, and the production notes all
as a group on one notebook. I use 3 books because I believe that shuffling
the neagtive sheets to look at contacts could be physically harmful to them,
so putting the contact sheets in a seperate notebooks allows me to rummage
through them without concern for the negatives.

When I find a frame I wish to print in the contact sheet book, I go to the
negative book, open to the sequentially numbered page, and pick out the film
strip with the frame to print. Takes only seconds, and if you are somewhat
studious (aka anal) about promptly filing your work, you will have a
more-or-less chronological history of your work.

I have not yet gone so bonkers as to suggest a computerized database by
frame so I can retrieve all frames with, for example, dogs in them. But it
would be simple. The 23rd frame of 35mm roll #121 could be assigned a number
like "121035" tha would uniquely ID it and allow easy cross reference to the
negative books. So my numbering system would work fine for that purpose.

If I require more than one page per film, all those pages have the same
number. For example, since a page of 35mm negatives contains room for 35
shots (and my Nikon will squeeze 37 out of a roll), I may have to use two
pages for a roll. Each would be labelled as (#121, page 1) and (#121, page
2). Of course, each frame can still have a unique ID regardless of which
page it is on. (#121014 is on page one, #121037 is on page 2) The same
reasoning applies to other sizes.

Even though 4 x 5 shots don't come "in rolls", I use at least a single page
per shooting session (4 negatives per page), even if there is only 1 shot on
the page, and treat exactly as above. That way, the production notes will
correctly reflect the data about the camera, film, and other data.



"Mike King" wrote in message
...
I am generally against putting sharp pointy things like staples in close
proximity to my precious (to me anyway) negatives. I put contact sheets,
back to back, in album pages next to the printfile negative pages in
binders
that organize my stuff by year and/or subject.

Mike

"Stephen" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Oct 2005 08:53:04 -0400, "lew" had a
flock of green cheek conures squawk out:

I have half an idea that it should be obvious to me why I should *not*
staple my printfile pages to their proofsheets, that other half is
saying
that this is an idea whose time has come. Why should I spend hours
trying
to
reassemble these pairs or reproof when I can't match them up? Any
opinions
out there?
-Lew


Use the printfile pages that can hold the negatives and proof sheet.

Double sided tape to tape the proofs to the pages.

Use a 3-ring notebook to keep them together.

Staples will scratch your negatives, no matter how careful you are in
storing the pages.

Stephen

--

Pieter Litchfield wrote:
"... But it would be simple. The 23rd frame of 35mm roll #121 could be
assigned a number
like "121035" tha would uniquely ID it and allow easy cross reference
to the
negative books. So my numbering system would work fine for that
purpose. "

Wouldn't the number be "121023"? That, to me anyway, seems more
logical.

"If I require more than one page per film, all those pages have the
same
number. For example, since a page of 35mm negatives contains room for
35
shots (and my Nikon will squeeze 37 out of a roll), I may have to use
two
pages for a roll. Each would be labelled as (#121, page 1) and (#121,
page
2). Of course, each frame can still have a unique ID regardless of
which
page it is on. (#121014 is on page one, #121037 is on page 2) The
same
reasoning applies to other sizes..."

Now that made sense. I can understand your reasoning and applaud your
hard work in documenting your files. It is a lot better than mine of
shoe boxes and 'hunt and curse'. Using the print file pages I had
mentioned above also helps in keeping track of your inventory of
images. So far everyone here has made some very good suggestions for
lew. I hope that lew can use them and/or tailor them to his/her use.



Draco


Getting even isn't good enough.

lew wrote:

I have half an idea that it should be obvious to me why I should *not*
staple my printfile pages to their proofsheets, that other half is saying
that this is an idea whose time has come. Why should I spend hours trying to
reassemble these pairs or reproof when I can't match them up? Any opinions
out there?
-Lew





Hi Lew,

I do not use contact sheets a lot, but when I do, I just slide them into
the notebook behind the Printfile sheet of negatives. I use the 3-holed
ones and keep them in a notebook with a simple coding system, e.g., 2005
BW 1 indicates it is the first black and white roll processed in year
2005. This is cross-referenced in my film developing notebook, with
information on manner of development. Again, it is referenced in the
print developing notebooks (one for color, one cor B&W) where I would
indicate 2005 BW 1 #23 to indicate which frame, as well as recording all
the settings relative to exposure and development of the print. Medium
format and 35 mm are in the same notebook. Large format negatives get
their own notebook. and are labelled, e.g., 2005 BW45 #1, 2005 BW57 #3.

If you want to have a contact sheet with each roll, buy a Printfile
holder for 8x10s and put it behind each negative holder.

Frankly, I have not found contact sheets very useful. I get more
information looking at the negative through a loupe on a light table.
If I have printed it before, the printing information appears in the
printing notebook so that I can repeat the settings.


Francis A. Miniter

Scrap book tape

Yup, that'll work too. Just don't apply it to the negatives.


Draco


Getting even isn't good enough.