Liquid Emulsion- Glass Coating + exposing...What am I doing wrong here...

I've been doing a lot of emulsion "painting" on various objects..wood,
watercolor papers, metal, etc but haven't mastered glass yet.

Has anyone successfully accomplished this? I use photo formulary's
high contrast soup but I think perhaps I need to use the hardener
after its dried on glass especially...my quagmire, however is that I
don't even get *some* sort of image with glass..I think I should get
at least a little *something*. I wait days for drying on glass and
its definitely dry so...its not like i'm rushing things.

So this leads me to- what sort of background would I need behind the
clear plait glass when exposing? Seems black would make the most
sense...wouldn't it?

Is exposure time something super special with exposure to glass? I've
done test strips of varying times, even up to 30 seconds wide-open to
no avail...

All tips/hints appreciated.

Thanks


Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Since you are posting to ask for help, I wonder if you might also provide
some help. I have had failure of Liquid light to stick to metal. What
"subbing" or prep do you use to get it to stick to metal (I am trying sheet
aluminum).

Thanks, Sam
"Some Dude" wrote in message
...
I've been doing a lot of emulsion "painting" on various objects..wood,
watercolor papers, metal, etc but haven't mastered glass yet.

Has anyone successfully accomplished this? I use photo formulary's
high contrast soup but I think perhaps I need to use the hardener
after its dried on glass especially...my quagmire, however is that I
don't even get *some* sort of image with glass..I think I should get
at least a little *something*. I wait days for drying on glass and
its definitely dry so...its not like i'm rushing things.

So this leads me to- what sort of background would I need behind the
clear plait glass when exposing? Seems black would make the most
sense...wouldn't it?

Is exposure time something super special with exposure to glass? I've
done test strips of varying times, even up to 30 seconds wide-open to
no avail...

All tips/hints appreciated.

Thanks


Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Since you are posting to ask for help, I wonder if you might also provide
some help. I have had failure of Liquid light to stick to metal. What
"subbing" or prep do you use to get it to stick to metal (I am trying sheet
aluminum).

Thanks, Sam
"Some Dude" wrote in message
...
I've been doing a lot of emulsion "painting" on various objects..wood,
watercolor papers, metal, etc but haven't mastered glass yet.

Has anyone successfully accomplished this? I use photo formulary's
high contrast soup but I think perhaps I need to use the hardener
after its dried on glass especially...my quagmire, however is that I
don't even get *some* sort of image with glass..I think I should get
at least a little *something*. I wait days for drying on glass and
its definitely dry so...its not like i'm rushing things.

So this leads me to- what sort of background would I need behind the
clear plait glass when exposing? Seems black would make the most
sense...wouldn't it?

Is exposure time something super special with exposure to glass? I've
done test strips of varying times, even up to 30 seconds wide-open to
no avail...

All tips/hints appreciated.

Thanks


Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Since you are posting to ask for help, I wonder if you might also provide
some help. I have had failure of Liquid light to stick to metal. What
"subbing" or prep do you use to get it to stick to metal (I am trying sheet
aluminum).

Thanks, Sam
"Some Dude" wrote in message
...
I've been doing a lot of emulsion "painting" on various objects..wood,
watercolor papers, metal, etc but haven't mastered glass yet.

Has anyone successfully accomplished this? I use photo formulary's
high contrast soup but I think perhaps I need to use the hardener
after its dried on glass especially...my quagmire, however is that I
don't even get *some* sort of image with glass..I think I should get
at least a little *something*. I wait days for drying on glass and
its definitely dry so...its not like i'm rushing things.

So this leads me to- what sort of background would I need behind the
clear plait glass when exposing? Seems black would make the most
sense...wouldn't it?

Is exposure time something super special with exposure to glass? I've
done test strips of varying times, even up to 30 seconds wide-open to
no avail...

All tips/hints appreciated.

Thanks


Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Try painting the glass black after its exposed and developed
I seem IIRC in the old days there was a process that used
glass as a support media for positive images and black paper was placed
behind them to show the otherwise faint image. The latent image maybe
there just hard to see. I think it was "Ambryotypes" using albumin &
silver as the emulsion.




In article ,
Some Dude wrote:

I've been doing a lot of emulsion "painting" on various objects..wood,
watercolor papers, metal, etc but haven't mastered glass yet.

Has anyone successfully accomplished this? I use photo formulary's
high contrast soup but I think perhaps I need to use the hardener
after its dried on glass especially...my quagmire, however is that I
don't even get *some* sort of image with glass..I think I should get
at least a little *something*. I wait days for drying on glass and
its definitely dry so...its not like i'm rushing things.

So this leads me to- what sort of background would I need behind the
clear plait glass when exposing? Seems black would make the most
sense...wouldn't it?

Is exposure time something super special with exposure to glass? I've
done test strips of varying times, even up to 30 seconds wide-open to
no avail...

All tips/hints appreciated.

Thanks


Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Try painting the glass black after its exposed and developed
I seem IIRC in the old days there was a process that used
glass as a support media for positive images and black paper was placed
behind them to show the otherwise faint image. The latent image maybe
there just hard to see. I think it was "Ambryotypes" using albumin &
silver as the emulsion.




