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#11
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Gym help
Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter
if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film designed for shooting under tungsten lights. Alan Mark Best wrote: Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them coming out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200 zoom. I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry. Trying to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I haven't tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large space, not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try? Any suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to 1000, and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop. |
#12
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Gym help
You did not say what sport your shooting in the gym. If it is basketball
then I can offer you some ideas. Look at my sports shots at www.adroit-images.com if this is what your trying to do then email me direct and I'll coach you through it. Smitty "Alan Kerr" wrote in message ... Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film designed for shooting under tungsten lights. Alan Mark Best wrote: Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them coming out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200 zoom. I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry. Trying to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I haven't tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large space, not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try? Any suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to 1000, and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop. |
#13
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Gym help
actually, tungsten light is warm. you don't need to make it warmer. However,
I don't believe most gyms use tungsten lighting. David "Alan Kerr" wrote in message ... Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film designed for shooting under tungsten lights. Alan Mark Best wrote: Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them coming out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200 zoom. I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry. Trying to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I haven't tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large space, not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try? Any suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to 1000, and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop. |
#14
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Gym help
I stand corrected, tunsten light is 3200K when daylight film is for
shooting at 5500K- it was late at night. I am right about needing an 80A filter to adjust the tungsten light though. Alan It is David wrote: actually, tungsten light is warm. you don't need to make it warmer. However, I don't believe most gyms use tungsten lighting. David "Alan Kerr" wrote in message ... Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film designed for shooting under tungsten lights. Alan Mark Best wrote: Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them coming out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200 zoom. I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry. Trying to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I haven't tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large space, not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try? Any suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to 1000, and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop. |
#15
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Hi Smitty WAS: Gym help
Smitty, how you going mate. I just looked at your website and you have
some terriffic images there. How's the Canon going? I've just bought a Pentax 645N for my landscape work, not sure to do with my Maxxum system as yet, I've bneen thinking I can use my D7 (soon to become an A1)for anything the MF is not suitable for. Are you not using film at all now for work? Alan Smitty wrote: You did not say what sport your shooting in the gym. If it is basketball then I can offer you some ideas. Look at my sports shots at www.adroit-images.com if this is what your trying to do then email me direct and I'll coach you through it. Smitty "Alan Kerr" wrote in message ... Are you taking them under tungsten light? You will need a warming filter if that is the case to compensate for the light or get some film designed for shooting under tungsten lights. Alan Mark Best wrote: Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them coming out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200 zoom. I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry. Trying to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I haven't tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large space, not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try? Any suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to 1000, and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop. |
#16
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Gym help
It doesn't have to do so much with the shutter speed or film speed or
the type of lens that you use. The orange effect is coming from the type of lighting in the environment. I think that incandescent bulbs give off the orange tint that you are referring to. The least expensive way to deal with this is by purchasing a filter for your lens. Go to a reputable camera store and there should be someone knowledgeable enough to help you there. Mark Best wrote: Can anyone give me advice on taking photographs in a gym without them coming out orange? I have a Canon AE-1 Program and I'd like to use an 80-200 zoom. I've tried using 400 or 800 in program mode but the camera chooses super-slow shutter speeds which causes the action to be all blurry. Trying to set shutter speed myself results in orange-tinted pictures. I haven't tried my flash because it just doesn't seem enough for such a large space, not to mention I don't want to blind the atheletes, but should I try? Any suggestions? I'm using Kodak film, tried shutter speeds from 30 to 1000, and I've been letting the camera pick the f-stop. |
