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WTB: Sunpak 120J



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 5th 04, 09:37 PM
Michael R. Lachance
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Default WTB: Sunpak 120J

Im looking for a good dela on a Sunpak 120J. I love this flash, but I cant
find any "great"deals on them used. Ive been using Viv283 and 285's but have
never been 100% happy with them, The 283 is a bit limited (no power
selection) and the 285 has that damned weak foot! (Ive even installed the
replacement feet which also break - just in a different area!) So i just
want to get a 120J and call it a day. Ilike the reflector "look" and have
always been impressed with 120J shots.

Anyone have one they want to sell?

I shooting my MF right now on a basic 500CM, so not TTL needed, as a matter
of fact, id rather not have the 120JTTL, just the plain 120J or perhaps the
Auto, if the metering is good on these flashes.

Thoughts anyone?

Thanks to all for your time and help!

Mike Lachance


  #2  
Old October 6th 04, 05:06 AM
Joe Pucillo
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Posts: n/a
Default

First off the bat - a WTB should go in the marketplace, and you
should leave some method (an email address) to contact you off-
line. But....


Wasn't it Michael R. Lachance who said...
Im looking for a good dela on a Sunpak 120J. I love this flash, but I cant
find any "great"deals on them used. Ive been using Viv283 and 285's but have
never been 100% happy with them, The 283 is a bit limited (no power
selection) and the 285 has that damned weak foot! (Ive even installed the
replacement feet which also break - just in a different area!) So i just
want to get a 120J and call it a day. Ilike the reflector "look" and have
always been impressed with 120J shots.

Anyone have one they want to sell?

I shooting my MF right now on a basic 500CM, so not TTL needed, as a matter
of fact, id rather not have the 120JTTL, just the plain 120J or perhaps the
Auto, if the metering is good on these flashes.

Thoughts anyone?



If you're putting metal feet on the 283/285 and they're STILL
breaking - you're not going to be impressed with the build
quality of a 120J.

The part that goes first on them is the detentes (the clickers)
in the swivel head. If you're laying your flash down a lot
(which you must be, to break so many feet) not only are you going
to see the detentes wear out, but the foot on the 120J seems no
stronger than the 283. (I know, I know that it's a screw mount,
but the foot - let's say the "leg" seems to be as thin as that on
the Vivitars.)

That being said, I love my 120Js. I use them primarily off-
camera, as self-contained studio flashes for location work. Two
or three 120Js on light stands, with radio slaves makes a great
lightweight studio set up which doesn't need an external power
source, though I usually hang a six-volt power pack from each
strobe. Using a multi-clamp, I can also modify the light with an
umbrella on the strobe, swiveling the head around so that the
auto sensor can read the subject. The exposure is generally
dead-on with this set up.

On-camera, it's a nice, inexpensive bare-bulb light. But I
wouldn't expect it to take a lot of abuse. It's just not up to
it.

Another thing, the Vivitar 283 has an variable power accessory
available - the VP-1. It's available for about $20 at most
dealers. You might want to look into that. Also, Holly
Enterprises makes a very heavy duty metal foot for the 283/285
called the Flash Foot One. It has a HH synch socket, and a screw
mount (no hot shoe.) You might look into that, too. In fact, I
have three of them leftover here if you're interested. They're
$30 apiece.

--
Joe Pucillo
Baltimore, Maryland USA

To reply by email, please remove the .xx
  #3  
Old October 6th 04, 05:57 AM
Michael R. Lachance
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Joe thanks for the info, (exactly the kind of info I am looking for!)

....that being said, hey, lighten up (smile of course)...
the foot ive ever broke consistently was on 285s, never on a 283. The 285 is
just too heavy for its foot. The metal replacement foots that have broke
have not been the "metal" sections, but the plastic sections that attach to
the 285 body (thus the "break" simply moves from the foot on OEM to the
base-body attachment on replacement feet)...

Ok, I have heard that the 120J is not the sturdiest unit, and this is why I
wanted some more info on it. I dont, however, plan on getting a hotshoe
mount 120J necissarily, so it may not be an issue.

My 285 broke (the second time, while it was attached to my hassy flash grip,
I often keep the flash on teh grip, and after a mixed lighting shoot last
time around the flash grip was used on and off, in traveling to shoot, and
out and about the flash was set down picked up, attached detached picked up
set down picked up, etc. end of day flash was broken at foot/flash
interface. Plastic just could not take the stress of all that mass/weight.
The foot itself (metal shoe) was intact, but its attachment piece to flash
body was broken.

I love the 285 but am near positive I will enjoy a 120J more so. As Ive said
Ive seen 120J results. Very nice stuff.

Also, any wisdom on the Quantum Qflash? Looks to be very similar?

Thanks again,

Mike


"Joe Pucillo" wrote in message
k.net...
First off the bat - a WTB should go in the marketplace, and you
should leave some method (an email address) to contact you off-
line. But....


Wasn't it Michael R. Lachance who said...
Im looking for a good dela on a Sunpak 120J. I love this flash, but I

cant
find any "great"deals on them used. Ive been using Viv283 and 285's but

have
never been 100% happy with them, The 283 is a bit limited (no power
selection) and the 285 has that damned weak foot! (Ive even installed

the
replacement feet which also break - just in a different area!) So i just
want to get a 120J and call it a day. Ilike the reflector "look" and

have
always been impressed with 120J shots.

Anyone have one they want to sell?

I shooting my MF right now on a basic 500CM, so not TTL needed, as a

matter
of fact, id rather not have the 120JTTL, just the plain 120J or perhaps

the
Auto, if the metering is good on these flashes.

Thoughts anyone?



If you're putting metal feet on the 283/285 and they're STILL
breaking - you're not going to be impressed with the build
quality of a 120J.

The part that goes first on them is the detentes (the clickers)
in the swivel head. If you're laying your flash down a lot
(which you must be, to break so many feet) not only are you going
to see the detentes wear out, but the foot on the 120J seems no
stronger than the 283. (I know, I know that it's a screw mount,
but the foot - let's say the "leg" seems to be as thin as that on
the Vivitars.)

That being said, I love my 120Js. I use them primarily off-
camera, as self-contained studio flashes for location work. Two
or three 120Js on light stands, with radio slaves makes a great
lightweight studio set up which doesn't need an external power
source, though I usually hang a six-volt power pack from each
strobe. Using a multi-clamp, I can also modify the light with an
umbrella on the strobe, swiveling the head around so that the
auto sensor can read the subject. The exposure is generally
dead-on with this set up.

On-camera, it's a nice, inexpensive bare-bulb light. But I
wouldn't expect it to take a lot of abuse. It's just not up to
it.

Another thing, the Vivitar 283 has an variable power accessory
available - the VP-1. It's available for about $20 at most
dealers. You might want to look into that. Also, Holly
Enterprises makes a very heavy duty metal foot for the 283/285
called the Flash Foot One. It has a HH synch socket, and a screw
mount (no hot shoe.) You might look into that, too. In fact, I
have three of them leftover here if you're interested. They're
$30 apiece.

--
Joe Pucillo
Baltimore, Maryland USA

To reply by email, please remove the .xx



 




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