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#12
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thx for the detailed reply Roger but this is more for fun at this
point. I may not or may choose to upgrade to a DLR later on with a higher end tele lense. I managed to ger a few decent wildlife pics with a Fuji s3000 4mp 6x optical for the past couple of years. Your shots are really nice by the way. Nice work. |
#13
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wrote in message ups.com... Ok, I am looking at two cameras. They will be primarily for outdoor shooting of landscapes, wildlife etc. This is just for personal enjoyment. The cameras: Fuji e550 6 MP 4x zoom Fuji s5100 4 MP 10x zoom One camera has the longer zoom, one has higher megapixels. For shots of eagles, elk etc, and landscapes, which camera will suit my purposes better? I read a review at Stevesdigicams which states the digital zoom on the e550 actual does not hurt image quality at all, which is interesting. The review said you could get another 1.4x at 6 megapixel mode, giving the camera an actual zoom of 5.4x. So lets say you have captured an eagle with both the e550 and the s5100. Would I in effect be able to get as good of a picture as the s5100 by digitally zooming into the photo I took on the e550 in Photoshop? Would the 6 megapixel clarity of the e550 allow me to zoom in and get as nice of a shot as a 10x zoom 4 megapixel? Thanks for any help, hints, etc. You need to know what the maximum aperture will be when shooting at the 10X tele end of that lens. In most cases, this means you're shooting with a tiny aperture...meaning you need slow shutter speeds...meaning animal motion blur is going to disappoint you. If the maximum aperture is smaller than 5.6 (a bigger number means a smaller aperture), then you'll have to shoot in fairly bright light to freexze motion...and bright light is NOT the best time to find/shoot wild-life. A lower-res, but SHARP image will beat a high res, but BLURRY image (due to slow shutter) every time. |
#14
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I just got back from a vacation in New Mexico where I took a lot of
mountain pictures. I was using a Canon S100 2x zoom. 1st problem I had was most of the pictures of the mountains were too far away, because even at 2x optical zoom the image was not the same size as the eye sees it. In my 35mm camera about 55mm is about normal size as my eye see it. So things looked further away in the picture then with my necked eye. Which resulted in me having to crop the image with software to get the picture I originally wanted which cost resolution. So for the scenes I think you would want both optical zoom to get the image close to the picture as you see it and pixels so if you crop you still get a decent amount of resolution to print and see the objects you were photographing. Based on that I bought an E550. The 4x zoom although Fuji says its equivalent to a 130mm 35mm equivalent lens only looks about the same to me as my 35mm cameras 55mm lens. In other words, if I look through the view finder zoomed 4x and look at the scene just above the eye piece the distance looks about the same. However I can crop the picture using the 6mp without loosing much resolution. You can also use the multiple shot trick. Using 4x zoom shoot 2 or 4 slightly overlapping pictures, which gives you a very wide angle and combine them with software to get a high MP wide angle finished shot. The 2nd thing is that the E550 can take an optional Telephoto converter lens and wide angle converter. I don't know about the S5100 wrote in message ups.com... thx for the detailed reply Roger but this is more for fun at this point. I may not or may choose to upgrade to a DLR later on with a higher end tele lense. I managed to ger a few decent wildlife pics with a Fuji s3000 4mp 6x optical for the past couple of years. Your shots are really nice by the way. Nice work. |
#15
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I just got back from a vacation in New Mexico where I took a lot of
mountain pictures. I was using a Canon S100 2x zoom. 1st problem I had was most of the pictures of the mountains were too far away, because even at 2x optical zoom the image was not the same size as the eye sees it. In my 35mm camera about 55mm is about normal size as my eye see it. So things looked further away in the picture then with my necked eye. Which resulted in me having to crop the image with software to get the picture I originally wanted which cost resolution. So for the scenes I think you would want both optical zoom to get the image close to the picture as you see it and pixels so if you crop you still get a decent amount of resolution to print and see the objects you were photographing. Based on that I bought an E550. The 4x zoom although Fuji says its equivalent to a 130mm 35mm equivalent lens only looks about the same to me as my 35mm cameras 55mm lens. In other words, if I look through the view finder zoomed 4x and look at the scene just above the eye piece the distance looks about the same. However I can crop the picture using the 6mp without loosing much resolution. You can also use the multiple shot trick. Using 4x zoom shoot 2 or 4 slightly overlapping pictures, which gives you a very wide angle and combine them with software to get a high MP wide angle finished shot. The 2nd thing is that the E550 can take an optional Telephoto converter lens and wide angle converter. I don't know about the S5100 "MarkČ" mjmorgan(lowest even number wrote in message news:ApSXd.195882$0u.136853@fed1read04... wrote in message ups.com... Ok, I am looking at two cameras. They will be primarily for outdoor shooting of landscapes, wildlife etc. This is just for personal enjoyment. The cameras: Fuji e550 6 MP 4x zoom Fuji s5100 4 MP 10x zoom One camera has the longer zoom, one has higher megapixels. For shots of eagles, elk etc, and landscapes, which camera will suit my purposes better? I read a review at