#17
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Gym help
Actually he is right, the extra piece of glass and the two extra surfaces to
keep clean will degrade the image. "Mark Hammerschmidt" wrote in message ... Actually you are wrong. UV does not degrade your image. Although it also will not help you indoors. It is a filter to block UV natural light for out door shots in sunlight. Cuts an insignificant amount of light, but cuts a specific temperature of light. The gentleman who suggested using tungsten film is correct. If his photos are turning out orange it is because of tungsten light. If it were fluorescent it would be turning out green. Your slow shutter speed can be compensated for by using a faster speed film. You will get more grain but less blur. Tungsten film for negative film will be hard to find, much more common in positive (slide) film. But if you are shooting it often it may be worth the search. On the other hand, if you are shooting it often you should find a way to get closer to the action so you don't have to waste your shutter speed on long focal lengths. IE Zoom lenses. "Eric Hocking" wrote in message om... Marc 182 wrote in message et... In article , do_not@e- mail.me says... On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:50:22 -0600, wrote: "Mark Best" wrote: orange-tinted pictures Take them back to the place that printed them and ask them to print them so the lighting is more neutral. OR... look into getting a blue filter so that you can change the color temperature of the gym lighting. No way. He's already got problems with blurring. A colored filter would cut even more light. His equipment is not adequate (slow zoom) to use a blue filter. Use tungsten film instead of daylight. That will reduce the orange cast without having to resort to colour filters. -- Eric Hocking www.twofromoz.freeserve.co.uk "A closed mouth gathers no feet" "Ignorance is a renewable resource" P.J.O'Rourke |
#18
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Gym help
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 06:45:34 GMT, -xiray- wrote:
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:50:22 -0600, wrote: "Mark Best" wrote: orange-tinted pictures Take them back to the place that printed them and ask them to print them so the lighting is more neutral. OR... look into getting a blue filter so that you can change the color temperature of the gym lighting. That's the trouble--every gym I've seen is lit with fluorescent lights, and we all know what a problem it is to get any kind of decent color balance with these. Your best bet is to go with your own flash, and not the one on the camera, either. Go with a big portable unit that will allow you to bounce if necessary from the light-colored interior, and don't skimp on the watt-seconds since you'll need serious power with a large open area like that. This should give your shots a nice natural look, and the color balance will be right on. |
#19
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Gym help
On Sat, 24 Jan 2004 07:32:11 GMT, "Mark Hammerschmidt"
wrote: Actually you are wrong. UV does not degrade your image. Although it also will not help you indoors. It is a filter to block UV natural light for out door shots in sunlight. Cuts an insignificant amount of light, but cuts a specific temperature of light. The gentleman who suggested using tungsten film is correct. If his photos are turning out orange it is because of tungsten light. If it were fluorescent it would be turning out green. Your slow shutter speed can be compensated for by using a faster speed film. You will get more grain but less blur. Tungsten film for negative film will be hard to find, much more common in positive (slide) film. But if you are shooting it often it may be worth the search. On the other hand, if you are shooting it often you should find a way to get closer to the action so you don't have to waste your shutter speed on long focal lengths. IE Zoom lenses. So-called "UV" filters do little more than the glass of the lenses they are used on, but of course they at least afford innocuous protection to the front element. Haze filters are another matter, they can effectively cut the light off at near UV, or even the more extreme ones (like the 2A) will eliminate UV altogether (even UVA). I've always believed that a test is worth 1000 opinions. Take your "UV" filter and interpose it between a fluorescent sample and a common blacklight, then see how much good it does. Then do the same thing with a haze filter and let us know. When shooting fluorescent mineral specimens, a very aggressive UV cut is needed to prevent the high ambient ultraviolet from creating a strong bluish cast and fouling up the color. This is the case also for digital cameras. For this application a Kodak 2A haze (also Vivitar made these) is ideal, and the slight yellowish cast it imparts can easily be adjusted out in postprocessing if desired. No other filter I'm aware of is as effective in eliminating unwanted UV. Older cameras with simple uncoated lenses were relatively transparent to near UV, and for these some form of "UV" filter might show a visible improvement. |
#20
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Gym help
Or, buy a tungsten film rated at 800/1600 ASA and "push" it to 3200ASA when
YOU develope it, yourself. There are many kits available to develope your own color slides, and they usually contain instructions on how to "push" your film. Hope this helps David "-xiray-" wrote in message ... On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 05:50:22 -0600, wrote: "Mark Best" wrote: orange-tinted pictures Take them back to the place that printed them and ask them to print them so the lighting is more neutral. OR... look into getting a blue filter so that you can change the color temperature of the gym lighting. |
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