Looking for a carry-around camera

dj NME wrote:

(Collin Brendemuehl) wrote in message
. com... snip

What other options might there be for inexpensive carry-arounds?

Budget: $100us.
Other: I prefer a single-coated lens over uncoated.

What about getting a Kiev 60 or 6C?
They are pretty cheap on eBay and usualy come with a TTL prism and
nifty bag/case.

I think you missed where he said:

"... reasonably compact and
modest in weight."

I love my Kievs but they are neither of those! :-)
--

Stacey

see http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/weights.html for camera weights guidance ;-)

the most compact MF/LF camera weighing under 2 lbs, featuring automatic
exposure (adjustable +/- 2 stops) and rangefinder focusing, folding up
into jacket pocket size, with a modern lens design, and often available
for $5-10 in garage sales or online is one of the polaroid cameras - esp.
if you use the positive (print)/negative (for darkroom) films with it ;-)
When traveling, a bonus is you can give away the prints to make friends
and keep the negatives for reprints ;-) see mf/polaroid.html and
mf/budgetlf.html pages ;-) Of course, costs per print may add over time
;-)

grins bobm
--
************************************************** *********************
* Robert Monaghan POB 752182 Southern Methodist Univ. Dallas Tx 75275 *
********************Standard Disclaimers Apply*************************

Stacey wrote:

db wrote:

Try an old Leica

Hmm they said they already have 35mm and were looking for compact medium
format. Did leica make med format cameras at one time for him to buy?

Oh yes, see http://www.asc.upenn.edu/usr/cassidy/leica-h/ for details.
Lightweight and fits the given budget ;-)

-- Lassi

William Mutch wrote:


It is *possible* ( but a monumnetal pain in the ass) to use the
camera by sacrificing a roll of film to determine by experiment a table
of degrees of film advance knob winding for each frame of 12.

Or just use the red window on the back of the camera. This will -not- fog
film like some people believe. I have several old folders that have dead
counters that have been converted to red window counters.

--

Stacey

In article ,
says...

"William Mutch" wrote in message
ell.edu...
In article ,
says...

You are unlikely to find a worthwhile Ikonta for under a hundred.
If you do, be advised that they have a "glass gear" in the film
transport/frame counter mechanism and there are no spare parts left in
the world for a repairman to install.

Do you have a lead on pictures and dimensions of this gear?



I still have about four of them, damaged beyond servicability,
omewhere in my junker repair parts box. The gear is ripsaw toothed, a
ratchet, rather than symmetrical; about 15mm in diameter, 1.7 mm thick
and mounted by a swage fit to a plate also mounting the pawl and fits
under the frame counter dial inside the rangefinder assembly housing.
The Ikonta repair experts used to be a company called K&H Camera
Repair which used to advert in Shutterbug. They may still be in
business, but last I enquired had no more of these gears.
It is *possible* ( but a monumnetal pain in the ass) to use the
camera by sacrificing a roll of film to determine by experiment a table
of degrees of film advance knob winding for each frame of 12. and then
keep track of the frame numbers in your head. I did this for a while
until I got a good Rollie and retired the poor Ikonta.

Andrew Price wrote:

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 17:01:50 +0000, Stacey wrote:

Or just use the red window on the back of the camera. This will -not- fog
film like some people believe. I have several old folders that have dead
counters that have been converted to red window counters.

Now if only that could be done with P-6s with dead counters (I've had
three to date) ...


Have you tried:

http://www.geocities.com/kievgurl/pentaconfix.html

This winding technique has 2 of my "dead" P-6's working fine now with
nothing other than changing the way I wind them. Basically you just
continue to hold down the shutter release during the first quarter of the
stroke then release and finish the wind stroke. It's easy once you get the
hang of it and solves the spacing issues a lot of these have.
--

Stacey

"William Mutch" wrote in message
ell.edu...

Do you have a lead on pictures and dimensions of this gear?



I still have about four of them, damaged beyond servicability,
omewhere in my junker repair parts box. The gear is ripsaw toothed, a
ratchet, rather than symmetrical; about 15mm in diameter, 1.7 mm thick
and mounted by a swage fit to a plate also mounting the pawl and fits
under the frame counter dial inside the rangefinder assembly housing.
[...]

Gosh, if you could make an exact description of that part, possibly scan it
as well (or ideally have a CAD rendering made of it), maybe some saint will
make some replacement parts. Not me.

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 17:01:50 +0000, Stacey wrote:

Or just use the red window on the back of the camera. This will -not- fog
film like some people believe. I have several old folders that have dead
counters that have been converted to red window counters.

Now if only that could be done with P-6s with dead counters (I've had
three to date) ...

Stacey wrote:

William Mutch wrote:


It is *possible* ( but a monumnetal pain in the ass) to use the
camera by sacrificing a roll of film to determine by experiment a table
of degrees of film advance knob winding for each frame of 12.

Or just use the red window on the back of the camera. This will -not- fog
film like some people believe. I have several old folders that have dead
counters that have been converted to red window counters.

Many folders came with the red window from the factory...

BTW, with panchromatic and colour films there's no reason to make the
window red. It makes sense to cover the hole with something to prevent
dirt entering the body, but any transparent colour will do. Or a plug.

-- Lassi

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 20:35:43 +0000, Stacey wrote:

Have you tried:

http://www.geocities.com/kievgurl/pentaconfix.html

This winding technique has 2 of my "dead" P-6's working fine now with
nothing other than changing the way I wind them. Basically you just
continue to hold down the shutter release during the first quarter of the
stroke then release and finish the wind stroke. It's easy once you get the
hang of it and solves the spacing issues a lot of these have.

Thanks Stacey - I knew about that workaround, but strange as it may
seem, I never had a problem with film spacing with any of my P-6s.

Where some of them *really* had me foaming at the mouth was the actual
film counter indicator itself, which would either:

- not show anything at all (reset itself with an unmarked zone of the
disk showing, then not advance with the film)

or

- reset itself to around "8" (rather than zero).

The cameras all took excellent, evenly spaced pictures, but it was not
being able to see at a glance "where I was", and therefore having to
keep track of the film advance by memory, which annoyed me intensely.