Stevesdigicams which states the digital zoom on the e550 actual does not hurt image quality at all, which is interesting. The review said you could get another 1.4x at 6 megapixel mode, giving the camera an actual zoom of 5.4x. So lets say you have captured an eagle with both the e550 and the s5100. Would I in effect be able to get as good of a picture as the s5100 by digitally zooming into the photo I took on the e550 in Photoshop? Would the 6 megapixel clarity of the e550 allow me to zoom in and get as nice of a shot as a 10x zoom 4 megapixel? Thanks for any help, hints, etc. You need to know what the maximum aperture will be when shooting at the 10X tele end of that lens. In most cases, this means you're shooting with a tiny aperture...meaning you need slow shutter speeds...meaning animal motion blur is going to disappoint you. If the maximum aperture is smaller than 5.6 (a bigger number means a smaller aperture), then you'll have to shoot in fairly bright light to freexze motion...and bright light is NOT the best time to find/shoot wild-life. A lower-res, but SHARP image will beat a high res, but BLURRY image (due to slow shutter) every time. |
#16
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Hi -
For enlarging to 13x19 or something similar, the $200 scope just is not going to compare to a serious telephoto. Also, when it comes to getting action shots, blurring backgrounds and so on, what you pay for your kit does matter. There *is* a reason most of the top wildlife photographers in the world do use $10k+ worth of kit. To the OP: (a) I have a *very* hard time believing that the digital zoom on a P&S "does not affect quality at all." (b) for wildlife, you really should think of getting an SLR or DSLR - use it in auto mode if you have to, but the response time of a DSLR simply *cannot* be matched by a compact digicam. By the same token, no single lens will give you a good wide angle field of view AND a long telephoto reach. I know you said this is just for fun, so it is your all - but before you decide, you may just want to look at a DSLR and how easy it is to use in full auto mode. Cheers, Vandit |
#17
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VK wrote:
[] To the OP: (a) I have a *very* hard time believing that the digital zoom on a P&S "does not affect quality at all." Under some limited circumstances digital zoom can actually improve the quality because: - the focussing and exposure may be more accurate - the JPEG compression will have less effect on the lower resolution image. This can apply when you use, for example, a 2:1 zoom and the central e.g. 1024 x 768 pixels of the image are interpolated to 2048 x 1536 pixels before being JPEG compressed. (I have confirmed this on a Nikon 990 using Basic JPEG compression). David |
#18
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On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 17:16:15 GMT, "David J Taylor"
wrote: VK wrote: [] To the OP: (a) I have a *very* hard time believing that the digital zoom on a P&S "does not affect quality at all." Under some limited circumstances digital zoom can actually improve the quality because: - the focussing and exposure may be more accurate - the JPEG compression will have less effect on the lower resolution image. This can apply when you use, for example, a 2:1 zoom and the central e.g. 1024 x 768 pixels of the image are interpolated to 2048 x 1536 pixels before being JPEG compressed. (I have confirmed this on a Nikon 990 using Basic JPEG compression). This needs to be qualified: A digital zoom is better than no zoom at all, but never as good as an optical zoom. A digital zoom *can be* better than a digital crop/zoom performed later in software. This is because the camera has access to RAW data from the sensor before JPEG compression that your expensive computer software is missing. -- Owamanga! http://www.pbase.com/owamanga |
#19
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"Owamanga" wrote in message ... On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 17:16:15 GMT, "David J Taylor" wrote: VK wrote: [] To the OP: (a) I have a *very* hard time believing that the digital zoom on a P&S "does not affect quality at all." Under some limited circumstances digital zoom can actually improve the quality because: - the focussing and exposure may be more accurate - the JPEG compression will have less effect on the lower resolution image. This can apply when you use, for example, a 2:1 zoom and the central e.g. 1024 x 768 pixels of the image are interpolated to 2048 x 1536 pixels before being JPEG compressed. (I have confirmed this on a Nikon 990 using Basic JPEG compression). This needs to be qualified: A digital zoom is better than no zoom at all, but never as good as an optical zoom. A digital zoom *can be* better than a digital crop/zoom performed later in software. This is because the camera has access to RAW data from the sensor before JPEG compression that your expensive computer software is missing. But a digital zoom is not better than a RAW image which is later converted to a TIFF and then cropped using software in your PC. Also, by cropping with the PC you have full control over framing the crop/zoom. That is much more control than you have when trying to frame a digital zoom of a flying bird or running deer with the camera. Ron |
#20
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Owamanga wrote:
[] This needs to be qualified: A digital zoom is better than no zoom at all, but never as good as an optical zoom. A digital zoom *can be* better than a digital crop/zoom performed later in software. This is because the camera has access to RAW data from the sensor before JPEG compression that your expensive computer software is missing. Yes, optical zoom is much better. Any improvement from digital zoom is slight at best, and I would only recommend unzoomed or 2:1 (exactly) digital zoom under the circumstances I indicated. David |
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