What BULB do you guys use for taking pictures of automotive DIYs?

? "jamesgangnc" ?????? ??? ??????
...
On Aug 2, 9:54 pm, "WW" wrote:
"Brent" wrote in message

...





In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change
the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They
have
their own reflector. WW- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

:Try some outdoor floods. Mioght be a bit hardier. Plus
:a flood may
:work without quiote so high a wattage.
I've seen some very high wattage CFLs used by some of my clients, they are
almost 1' long and, like, 85 W. I don't know if you can get them in the USA.
They are not very expensive, I think like 40 euros, but if you break one
that's money down the drain. There are also excellent CFL spotlights, too
(at least on this side of the pond).


--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

Al Dykes wrote:
In article ,
Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 21:24:49 +0000, Brent wrote:

In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy
lighting conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to
augment the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in
an aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light.
I change the directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't
work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are
hot, they break the filament if you drop or move the light
suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the
"regular" 200W bulbs from ACE?

Have a look here

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Backlight.html


Note that some of those bulbs have operating hour ratings measured
in single-digit hours.


Has anyone tried halogrn worklights?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Yes. I have two of these sets (they were $14.95 when I bought them
IIRC).
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...block Type=G1

They make a lot of light, 500 watts each lamp head, two speeds each,
so the 250-500-750-1000 specification is for a pair (set). For
halogen, a lot of light means a lot of heat.

The idea of a collapsible stand - lamps are at about five feet when
the pole is fully extended - is good, but the execution is lacking:
the "locks" don't, very well, so it takes a firm twist to avoid the
lamps sinking after they are set up.

The legs fold, but not easily. The head bar is removable with just one
pin, yielding a more portable light source, but one that requires an
arm that doesn't tire, or a table for the subject and the lamp.

I'm happy that they are here for emergencies, but the mentioned
shortcomings and the heat mean I find myself looking for other
solutions to lighting challenges.

Did I mention they are - ouch! - hot?

--
Frank ess

In rec.photo.digital Tzortzakakis Dimitris wrote:

? "jamesgangnc" ?????? ??? ??????
...
On Aug 2, 9:54 pm, "WW" wrote:
"Brent" wrote in message
...

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change
the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They
have
their own reflector. WW- Hide quoted text -

:Try some outdoor floods. Mioght be a bit hardier. Plus
:a flood may
:work without quiote so high a wattage.
I've seen some very high wattage CFLs used by some of my clients, they are
almost 1' long and, like, 85 W. I don't know if you can get them in the USA.
They are not very expensive, I think like 40 euros, but if you break one
that's money down the drain. There are also excellent CFL spotlights, too
(at least on this side of the pond).

The big powerful CFLs you mention are possibly those made by
Megaman. In the domestic medium size ES fitting they only go up to
60W, a tungsten light equivalent output of 300W with a better colour
temperature. In GES fitting they go much larger, although all but the
smallest 80W need separate ballast units included in the power
supply. But they take a while to warm up and produce full power
output.

Mains powered tungsten halogens, if you can still find them in
domestic ES fittings, are robust, long lasting, more powerful light
output per watt than ordinary tungsten, a higher colour temperature,
and possibly the nicest flattest colour power spectrum of any electric
source except xenon.

--
Chris Malcolm
Warning: none of the above is indisputable fact.

In rec.photo.digital Brent wrote:
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

Why not use a remote flashgun or two? Much more portable, much more
light, only downside is you'd have to do a bit of learning if you
haven't used that kind of thing before. It can also be cheap if you
buy cheap Hong Kong radio flash triggers and second hand film-era
flashguns, but you have to use those in fully manual flash and camera
modes which involves some more learning.

--
Chris Malcolm
Warning: none of the above is indisputable fact.

In article , RBM wrote:

"Brent" wrote in message
.. .
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change
the directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W bulbs from ACE?

If you want standard incandescent, you want a "rough service" lamp. They
have a more durable filament and can withstand shock and vibration. Don't
get a drip of water on one when it's hot though, it'll explode.

Rough service incandescents produce light in less quantity and of a
yellower color than standard incandescents do. One reason is that the
filament has a different shape that conducts more heat to the bulb's fill
gas. Another is that rough service lamps are generally designed for
longer life expectancy.

You may need to use more lamps or ones of wattage higher than 200 watts.

On the other hand, there are 250W 3200K "photoflood" lamps. They are
known as PH/250A23 or as ECA. They have a multisupported C9 filament like
rough service lamps have. They produce 6,300 lumens, same as a "standard"
300 watt 120V 750 hour incandescent with the usual CC-6 coiled-coil
filament. Their main drawback is a short life expectancy of 30 hours.

Then again, the 300 watt incandescents may be good. Their CC-6
filaments usually have filament supports, while I seem to think that 200W
incandescents with CC-6 filaments lack filament supports.

- Don Klipstein )

In ,
Rich wrote:
On Aug 2, 5:24*pm, Brent beemdoub...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

Enjoy them while you can, before the envirokooks ban incandescents.

The usual 200W incandescents and most 150 watt ones rated 750 hours will
not be affected by the upcoming USA incandescent ban that is scheduled to
take effect in stages from 2012 to 2014. This ban has a lot of
exceptions:

http://members.misty.com/don/incban.html

- Don Klipstein )

On 2010-08-02 14:24:49 -0700, Brent
said:

In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

Check the Flashpoint Cool Light 4 system.


http://www.amazon.com/Flashpoint-Lig.../dp/B003B0UQ32

This is without a stand.

If you need a stand Adorama has both;
http://www.adorama.com/FPCL4K.html

Using this lighting you will probably have to make some white balance
adjustments if you are shooting jpeg only. Shooting RAW will give you
greater flexibility with WB.




--
Regards,

Savageduck

"Brent" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:54:53 -0600, WW wrote:

I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They
have
their own reflector. WW

Are they rugged?


YES ... WW

ktos wrote:
Tulip bulb.
Only when properly cooked.
Raw bulbs only useful for b/w pics.

notbob wrote:
["Followup-To:" header set to alt.home.repair.]

photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light
painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark

I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead
flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the same
color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an hour

Wow! What a great idea. Is 4 secs long enough to get that light
moved to all the places needed. What's the max exposure time?

As long as your camera allows, really as long as you get the exposure right.
You need to experiment a bit to get the shutter speed, aperture and lighting
right.

Here's one of my cat with a 10 second exposu

http://www.ollieclark.com/shuttersto...cat_small.jpeg

This was done with a pretty poor handheld torch. I think you'd get much
better results with a better light source. And cats aren't really the
best subjects for "light painting" because they move...

Cheers,

Ollie