In article ,
Some Dude wrote:

I've been doing a lot of emulsion "painting" on various objects..wood,
watercolor papers, metal, etc but haven't mastered glass yet.

Has anyone successfully accomplished this? I use photo formulary's
high contrast soup but I think perhaps I need to use the hardener
after its dried on glass especially...my quagmire, however is that I
don't even get *some* sort of image with glass..I think I should get
at least a little *something*. I wait days for drying on glass and
its definitely dry so...its not like i'm rushing things.

So this leads me to- what sort of background would I need behind the
clear plait glass when exposing? Seems black would make the most
sense...wouldn't it?

Is exposure time something super special with exposure to glass? I've
done test strips of varying times, even up to 30 seconds wide-open to
no avail...

All tips/hints appreciated.

Thanks


Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

"Sam G" wrote

I have had failure of Liquid light to stick to ... sheet
aluminum.

I have experience with getting things to stick to aluminum, though
not liquid light.

Aluminum is very reactive and the surface of aluminum 'rusts'
instantaneously on contact with air.

Sealing the surface is often the only salvation. Sealing is
done by chemical conversion (anodizing, 'hard coating') or
plating. Anodizing will give the aluminum a frosty appearance.
Look in the yellow pages for an anodizing shop, it is a common
industrial process and is reasonably cheap. Aluminum can be
plated with nickel, giving a chrome appearance.

If a clear anodize is not practical then sealing the surface with
a clear lacquer may help. I would suggest Krylon.

Prep:
* Clean the surface with solvent
* Put on rubber gloves
* Scrub with Bon-Ami and water (NOT Comet & Co.)
* Rinse in distilled water
* Dry in a warm oven

Paint:
* Spray with 3-4 thin coats

Cu
* 300 degree oven, 20 minutes

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

"Sam G" wrote

I have had failure of Liquid light to stick to ... sheet
aluminum.

I have experience with getting things to stick to aluminum, though
not liquid light.

Aluminum is very reactive and the surface of aluminum 'rusts'
instantaneously on contact with air.

Sealing the surface is often the only salvation. Sealing is
done by chemical conversion (anodizing, 'hard coating') or
plating. Anodizing will give the aluminum a frosty appearance.
Look in the yellow pages for an anodizing shop, it is a common
industrial process and is reasonably cheap. Aluminum can be
plated with nickel, giving a chrome appearance.

If a clear anodize is not practical then sealing the surface with
a clear lacquer may help. I would suggest Krylon.

Prep:
* Clean the surface with solvent
* Put on rubber gloves
* Scrub with Bon-Ami and water (NOT Comet & Co.)
* Rinse in distilled water
* Dry in a warm oven

Paint:
* Spray with 3-4 thin coats

Cu
* 300 degree oven, 20 minutes

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

The only thing with that is...Shouldn't I see *some* sort of image
after exposure and dipping the glass in developer? I did test prints
of the emulsion (thinking it was either too old, too cold, or maybe
accidentally exposed) and it worked fine on a manila file folder...I
did NOT use hardener which formulary recommends but I'd be hard
pressed to believe that would prevent me from seeing at least
something...

right?

Thanks!




On Mon, 09 Aug 2004 01:08:58 GMT, Udie Lafing
wrote:

Try painting the glass black after its exposed and developed
I seem IIRC in the old days there was a process that used
glass as a support media for positive images and black paper was placed
behind them to show the otherwise faint image. The latent image maybe
there just hard to see. I think it was "Ambryotypes" using albumin &
silver as the emulsion.




In article ,
Some Dude wrote:

I've been doing a lot of emulsion "painting" on various objects..wood,
watercolor papers, metal, etc but haven't mastered glass yet.

Has anyone successfully accomplished this? I use photo formulary's
high contrast soup but I think perhaps I need to use the hardener
after its dried on glass especially...my quagmire, however is that I
don't even get *some* sort of image with glass..I think I should get
at least a little *something*. I wait days for drying on glass and
its definitely dry so...its not like i'm rushing things.

So this leads me to- what sort of background would I need behind the
clear plait glass when exposing? Seems black would make the most
sense...wouldn't it?

Is exposure time something super special with exposure to glass? I've
done test strips of varying times, even up to 30 seconds wide-open to
no avail...

All tips/hints appreciated.

Thanks


Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

One would think that, try putting some black paper behind the
glass and see if there's a faint image. Nothing to lose (Right?)

Maybe the glass is causing the emulsion for whatever
reason not to stick......has it been degreased with something like
ammonia first? Maybe there's an oily residue? Who knows?


In article ,
Some Dude wrote:

The only thing with that is...Shouldn't I see *some* sort of image
after exposure and dipping the glass in developer? I did test prints
of the emulsion (thinking it was either too old, too cold, or maybe
accidentally exposed) and it worked fine on a manila file folder...I
did NOT use hardener which formulary recommends but I'd be hard
pressed to believe that would prevent me from seeing at least
something...

right?

Thanks!