How many prints per gallon of ...

I don't see a how many prints/rolls per gallon working/stock recommendation
in The Darkroom Cookbook, 2ed. I use the one I find in my Kodak Master
Darkroom Data guide... instead when I can match up the formulae. Is there a
good rule of thumb to follow?

Rules of thumb:

80 sq. inches of film per 250 ml developer. The developer
can be reused immediately one time, increasing the time by ~10%.
Discard after use.

For replenished systems remove old developer and add 1 1/2 oz of
replenisher per 80 sq. inches such that the volume of developer is
constant.

See the manufacturer's data sheets for definitive information.

80 sq. inches = one 35mm 36 exposure cassette,
one roll of 120
four 4x5s
two 5x7s
one 8x10

or anything that makes a contact proof on a sheet of 8x10.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com

"Lew" wrote in message
...
I don't see a how many prints/rolls per gallon
working/stock recommendation in The Darkroom Cookbook, 2ed.
I use the one I find in my Kodak Master Darkroom Data
guide... instead when I can match up the formulae. Is there
a good rule of thumb to follow?

Developer, fixer or what? Also, if developer, print or
film?


--
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

Lew wrote:
I don't see a how many prints/rolls per gallon working/stock recommendation
in The Darkroom Cookbook, 2ed. I use the one I find in my Kodak Master
Darkroom Data guide... instead when I can match up the formulae. Is there a
good rule of thumb to follow?

I always use film developer one-shot.
Paper developer (I use something like D-72, but with benzotriazole instead
of KBr) I can use all day. When I use Amidol paper developer, I quit after 3
or 4 hours.

I use Indicator Stop Bath on prints, and dump it when it starts to get a
little dark. I never let it get blue. When using Amidol, I use SB-1 and toss
it when it gets a little color or when I dump the developer. Indicator stop
bath I filter through a new cotton ball and put it back in the bottle. For
Negatives, I use SB-5 one-shot.

For fixer, I use F-5 for both film and paper, in two-bath setup. I use
separate sets of fixer for negatives and paper, and I count the sheets. I
let it get up to about 80% of what Kodak say you can get, and then dump it.

--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
/V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org
^^-^^ 17:15:01 up 25 days, 9:06, 4 users, load average: 4.34, 4.62, 4.58

Sorry, I'm referring to developers.
"Richard Knoppow" wrote in message
m...

"Lew" wrote in message
...
I don't see a how many prints/rolls per gallon working/stock
recommendation in The Darkroom Cookbook, 2ed. I use the one I find in my
Kodak Master Darkroom Data guide... instead when I can match up the
formulae. Is there a good rule of thumb to follow?

Developer, fixer or what? Also, if developer, print or film?


--
--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

I use D72/benzotriazole too... but "all day"? How many 8x10 equivalents are
you talking about?
Also.. do you really notice any difference with Amidol? I thought
differences were only apparent back in the day with high silver content
papers

"Jean-David Beyer" wrote in message
news
Lew wrote:
I don't see a how many prints/rolls per gallon working/stock
recommendation in The Darkroom Cookbook, 2ed. I use the one I find in my
Kodak Master Darkroom Data guide... instead when I can match up the
formulae. Is there a good rule of thumb to follow?
I always use film developer one-shot.
Paper developer (I use something like D-72, but with benzotriazole
instead of KBr) I can use all day. When I use Amidol paper developer, I
quit after 3 or 4 hours.

I use Indicator Stop Bath on prints, and dump it when it starts to get a
little dark. I never let it get blue. When using Amidol, I use SB-1 and
toss it when it gets a little color or when I dump the developer.
Indicator stop bath I filter through a new cotton ball and put it back in
the bottle. For Negatives, I use SB-5 one-shot.

For fixer, I use F-5 for both film and paper, in two-bath setup. I use
separate sets of fixer for negatives and paper, and I count the sheets. I
let it get up to about 80% of what Kodak say you can get, and then dump
it.

--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
/V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org
^^-^^ 17:15:01 up 25 days, 9:06, 4 users, load average: 4.34, 4.62, 4.58

Lew wrote:
I use D72/benzotriazole too... but "all day"? How many 8x10 equivalents are
you talking about?
10 or 20 at most in 1/2 gallon of 1+2 working solution. I usually get tired
of printing at about that point.

Also.. do you really notice any difference with Amidol? I thought
differences were only apparent back in the day with high silver content
papers

It depends on the paper. I seldom use it now because it requires about one
stop more exposure, and the developing solution does not last all day.




--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
/V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939.
/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org
^^-^^ 08:15:01 up 26 days, 6 min, 3 users, load average: 4.45, 4.29, 4.28